deepee

i was working on the slave cylinder mod last week. i got the delay valve out and all and lined up the ball joint to the fork under the black rubber piece properly (I looked and it lined up). i went back in the car and tried pumping the clutch to bleed, but the clutch had no pressure! if you push down, it'll stay down and not pop back up. so i asked around and all everyone is saying it to line up the ball joint with the fork properly and bleed properly.

ok...bleeed? how do i bleed the clutch when it's not 'pumping' ? i've done bunch and bunch of timeless searches and found threads as similar to mine which the problem was a bad slave cylinder. could this be it for me too? mine was working fine until i bitch'd it all out...

when i loosen the cylinder valve, nothing comes out...no liquid of any sort. i checked the master cylinder (in front of driver's side firewall) and it's full- just like how it was before. my car has been up on stands for almost a week or more...flatbedding to the dealership is my last option...

can anyone think of anything else that could have caused the no-pressure on the clutch?

xviper

That's what it's supposed to do. You must manually lift it up each time.

deepee

so do i have someone in the car constantly pumping the clutch with his hand in and out? will it eventually get 'hard' like a brake?

xviper

Please check out my Clutch Bleed "How To":

https://www.s2ki.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=118878

The clutch is unlike the brakes in that its return spring is the clutch pressure plate. When you are bleeding the system and have the bleed valve open, you've basically disconnected the clutch from the PP.
You open the bleeder valve, then push down. While down, you close the valve and then lift up. Repeat as many times as necessary to finish the job. As per my DIY, when finished, close valve, ensure reservoir is at the correct level, put cap back on reservoir and pump the pedal rapidly several times for the top couple of inches to ensure the plunger is set.
Yes, two people would be handy but you can do it yourself. Open valve, gravity will begin to make the pedal go down but go up and push it all the way down. Close valve, go and lift pedal up. Since the valve is closed, it won't go down much. Go back under and open valve, etc, etc. Keep level of fluid from getting too low in reservoir.

SIIK2NR

I sent you and extensive PM on this last week AND gave you my phone number if you needed more help...

The write up states they have to pump it up and down vigorously 10+ times. This means they will have to "lift" and "push" the clutch until it gets hard...

If you flatbed your S to the dealership because you can't figure out how to "bleed" your clutch line.....it will be the BIGGEST waste of money.

The help and info is all here.

deepee

You know...I honestly considered calling you today...but I figured you'd be at work and I didn't want to bother you for my personal troubles unless I truly had to.

Your write up DOES say pump it and I thought it would 'feel' like as if i'm pumping the brake pedal. I misunderstood the word "pump".

I was just worried that no-pressure on the pedal was something out of order. Thank to you both for chiming in. All I really needed to hear was "it's normal" and "pump it up and down with your hand" which is what I got out of this thread.

Back to the car...

vtec9

man I'm slow today

SIIK2NR

The pedal will get more "firm" once you do this about 3-4 times....


I would NOT have offered you my number if I didn't want to extend my help..

Tim

gary_phd

If you are bleeding it yourself, instead of using a shorter drain tube to the slave, use a longer one. With the longer one, creat a loop-to-loop upwards. This will trap enough brake/clutch fluid in the tube to preven air from returning into the slave. I looped the tubing as high as I could, and looped it back down into the drain pan.

Once you have the tubing in place, you can leave the bleeder open, no need to go up and down from underneath the car.

Basic steps:

1) Fill res.
2) Open bleeder (with looped hose)
3) Push clutch down and pull up, approx 4 - 5 times (as not to completely drain res)
4) Repeat steps 1 and 3 approximately 3-4 more times (should be ample to flush all fluid/air)
5) Make sure res is filled to proper level, close
6) Close bleeder
7) Test pedal feel, if all is ok...

Remove drain tube, clean up, all done! Only had to open and close bleeder one time. Total bleed time, approx 10 - 15 mins.

Squeezer

your best friend http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/disp...temnumber=39522