Motor rebuild or replace?
08-17-2021, 11:19 AM
#11
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A rebuild is a huge gamble. The risk is extremely high that it'll grenade on you. These motors just don't take well to rebuilds.
You could easily spend several thousand, and end up in worse shape than you are now.
There is virtual zero chance that your mechanic can rebuild this motor successfully. Nor zero chance that machine shop he always uses for rebuilds and has never let him down can do it either.
You need to have a specialist shop that has a lot of experience rebuilding these motors do it, and even there you'll find plenty of horror stories.
There are also horror stories with new assembled blocks from Honda. Apparently they weren't stored properly or maybe the substance used for assembly lube wasn't meant to sit around for decades before engine was ever fired up. Whatever the case, stories of new engine after new engine failing in a few hundred miles after install.
You could sell the motor as-is for someone else to gamble a rebuild with, or someone that wants to sleeve it for a forced induction build (sleeves are cast iron cylinders that get pressed in to replace the stock frm impregnated aluminum cylinders. Cast iron can better withstand high levels of turbo boost that the really high hp guys go after. But its not at all a good choice for a car that isn't running super high boost).
Then buy a used motor. Yes, its also a gamble, but much less of one. If you get an ap2 motor, its highly likely not to burn oil, or at least a whole lot less than a used ap1 is likely to do (Honda changed how they build the ap2 motors, which largely fixed oil burning issues).
You could easily spend several thousand, and end up in worse shape than you are now.
There is virtual zero chance that your mechanic can rebuild this motor successfully. Nor zero chance that machine shop he always uses for rebuilds and has never let him down can do it either.
You need to have a specialist shop that has a lot of experience rebuilding these motors do it, and even there you'll find plenty of horror stories.
There are also horror stories with new assembled blocks from Honda. Apparently they weren't stored properly or maybe the substance used for assembly lube wasn't meant to sit around for decades before engine was ever fired up. Whatever the case, stories of new engine after new engine failing in a few hundred miles after install.
You could sell the motor as-is for someone else to gamble a rebuild with, or someone that wants to sleeve it for a forced induction build (sleeves are cast iron cylinders that get pressed in to replace the stock frm impregnated aluminum cylinders. Cast iron can better withstand high levels of turbo boost that the really high hp guys go after. But its not at all a good choice for a car that isn't running super high boost).
Then buy a used motor. Yes, its also a gamble, but much less of one. If you get an ap2 motor, its highly likely not to burn oil, or at least a whole lot less than a used ap1 is likely to do (Honda changed how they build the ap2 motors, which largely fixed oil burning issues).
08-17-2021, 11:19 AM
#12
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For good, honest work, check out Daisy Import Auto in Woodbine, MD. I'm not sure what he'll recommend as far as an engine replacement but I'll vouch that Ben's a good, honest mechanic. He's got a few threads in the Mid-A section from S2k customers. I'd trust him with tearing down my engine, for sure.
Even if you're not mechanically inclined, you should be able to determine if the engine is seized up. Put a wrench on the crankshaft pulley and see if you can turn it over. If it's completely frozen, the engine is seized and most likely not worth repairing. If it's not seized, search how to take the oil pan off. If your oil pan is showing a bunch of metal flakes, you'll probably need to budget for a replacement. Search on here about engine rebuilds to see if you even want to pursue that. If not, it may not even be worth tearing down. I think the failure and fear of engine rebuilds is a bit overblown on here but I still wouldn't be applying my money towards it. I'd be finding a F or K series.
If you're paying someone to tear down your engine, that's going to cost a fair chunk of labor. I'd do those first two simple things to see if it's even worth tearing down. If you're short on money, save the coin on diagnosing it and just replace it.
Even if you're not mechanically inclined, you should be able to determine if the engine is seized up. Put a wrench on the crankshaft pulley and see if you can turn it over. If it's completely frozen, the engine is seized and most likely not worth repairing. If it's not seized, search how to take the oil pan off. If your oil pan is showing a bunch of metal flakes, you'll probably need to budget for a replacement. Search on here about engine rebuilds to see if you even want to pursue that. If not, it may not even be worth tearing down. I think the failure and fear of engine rebuilds is a bit overblown on here but I still wouldn't be applying my money towards it. I'd be finding a F or K series.
