My car is falling apart!
07-05-2011, 08:47 AM
#11
looks like my quick-post didn't work.
I switched out all fuses and nothing changed. I checked the e-brake and the light activates to show when it is engaged so I think all that wiring is fine too.
I didn't pull the center panel apart to trace the wire yet since I decided my car needed a detail after playing around on the floormats. I"ll try and dig some more into this next weekend.
Any other suggestions for places to check that might be causing the defroster and soft-top to not function? Evertyhing else seems to be working fine (minus the O2 sensor).
I switched out all fuses and nothing changed. I checked the e-brake and the light activates to show when it is engaged so I think all that wiring is fine too.
I didn't pull the center panel apart to trace the wire yet since I decided my car needed a detail after playing around on the floormats. I"ll try and dig some more into this next weekend.
Any other suggestions for places to check that might be causing the defroster and soft-top to not function? Evertyhing else seems to be working fine (minus the O2 sensor).
07-09-2011, 11:04 AM
#12
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Hi,
Do you happen to have a test light? If not, you should buy one from your local Advanced Auto Store, it's a must if you work on electrical systems. My suggestion would be to disconnect the Negative battery terminal from the battery, hook up the clip of the test light to the negative terminal of the wiring (that you unhooked off of the battery) and then touch the tip of the test light to the negative terminal on the battery itself (completing the circuit). If you get a light, then there's a short somewhere.
If you have a light what I would do is go into the fuse box, hook the clip of the test light to any ground on the car, and with the tip of the test light start tapping every fuse one by one (if you look closely at the top of the fuse, there are little holes that let you do this there should be 2 holes per fuse). If you tap the first hole and there's no light and tap the second and there is light that's what you want.
If all the fuses check out, I would pull the center console and check the connection under the defrost button and the roof button. If everything was connected properly, i'd take the connections out and with your trusty test light, test them out for current at the connector that hooks up to the switch.
Hope this helps you out!
Do you happen to have a test light? If not, you should buy one from your local Advanced Auto Store, it's a must if you work on electrical systems. My suggestion would be to disconnect the Negative battery terminal from the battery, hook up the clip of the test light to the negative terminal of the wiring (that you unhooked off of the battery) and then touch the tip of the test light to the negative terminal on the battery itself (completing the circuit). If you get a light, then there's a short somewhere.
If you have a light what I would do is go into the fuse box, hook the clip of the test light to any ground on the car, and with the tip of the test light start tapping every fuse one by one (if you look closely at the top of the fuse, there are little holes that let you do this there should be 2 holes per fuse). If you tap the first hole and there's no light and tap the second and there is light that's what you want.
If all the fuses check out, I would pull the center console and check the connection under the defrost button and the roof button. If everything was connected properly, i'd take the connections out and with your trusty test light, test them out for current at the connector that hooks up to the switch.
Hope this helps you out!
07-11-2011, 11:49 AM
#13
Hi,
Do you happen to have a test light? If not, you should buy one from your local Advanced Auto Store, it's a must if you work on electrical systems. My suggestion would be to disconnect the Negative battery terminal from the battery, hook up the clip of the test light to the negative terminal of the wiring (that you unhooked off of the battery) and then touch the tip of the test light to the negative terminal on the battery itself (completing the circuit). If you get a light, then there's a short somewhere.
If you have a light what I would do is go into the fuse box, hook the clip of the test light to any ground on the car, and with the tip of the test light start tapping every fuse one by one (if you look closely at the top of the fuse, there are little holes that let you do this there should be 2 holes per fuse). If you tap the first hole and there's no light and tap the second and there is light that's what you want.
If all the fuses check out, I would pull the center console and check the connection under the defrost button and the roof button. If everything was connected properly, i'd take the connections out and with your trusty test light, test them out for current at the connector that hooks up to the switch.
Hope this helps you out!
Do you happen to have a test light? If not, you should buy one from your local Advanced Auto Store, it's a must if you work on electrical systems. My suggestion would be to disconnect the Negative battery terminal from the battery, hook up the clip of the test light to the negative terminal of the wiring (that you unhooked off of the battery) and then touch the tip of the test light to the negative terminal on the battery itself (completing the circuit). If you get a light, then there's a short somewhere.
If you have a light what I would do is go into the fuse box, hook the clip of the test light to any ground on the car, and with the tip of the test light start tapping every fuse one by one (if you look closely at the top of the fuse, there are little holes that let you do this there should be 2 holes per fuse). If you tap the first hole and there's no light and tap the second and there is light that's what you want.
If all the fuses check out, I would pull the center console and check the connection under the defrost button and the roof button. If everything was connected properly, i'd take the connections out and with your trusty test light, test them out for current at the connector that hooks up to the switch.
Hope this helps you out!
thanks bub. I'll try doing that this next weekend.
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