Is Mobile 1 worthwhile or just hype?
06-20-2001, 03:10 PM
#52
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[QUOTE]Originally posted by SilverFog
[B]
So, basically -- the sooner that oil-pressure is up to normal operating levels, the sooner the oil is flowing and lubricating at its fullest?
If one oil reaches this state sooner, especially in colder conditions, then that one oil is protecting SOONER...?
This oil then would be better protecting against cold-start wear?
[B]
So, basically -- the sooner that oil-pressure is up to normal operating levels, the sooner the oil is flowing and lubricating at its fullest?
If one oil reaches this state sooner, especially in colder conditions, then that one oil is protecting SOONER...?
This oil then would be better protecting against cold-start wear?
06-20-2001, 05:08 PM
#53
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When I was in college I work at a gas station(before the days of self-serv) in Ohio and at just 10 degrees, the oil in the display racks poured like honey. We always got a warm quart from inside when a customer needed oil added. Don't forget at engine start-up time is when the most wear occurs. Thick oil dosen't pump at all.
Mobil 1 was interduced in the mid-70s. I ran it in may 65 GTO, it sat outside most winter days will I was in class. It always started like it a summers day, not so with regular oil. Mobil ran an experiment with Ford, a Lincoln was selected from the production line and filled with Mobil 1. The car was then driven and every 4,000 miles the oil filter was removed and replaced with a new one and 1 quart of Mobil 1 was added(lost in filter change). After 100,000 miles the car was returned to Lincoln and the engine was torn down and the parts were measured. Every part was still within factory specs. We are now on the 3rd generation of Mobil 1 and it just gets better !
Mobil 1 sold for $3.85/qt. in the late 70's.
Mobil 1 was interduced in the mid-70s. I ran it in may 65 GTO, it sat outside most winter days will I was in class. It always started like it a summers day, not so with regular oil. Mobil ran an experiment with Ford, a Lincoln was selected from the production line and filled with Mobil 1. The car was then driven and every 4,000 miles the oil filter was removed and replaced with a new one and 1 quart of Mobil 1 was added(lost in filter change). After 100,000 miles the car was returned to Lincoln and the engine was torn down and the parts were measured. Every part was still within factory specs. We are now on the 3rd generation of Mobil 1 and it just gets better !
Mobil 1 sold for $3.85/qt. in the late 70's.
06-20-2001, 05:39 PM
#54
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I am convinced by many arguments made here that I am going to go with synthetic oil. However, I used to have an 1991 Honda Accord which regular conventional oil was used all the time. It was running fine even after 170,500 miles. Anyway, I want only the best for my stook so I will use the Mobile 1. Guys, where do you buy Mobile 1 from???
06-20-2001, 06:55 PM
#55
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[QUOTE]Originally posted by SilverFog
[B]
So, basically -- the sooner that oil-pressure is up to normal operating levels, the sooner the oil is flowing and lubricating at its fullest?
If one oil reaches this state sooner, especially in colder conditions, then that one oil is protecting SOONER...?
This oil then would be better protecting against cold-start wear?
[B]
So, basically -- the sooner that oil-pressure is up to normal operating levels, the sooner the oil is flowing and lubricating at its fullest?
If one oil reaches this state sooner, especially in colder conditions, then that one oil is protecting SOONER...?
This oil then would be better protecting against cold-start wear?
06-20-2001, 07:02 PM
#56
[QUOTE]Originally posted by StwoK
[B]When I was in college I work at a gas station(before the days of self-serv) in Ohio and at just 10 degrees, the oil in the display racks poured like honey.
[B]When I was in college I work at a gas station(before the days of self-serv) in Ohio and at just 10 degrees, the oil in the display racks poured like honey.
06-02-2006, 12:11 AM
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Isn't this whole "cold start" nonsense the reason behind multi-weight oils??
If a 5w-30 is a 5 weight when it's cold and a 30 weight when it's hot it seems like THIS WOULD BE THE REASON to avoid running your car hard when cold.... because the oil is THINNER!
