My brakes are sticking and i dont know what to do
11-12-2011, 01:52 AM
#11
Registered User
Originally Posted by Ken_SNISEN' timestamp='1320957778' post='21146318
it might be a good opportunity/excuse to install the accord calipers...
It would cost about $190 for calipers, $30 for 1.5 mm shims, $60 for brake lines and 30 minutes on each corner trimming the heat sheild.
11-12-2011, 03:09 AM
#12
Moderator
11-13-2011, 08:29 PM
#13
Originally Posted by 2003AP1' timestamp='1321078661' post='21150152
I know no body uses them anymore, but if you were to brake hone the cylinder of the caliper can you still use the same size pistons or do you risk brake fluid leaking?
11-14-2011, 07:21 AM
#14
so heres my update on my brakes. Four days ago i pulled out the caliper (still attached to the brake line) and i got a c -clamp and opened the bleed valve and pushed the pistons back in the the closed the bleed valve and pumped the brake with the caliper still off to try and free the piston from the rust. did this procedure about 15 times on each piston and it worked amazingly. the reason why i did this is because i daily drive my s and didn't wanna burn the rotors off lol. also i had just ordered a rebuild kit from hardtop guy for each caliper but i needed to wait a week for it to arrive. anyways i found some pretty informative and reassuring things. first- on the right front ,which was the worst, the liquid that came outta the bleed screw when i pushed the piston back wasn't the clean fluid i had put in a few days before it was really dark orange no clumps fortunately. but the craziness came from the left front when i pushed that piston back the fluid that came out looked like bright orange tang lol. it was really bad. I wasn't able to get all of it out but i got most of it. the rears weren't so bad but i did the same procedure on them. anyways the good news is that although I'm still rebuilding them this worked great not the ideal thing to do but since i can't leave my car on jackstands for more than a day due to not having a second car it was the best improvised idea i could come up with. and even better news is that the pistons aren't leaking at all. i can't wait to do the rebuild and really see whats in there. anyways it feels good to have my car roll when i let off the brake in a stop. i will fill everyone up on the results when i do the rebuild.
BTW although I'm pretty sure what i did to the brakes probably isn't recommended what do you guys think? id like to know.
BTW although I'm pretty sure what i did to the brakes probably isn't recommended what do you guys think? id like to know.
11-15-2011, 07:03 AM
#15
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I am going through the same issue with my drivers side front. I am going to order a rebuild caliper from honda in a few weeks, and install that with a fresh bleed of ate blue fluid. I'm just too busy right now to take care of this immediatly, so itll have to wait for a little.
11-17-2011, 11:59 AM
#17
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... and i got a c -clamp and opened the bleed valve and pushed the pistons back in the the closed the bleed valve and pumped the brake with the caliper still off to try and free the piston from the rust. did this procedure about 15 times on each piston and it worked amazingly....
BTW although I'm pretty sure what i did to the brakes probably isn't recommended what do you guys think? id like to know.
BTW although I'm pretty sure what i did to the brakes probably isn't recommended what do you guys think? id like to know.
IOW it will bond/seize again.
This happened to me with my rear calipers - where the pistons TURN in, not push in with any clamp
Depending on the pitting you find the calipers may be done.
11-17-2011, 06:04 PM
#18
so i got my rebuild kits today and funny enough they're slightly starting to stick in the back again so I'm rebuilding it this saturday. ill let everyone know of the damage that lurks inside.
11-21-2011, 07:40 AM
#20
so i finally finished doing the rebuild yesterday took me one all nighter and the whole next day to do lol. im really meticulous. everything went really well except taking all the components apart initially was a PITA because of all the rust. amazingly only one piston was very slightly rusted in one little spot and its working just fine. i have to say though i didnt heed everyones warning about how an annoying job this is and holy s*** is it annoying. i hate dust boots. lol anyways the only problem that i have after all this is that my pedal after bleeding the brake is way softer.not really spongy but it goes deeper than before. i believe its due to the fact that when i bled the brakes my g/f was pumping and didnt put enough pressure or maybe i just bled them wrong. i used the traditional bleeding method of two people and i told my g/f to pump only three times before releasing the bleed screw. maybe that wasnt enough. i read somewhere its supposed to be 5 times. and i did it in the correct order that is described in the service manual.. anyways if anyone can shed some light on the reason why my brake pedal is soft that would be great. also i already checked for leaks on the calipers and the BMC. thanks to everyone who helped me here.