Is my clutch going?
#23
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99% of the time when you replace the clutch, it is actually the friction disk, the pressure plate, and the throw out bearing. also be sure the shop resurfaces the fly wheel. if they dont it could cause clutch chatter. The reasons are as follows:
pressure plate- the fingers on the pressure plate that the throw out bearing rides on will have gouge marks from the throw out bearing, especially if you "ride the clutch" or rest your foot on the clutch pedal while driving. and the springs in the pressure plate loose spring tension
throw out bearing- the bearing its slef also wears. and we all know that no matter what, any bearring will wear. and the throw out bearing has to put up with harsh conditions. High loads and high heat, no repacking of grease. there for, the bearing will wear against the fingers of the pressure plate.
Friction disc- The disk is close to brake pads, they wear when they slip, they loose material and loose gripping ability. usually the reason a clutch goes bad.
Fly wheel resurfacing- The fly wheel could be consisdered the brake rotor. After use it gets glazed and uses the same wear pattern. a new clutch disc will not seat like the old one did, and cause chatter. ALWAYS, can not stress this enough, always resurface the fly wheel.
the pilot bearing should also be replaced it cost close to $20 i think. im not sure if it has one but i would imagine it does as most RWD cars do.
And always drive the car "like a normal person for atleast 150 miles to let the new clutch seat.
if any one has any problems please PM me, im always happy to help.
Dave (the 20 yr old know it all)
pressure plate- the fingers on the pressure plate that the throw out bearing rides on will have gouge marks from the throw out bearing, especially if you "ride the clutch" or rest your foot on the clutch pedal while driving. and the springs in the pressure plate loose spring tension
throw out bearing- the bearing its slef also wears. and we all know that no matter what, any bearring will wear. and the throw out bearing has to put up with harsh conditions. High loads and high heat, no repacking of grease. there for, the bearing will wear against the fingers of the pressure plate.
Friction disc- The disk is close to brake pads, they wear when they slip, they loose material and loose gripping ability. usually the reason a clutch goes bad.
Fly wheel resurfacing- The fly wheel could be consisdered the brake rotor. After use it gets glazed and uses the same wear pattern. a new clutch disc will not seat like the old one did, and cause chatter. ALWAYS, can not stress this enough, always resurface the fly wheel.
the pilot bearing should also be replaced it cost close to $20 i think. im not sure if it has one but i would imagine it does as most RWD cars do.
And always drive the car "like a normal person for atleast 150 miles to let the new clutch seat.
if any one has any problems please PM me, im always happy to help.
Dave (the 20 yr old know it all)
#24
I had 96,000 on the original clutch in my Integra GS-R (b18c) and it was just beginning to slip occasionally, and believe me, I had a plenty of fun driving that car (15k miles per set of Pirellis). Only 20k miles on an s2000 clutch sounds strangely low to me.
My 2
My 2
#25
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I currently drive 2 Hondas and both clutches seem to work fine for me. The S2K has seen ~50 autoxes and 30k miles, yet has no problem with slippage unless I power shift the 1-2 gears. I'm still on the original brakes pads too.
The '96 Accord has seen almost 90k miles and its still on its original front brakes pads and clutch after ~15-20 autoxes. I think it all depends on the way you drive, riding the clutch in first gear and shifting real slow seems to put more wear on the clutch as my friend had his replaced at 40k miles. He drives like g-ma. Rather than standing on the brakes everytime you stop, I try to brake earlier by gently pumping my brakes until I hit the stoplight. This seemed to prolong the brake pads on both cars even though they have lived a tough life.
The '96 Accord has seen almost 90k miles and its still on its original front brakes pads and clutch after ~15-20 autoxes. I think it all depends on the way you drive, riding the clutch in first gear and shifting real slow seems to put more wear on the clutch as my friend had his replaced at 40k miles. He drives like g-ma. Rather than standing on the brakes everytime you stop, I try to brake earlier by gently pumping my brakes until I hit the stoplight. This seemed to prolong the brake pads on both cars even though they have lived a tough life.
#26
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87 integra original owner. First clutch at 195k with much double clutching along the way.
92 galant vr4 second owner @ 30k. First clutch at 113k.
Size of clutch (diameter), weight of car along with your clutch engagement technique
and clutch adjustments determine longativity of street clutches.
92 galant vr4 second owner @ 30k. First clutch at 113k.
Size of clutch (diameter), weight of car along with your clutch engagement technique
and clutch adjustments determine longativity of street clutches.
#28
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if the clutch is bad the engine will over power the gripping power of the clutch. when full power is applied the clutch will loose its grip on the fly wheel, and slip. thats why the engine will rev w/o going any faster. if it is done in a lower gear, the problem can "hide" because the mechanical advantage of using a lower gear makes it easier to speed up the vehicle.
#29
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I have a similar problem to the original poster but my clutch has a grinding feeling only when letting out. This happens when the engine is not running or running. I feel it and hear it when the car is off. Just imagine sitting in your seat and pushing in the clutch with the car turned off and slowly letting out and hearing and feeling a grinding sound or rubbing sound. I appreciate any of your thoughts on this issue. I have taken it to Honda and they are going to do the TSB 054 but I know that is not the problem. I just hope they will fix the real problem by looking around in there while they are working on the TSB.