Billman250

The cylinder head casting might be salvageable. A little cosmetic grinding from the chain will not be an issue.

You will definitely need 2 camshafts, a 10 piece matched upper and lower cam cap assembly, and a cam wheel. The VTEC rockers may be salvageable.

When they see a cylinder head costs the same as an emgine, they may want to go used. I have tons of stuff.

On the car I had here, I was able to save the head/springs/retainers/valves, VTEC rockers and shafts.

Block, crank, rods, pistons, cam caps, camshafts, cam wheel were all destroyed.

Importedpower

They told me that their insurance was going to cover the cost of a new motor assembly which was going to be around 7000$, and that he would call me within two days to finalize the insurance stuff so they can get the motor ordered.

I am also supposed to get the stock motor back, which i will promptly disassemble myself and post pictures and what i could salvage. I will possibly try and build a new motor to have a spare with what i can salvage from the old one, or use it as a tool to learn the inner workings of our motors which is something id like to do.

XBMAX

Very glad to hear they will be replacing it, I would have been devistated if that happened to me :s

Importedpower

The shop wants to see if anyone makes an assembled motor. They don't mind buying the top and bottom end, but they would prefer a fully assembled motor. I cant seem to find one short of Spoon/js/etc.

If buying the two halves, what actually would need to be purchased with them? just a head gasket? never bought a motor in halves...

JohnsS2000

shortblock would be a "bare" block but would have the internals - crank, pistons, oil pan. theyll have to transfer over the intake, exhaust and all sensors.

SlowTeg

Wow.. it's obviously hard for me to say it was 100% the shop's fault, and I understand shit happens, but it's how people handle themselves when shit happens that really shows true character. In this day and age when responsibility seems to be a fleeting quality, nice to know there are still some stand up people/businesses out there.

Importedpower

Well, they would prefer i find an assembled motor, but at this point i don't think that will happen. not a new one atleast.

Billman, what are my options? I called around and the local dealers want 1200$ to assemble the two.

The shop wants me to call em back and let them know, they are willing to buy the head assy. and the cylinder assy. but i mean... if they made a mistake in that area once ya know...

Billman250

could possibly build you one.

brand new short block, supply incidentals and used-mint cylinder head. but you are far...

Importedpower

They just said they would get the parts and have it assembled then drop the motor in.

All expenses paid...

They said 2-3 weeks till i get my baby back...

Billman250

S2000 New short block oil pressure prime:

-charge battery to full capacity with shop charger (it will be low/weak from sitting while car is down)
-use Mobil1 from day 1, 10w30 (no need for dino oil break-in on FRM engine) and Honda PCX oil filter
-remove coil packs and spark plugs (disables spark and reduces rod and main bearing load to zero)
-remove fuel pump fuse under dash (it is marked, check legend by hood release) stops fuel from washing oil off cylinders
-Crank engine with start button until oil light on dash goes OFF
-re-install fuel pump fuse, coil packs, spark plugs and fire it up

Coolant bleed is absolutely critical to new engine install...find my procedure and print it. DO NOT drive the car down the road until the heat is hot. Use straight Honda type2 blue for 10 plus years with a spotless cooling system.

print this post for your guys. Not that they don't know how to work on cars, but this one requires special procedures and here they are.

Failure to follow will result in them doing it twice.