My brakes are sticking and i dont know what to do
11-21-2011, 09:37 AM
#21
Moderator
If your pedal is worse, you have air in it.
Did you let the system run dry while the calipers were off?
I would have:
Disconnect the STEEL LINES from the hoses one at a time. Cap each line with the small rubber cap that was capping your caliper bleeder screws. Now you have four lines disconnected and capped, system full of fluid.
Pull your calipers, do your rebuilds. Blow your brake hoses out with compressed air. Use a couple drops of clean brake fluid and blow that through the hoses if you like.
Gravity bleed the car out the steel lines with new fluid without hooking up the hoses and calipers to the lines. Once all four corners run clean, THEN connect your lines to your hoses. This way no dirty fluid ever enters your newly rebuilt calipers.
As far as your current air situation, search for my post on back-chasing the air.
Did you let the system run dry while the calipers were off?
I would have:
Disconnect the STEEL LINES from the hoses one at a time. Cap each line with the small rubber cap that was capping your caliper bleeder screws. Now you have four lines disconnected and capped, system full of fluid.
Pull your calipers, do your rebuilds. Blow your brake hoses out with compressed air. Use a couple drops of clean brake fluid and blow that through the hoses if you like.
Gravity bleed the car out the steel lines with new fluid without hooking up the hoses and calipers to the lines. Once all four corners run clean, THEN connect your lines to your hoses. This way no dirty fluid ever enters your newly rebuilt calipers.
As far as your current air situation, search for my post on back-chasing the air.
11-21-2011, 09:42 AM
#22
Moderator
I had a customer s2k with stuck pistons. I pulled them and they were packed with rust.
The piston was serverely pitted. I spun the piston with the drill so i could spin-sand it with sandpaper. In the end i had a highly polished piston, with a nice ring of pits 360 degrees around it.
I put it together and to my surprise it doesnt leak.
But I think as the pads wear, and the pitted part of the piston reaches the inner pressure seal, the leak will start.
The piston was serverely pitted. I spun the piston with the drill so i could spin-sand it with sandpaper. In the end i had a highly polished piston, with a nice ring of pits 360 degrees around it.
I put it together and to my surprise it doesnt leak.
But I think as the pads wear, and the pitted part of the piston reaches the inner pressure seal, the leak will start.
11-21-2011, 10:43 AM
#23
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For the rear calipers: (gravity)bleed them off the car.
The bleeder isn't at the most best spot, after a rebuild some air can be trapped.
Also, hitting the caliper with a small steel hammer, holding it in your hands with bleeder pointed straigh up, can free small air bubbles.
Worked for me after a full rear caliper rebuild.
The bleeder isn't at the most best spot, after a rebuild some air can be trapped.
Also, hitting the caliper with a small steel hammer, holding it in your hands with bleeder pointed straigh up, can free small air bubbles.
Worked for me after a full rear caliper rebuild.
11-21-2011, 04:45 PM
#24
thanks bellman and spitfire really useful info i will do a gravity bleed tomo morning.one question though, is it ok if i bleed them while only jacking up one side at a time ? the reason is because the jackstands i used were my buddys and he needs them back. so i was wondering if i could jack one side up and bleed the LF then put the car down and jack up the other side and proceed with the bleeding?
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