If a 10w-30 Dino oil a slower flow rate (viscosity) than a 10w-30 synthetic.... why the hell are they both rated 10w????
The rating is simply a measurement of viscosity at a specific temperature regardless if it Dino, Synthetic, Canola, or Molasses! 10w is 10w.
If you need your oil to flow "faster" during cold starts you're WASTING your money on synthetics... you should be getting 0w-30 instead.
Also, has anyone ever seen those "Best Motoring" videos with all the Honda R's in them.... I'm referring specifically to the one that the famous s2k prototype at the nurburing video is from. I belive they have a top Honda Engineer (or is a spoon engineer?) being interviewed about what oil for the Type R engines. He said, "Don't waste your money on expensive oils, they're not Whiskey! Just use the oil that the factory recommends an change it when appropriate". His words are slightly modified due to my lack of memory but the point is the same. I have an Accord sitting in my driveway with 223k miles on it and the engine is clean as can be and it runs like it was brand new, never once did it see a synthetic oil.
I won't try to out-engineer the engineers. Like someone said before, no point in protecting myself from a threat that doesn't exist (even though that's totally unamerican!
)
It's late for me and that felt good to say.
If a 5w-30 is a 5 weight when it's cold and a 30 weight when it's hot it seems like THIS WOULD BE THE REASON to avoid running your car hard when cold.... because the oil is THINNER!
If a 10w-30 Dino oil a slower flow rate (viscosity) than a 10w-30 synthetic.... why the hell are they both rated 10w????
The rating is simply a measurement of viscosity at a specific temperature regardless if it Dino, Synthetic, Canola, or Molasses! 10w is 10w.
If you need your oil to flow "faster" during cold starts you're WASTING your money on synthetics... you should be getting 0w-30 instead.
Also, has anyone ever seen those "Best Motoring" videos with all the Honda R's in them.... I'm referring specifically to the one that the famous s2k prototype at the nurburing video is from. I belive they have a top Honda Engineer (or is a spoon engineer?) being interviewed about what oil for the Type R engines. He said, "Don't waste your money on expensive oils, they're not Whiskey! Just use the oil that the factory recommends an change it when appropriate". His words are slightly modified due to my lack of memory but the point is the same. I have an Accord sitting in my driveway with 223k miles on it and the engine is clean as can be and it runs like it was brand new, never once did it see a synthetic oil.
I won't try to out-engineer the engineers. Like someone said before, no point in protecting myself from a threat that doesn't exist (even though that's totally unamerican!
)It's late for me and that felt good to say.
06-02-2006, 01:39 AM
#59
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rice_classic Posted on Jun 2 2006, 10:11 AM
up to a point.
But...
That is excactly what they are doing themselfs by ongoing R&D!
So why not use something that has been developed recently?
1999 - 2006 is 7 years of R&D.
IMO a lot has changed in engine oils.
Btw, the SAE viscosity index "just" specify's the minimum kinematic viscosity for engine oils in the SAE J300 spec. and they are the same for 0W and 5W and only a little different for 10W (3.8, 3.8 and 4.1).
I won't try to out-engineer the engineers.
up to a point.But...
That is excactly what they are doing themselfs by ongoing R&D!
So why not use something that has been developed recently?
1999 - 2006 is 7 years of R&D.
IMO a lot has changed in engine oils.
Btw, the SAE viscosity index "just" specify's the minimum kinematic viscosity for engine oils in the SAE J300 spec. and they are the same for 0W and 5W and only a little different for 10W (3.8, 3.8 and 4.1).
06-02-2006, 03:50 AM
#60
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If anyone wants the data, check out Xvipers thread at the top of "Under the Hood". RoadRage has done alot of oil testing/comparisons. He has the data.
At the end of the day, it's personal choice about protection, $ and value.. Personally, I use Mobil 1 in all my vehicles and change oil @ 5,000 miles. To me it's worth the extra dollars.
At the end of the day, it's personal choice about protection, $ and value.. Personally, I use Mobil 1 in all my vehicles and change oil @ 5,000 miles. To me it's worth the extra dollars.