engifineer

You are correct that lack of fluid or air in the lines would cause a disengagement issue vs it slipping. Spring force in the clutch is what holds the engagement.

It could be that you were slipping more than you realized and got it hot and glazed it a bit. And normally it will come back from that. If you are not able to load it heavilly in a high gear and reproduce it, then that may have been it. It could also be an issue with some of the fingers on the clutch but that should be causing it to happen more of the time.

Did you replace the clutch last time or did someone else? I am thinking about it binding and causing it to be slow to re-engage when you release the pedal, so things like if the splines were cleaned and greased and if the throwout bearing were greased properly and with the correct type of grease. But, you should notice it becoming more difficult to press the pedal if this were the cause.

For now, assuming the pedal feels nice and free, I would keep driving it and observe to see if it comes back. As far as free play, there should be a very small amount. You do not want to over tigthen the rod and cause it t never completely disengage. You want to remove all freeplay then dial it back just a tad to allow a very small amount to be safe. But, if there is any free play at all now, then that adjustment is not the cause of it slipping on you like this.

B serious

So...go to your event.

If it starts consistently slipping, back off so you can make it home.

If you trailered the car then don't back off. As long as it can still get on the trailer, you're fine.

Why over think this?

Shift9303

I had a shop do the clutch last time. I generally try to do most of the work myself however doing the clutch is a bit too much for me without a lift and in a one car garage attached to my apartment. Watching the DIY Guy guide It doesn't look too difficult, just lots of steps and without proper leverage under the car it looks like a PITA for me as a smaller guy solo.


Next event is up at Autobahn and I'm 4 hrs out. I don't have a tow vehicle for the time being so I have to drive my car there. I'd rather not get stranded there if the clutch shits the bed too hard. I do desperately need a tow rig but I live in an apartment right now and don't have space to store a trailer. That said I got confused and this event isn't with NASA and is only a single day (NASA is in September), so maybe it would be a good feeler since if the clutch goes I'm losing less than 1 day vs a whole weekend if it takes a crap on the first day of a double header.

B serious

All your questions are focusing too much on whether or not your clutch is ok. Nobody knows (including you), and you don't want to test the clutch because you're worried about the cops.

You're focusing on an unsolvable problem which doesn't need solving.

Instead, just fast forward to the part where you solve your problem.

Meaningful criteria:
You want to go to your event.
You don't want your clutch to fail.
You don't want to pay for a replacement in case you're replacing it too soon.

A couple of possible reasonable options and their consequences...

Option 1.
Go to your event. Have fun. Be mindful of the clutch. It starts consistent slipping, back off. You'll be fine to make it home, 4hrs on the highway. Super easy.

Yes, it will ruin 1 event out of your calendar.

Or...maybe your clutch shits out on your way home. Oh no!! Youre stranded within civilization and you pay a couple hundred for a tow.

Neither of those are the end of the world scenarios.

To mitigate your risk, be smart. Keep your phone charged and buy a AAA membership for $50/yr.

Thie above is the option I would pick.

Option 2:
Find a reputable shop to replace the clutch. Pay $800-1K in genuine Honda parts. Pay $500-1K in labor.

You're out about $2K max. In a few months, you probably won't even remember spending the money.

B serious

Maintain your fluid though. It has nothing to do with your clutch slipping or not slipping. But always be maintaining.

Clutch and brake fluid absolutely needs to be flushed or swapped every 2 years or sooner.

Shift9303

Any other way I can test it besides pulling through VTEC at a high gear, testing stall and 1st gear slip? Car functions normally for the aforementioned as above.

Looks like my Autobahn plans conveniently just dipped too because my buddy can't make it. Back up plan is now Gateway which is 20 minutes away from me so there goes my distance reservations.

engifineer

Did you end up moving across the state, or are you still near KC? I am thinking you did end up moving thus, Autobahn and stuff but thought I would ask. If over my way I could help look at it and in the worst case (needing a clutch) would be happy to help install it in my shop. No lift, but I have done 3 of these on jack stands

B serious

To test the clutch, you don't need to get to redline.

If you cruise in 3rd gear at 3K RPM and then aggressively tip in (stomp on) the throttle, you'll find out whether the clutch slips or not. By about 6 or 7K RPM, if you haven't detected slip, you're fine.

I'm positive the cop will understand. Or they'll throw your ass in the zoo for life. Who knows.

engifineer

Yep, I even have tested a Saturn SC1 clutch roughly the same way years ago (sans the 7000 rpm part :P) and was able to create slip in a worn but not dead clutch. Our car can produce enough power this way to make the same thing happen

windhund116

The common worn clutch complaints are, "My car doesn't accelerate as it used to. It revs, but it stays the same MPH." And "I can't accelerate up a hill like I used to."