If you're paying someone to tear down your engine, that's going to cost a fair chunk of labor. I'd do those first two simple things to see if it's even worth tearing down. If you're short on money, save the coin on diagnosing it and just replace it.
Thanks a lot for the advice on basic diagnosis! I might just YouTube learn to look at the car.
08-17-2021, 11:37 AM
#13
I don't have personal experience with either but have two places I'd be looking, if it were me. JE Import is in MD and has been around for years. I can't speak to their company but they aren't a fly-by-night place and will want to keep their reputation. Lee C Parts, linked below, has been expanding as a part out company for enthusiast cars for a few years. I haven't bought any type of drivetrain stuff through him but have bought other stuff. Again, I don't think he'd want to risk his reputation in anything bad.
Craigslist stuff may be an option, especially if you can run the donor car first. You'd also want to do a leakdown and compression test. Craigslist people do not have a reputation to uphold and do not have incentive to make a bad egg right. You may pay less but you'll take on that risk.
https://leecparts.com/
08-17-2021, 01:04 PM
#14
To be full and run out during a drive it would have smoke screened the entire town. Even if it went through a couple of quarts during one tank of gas that would have been very noticeable.
Like others said, tear down and see. If the cylinders are scored it is likely not fixable. And the cranks are pretty darned spendy as well. To be honest (and I have thought of this since I do track my car) if it were me and the motor went, I would be looking at this instead. https://www.shopasmotorsports.com/f2...engine-package
No affiliation, but the guy knows his S2ks and is well known for his stuff. I mean, it gets hard to think about a $4k - $5k F20C from salvage when you think about it.
Like others said, tear down and see. If the cylinders are scored it is likely not fixable. And the cranks are pretty darned spendy as well. To be honest (and I have thought of this since I do track my car) if it were me and the motor went, I would be looking at this instead. https://www.shopasmotorsports.com/f2...engine-package
No affiliation, but the guy knows his S2ks and is well known for his stuff. I mean, it gets hard to think about a $4k - $5k F20C from salvage when you think about it.
08-17-2021, 01:08 PM
#15
Also, at least around us, the shop I mentioned above has been known to find good F20C motors for reasonable prices. May want to give him a call to see if he has anything. With the swaps they do there is a good chance they can find one and from what I hear he is pretty reasonable on pricing.
08-17-2021, 01:16 PM
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To be full and run out during a drive it would have smoke screened the entire town. Even if it went through a couple of quarts during one tank of gas that would have been very noticeable.
Like others said, tear down and see. If the cylinders are scored it is likely not fixable. And the cranks are pretty darned spendy as well. To be honest (and I have thought of this since I do track my car) if it were me and the motor went, I would be looking at this instead. https://www.shopasmotorsports.com/f2...engine-package
No affiliation, but the guy knows his S2ks and is well known for his stuff. I mean, it gets hard to think about a $4k - $5k F20C from salvage when you think about it.
Like others said, tear down and see. If the cylinders are scored it is likely not fixable. And the cranks are pretty darned spendy as well. To be honest (and I have thought of this since I do track my car) if it were me and the motor went, I would be looking at this instead. https://www.shopasmotorsports.com/f2...engine-package
No affiliation, but the guy knows his S2ks and is well known for his stuff. I mean, it gets hard to think about a $4k - $5k F20C from salvage when you think about it.
08-17-2021, 02:16 PM
#17
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What do you mean it ran out of oil? How do you know?
Can you post more details of what happened and what the symptoms are?
Like...did the car stop running?? or...???
Can you post more details of what happened and what the symptoms are?
Like...did the car stop running?? or...???
08-17-2021, 02:21 PM
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I had checked the oil the same day and it was between full and empty on the diamonds. I was driving on the highway and the motor just started losing power. I pulled over and the car wouldn't start. Towed it to my mechanic and it would cost more to diagnose and rebuild than to replace
08-17-2021, 07:13 PM
#20
Keep driving it until it blows up. Save the money and just be prepared. Especially if issue is unknown. Then when something does give out you'll know exactly what to replace. That's just an option....