MY '06 Stumble
10-11-2006, 04:06 PM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 33
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
MY '06 Stumble
MY '06: Driving normally, when I shift gears, the engine falls on its face when throttle is reapplied. Feels like a bad accel pump (for those of you who know what this means).
Any ideas?
Any ideas?
10-11-2006, 04:46 PM
#3
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Los Cerritos Mall
Posts: 612
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
i have it too!!! i have complained to the honda dealers and they have no record or reported problems.
It has something to dow ith the throttle correction what happens is the throttle overcompensates on slow speeds so it abruptly closes a little giving the flat spot.
This will occure any time if your taking off on 1st gear and you give it say 75% throttle you will feel it slightly but when you grab for the next gear you will feel it even more.
So far there is no fix for it....
It has something to dow ith the throttle correction what happens is the throttle overcompensates on slow speeds so it abruptly closes a little giving the flat spot.
This will occure any time if your taking off on 1st gear and you give it say 75% throttle you will feel it slightly but when you grab for the next gear you will feel it even more.
So far there is no fix for it....
Trending Topics
10-11-2006, 06:07 PM
#8
Hmm I'll pay attention for this - don't think I have this problem but I still think the gearbox is one of least smooth I've ever had.
I drove a '06 Civic the other day and it was as smooth as glass, a few weeks ago drove a friggen Skoda, in Europe, again a great and smooth feel.
And yes the gearbox on the S gets better the hotter it gets but dang is it notchy.
I drove a '06 Civic the other day and it was as smooth as glass, a few weeks ago drove a friggen Skoda, in Europe, again a great and smooth feel.
And yes the gearbox on the S gets better the hotter it gets but dang is it notchy.
10-11-2006, 06:33 PM
#9
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: San Jose, CA
Posts: 87
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I have it too, more or less. It only happens to me on the 1-2 shift these days, and even then, only if I short 1st quite a bit so that it drops to around 2k in 2nd and then give it lots of gas. It used to happen on 2-3 as well, and sometimes as high as 2800 rpm in 2nd and 3500 in 1st.
Tried all sorts of things to see what would help. I found that the problem occurred a lot less with Chevron than with Shell, but use the Shell anyway, 'cause of how much better Shell is in VTEC than the Chevron.
I also found that running the blower at about 3 bars helps eliminate the low voltage mode (~12.6) that honda uses to save fuel. The problem with the low voltage is that all of a sudden when it decides it needs more electricity, it has to kick in the alternator (to ~13.7). That can occur suddenly in the middle of heavy throttle application. Thought for a while that might be the problem.
Then I had a very careful valve adjustment done (at ~4500mi) [all found to be within spec, but were kinda all over the allowable range - i had them all set to tight end of spec]. Problem was immediately much better, faded away, and even disappeared (also got more power above 2k rpm, lost some below 2k).
Then (after about 3-4 tankfuls of great driving) I put on a free flow air filter, and it came back, but mild this time, not nearly as bad as before the valve job. [Still though with the free flow air filter, the car feels better in VTEC, so I'm keeping it.]
I think the flat spot is in the ECU fuel mangement (tables). I notice that if I reset the ECU (by disconnecting the battery for a while) that the car runs ok for a about 1/2 a tank, then, runs really great for a short while (1/4 tank), and then settles in to having that little stumble. I think it's trying to optimize and fine-tune the fuel during that period as it's learning the particulars of the engine, and finally gets to a point where its just a bit too lean, but good for emissions and mileage.
Still, though, the valve adjustment helped a lot. I don't think it's some magic cure. Here's how I think it helps. I think it runs so lean that if there is any variation among the cylinders, then the leanest one (or two) is just too lean and stumbles, even if some of the others are fine. Since there is only one O2 (air-fuel ratio) sensor it feedbacks to the ECU an average across the cylinders. I think the valve job helps ensure that the cylinders are more even.
There might also be something going on relative to shifting, as its very hard to reproduce by returning to same rpm in gear and doing same manuver without the up shfit. It only happens after a shift, but will still happen even if I shift, let the clutch out, and wait a while before stabbing the throttle. Again if I return to same rpm in gear, it won't happen again. (Maybe DBW goes into some clutch/drive-train saving mode after a shift followed by heavy throttle?)
Just a guess, if leanness is the problem (vs. DBW just plain closing the throttle for some reason), other things that might help are better spark plugs (if such exist) to better light the super lean mixtures. I'm thinking about trying the denso iridium as experiment.
Also, some variation among O2 sensors might work in our favor if one were to find any (expesive though, our air fuel ratio sensor is around $150). I might try a Bosch when their replacement hits the market - I had good luck with them compared to NGK in my last car, an RX-7.
Just some food for thought. I still think the right answer would be a factory ECU update/reflash. (Mazda had a new reflash for rx-8 every few months when it first came out.) Best of luck all.
Tried all sorts of things to see what would help. I found that the problem occurred a lot less with Chevron than with Shell, but use the Shell anyway, 'cause of how much better Shell is in VTEC than the Chevron.
I also found that running the blower at about 3 bars helps eliminate the low voltage mode (~12.6) that honda uses to save fuel. The problem with the low voltage is that all of a sudden when it decides it needs more electricity, it has to kick in the alternator (to ~13.7). That can occur suddenly in the middle of heavy throttle application. Thought for a while that might be the problem.
Then I had a very careful valve adjustment done (at ~4500mi) [all found to be within spec, but were kinda all over the allowable range - i had them all set to tight end of spec]. Problem was immediately much better, faded away, and even disappeared (also got more power above 2k rpm, lost some below 2k).
Then (after about 3-4 tankfuls of great driving) I put on a free flow air filter, and it came back, but mild this time, not nearly as bad as before the valve job. [Still though with the free flow air filter, the car feels better in VTEC, so I'm keeping it.]
I think the flat spot is in the ECU fuel mangement (tables). I notice that if I reset the ECU (by disconnecting the battery for a while) that the car runs ok for a about 1/2 a tank, then, runs really great for a short while (1/4 tank), and then settles in to having that little stumble. I think it's trying to optimize and fine-tune the fuel during that period as it's learning the particulars of the engine, and finally gets to a point where its just a bit too lean, but good for emissions and mileage.
Still, though, the valve adjustment helped a lot. I don't think it's some magic cure. Here's how I think it helps. I think it runs so lean that if there is any variation among the cylinders, then the leanest one (or two) is just too lean and stumbles, even if some of the others are fine. Since there is only one O2 (air-fuel ratio) sensor it feedbacks to the ECU an average across the cylinders. I think the valve job helps ensure that the cylinders are more even.
There might also be something going on relative to shifting, as its very hard to reproduce by returning to same rpm in gear and doing same manuver without the up shfit. It only happens after a shift, but will still happen even if I shift, let the clutch out, and wait a while before stabbing the throttle. Again if I return to same rpm in gear, it won't happen again. (Maybe DBW goes into some clutch/drive-train saving mode after a shift followed by heavy throttle?)
Just a guess, if leanness is the problem (vs. DBW just plain closing the throttle for some reason), other things that might help are better spark plugs (if such exist) to better light the super lean mixtures. I'm thinking about trying the denso iridium as experiment.
Also, some variation among O2 sensors might work in our favor if one were to find any (expesive though, our air fuel ratio sensor is around $150). I might try a Bosch when their replacement hits the market - I had good luck with them compared to NGK in my last car, an RX-7.
Just some food for thought. I still think the right answer would be a factory ECU update/reflash. (Mazda had a new reflash for rx-8 every few months when it first came out.) Best of luck all.
