Bieg

Yes but that does not mean that they are not WORN. Had they been using Mobil 1 there will be LESS WEAR. That is the point. Less wear means higher oil pressure longer.

Because a part does not fail does not mean that it is like new.


Next time it is 0 degrees out take a bottle of Mobil 1 and a bottle of conventional oil of the same viscosity open them and turn them upside down. See which one drains out faster. Conventional oil gets thick when it is real cold and it is harder to flow until it warms up.

gabedude

So if most wear isn't caused at startup when the engine is cold, then why does my Honda Manual say "AVOID COLD STARTS"?

gabedude

Also, according to my Honda Manual I do drive in extreme conditions. >90 degrees F stop and go driving is considered extreme. I don't remember the low temp, but I think it is 20 or lower. That makes alot of us driving our cars in extreme condtions. Therefor it says to change oil every 3750 miles. I do it every 3000-4000 miles cause I rev the engine alot as well.

Alot of us here will pay that extra 20 bucks an oil change to give us that extra room in protection. The fact is, that when you do have to rush your doggy to the vet and hit vtec before the car is warmed up, you will be more protected with a synthetic. Maybe that does not happen much, maybe we are a little too overprotective. I know that at 135K on a short block 305 that had its oil changed every 3000 miles, the bearings were shot. And that engine did not rev to 9000 rpm...

Its really about whats more inportant to you. Saving a few bucks or spending more for that extra piece of mind.

I do know this as well. My sister had a Kia Sephia which she changed the oil 3 times in 30K. When I looked under her oil cap, there was sludge caked to it that was about 1 centimeter thick. Now thats just slipping 2500 miles from the recommended 7500 under "Highway mile conditions". Of course she was city driving in 90+ heat which qualifies as extreme.

Everyone just do this thread a favor and RTFM!

SilverFog

A couple things that say it for me:

[QUOTE]Originally posted by marcucci
I don't consider ANY wear minimal, and I believe it was outside of their margin of error ... and that synthetic wasn't worth the increase in cost. Woohoo, they aren't willing to pay for less wear- but I am!

Seriously, M1 is "insurance" for me. I pay a little more, and I expect through the analyses I've seen to incur less wear because of it.

Chris S

I use it for both my sports cars and motorcycles (my trucks "suffer" w/ dino oil). I've read a lot of great things about M1 that I unfortunately can't quote, so I'll just say it's cheap insurance that provides a bit more peace of mind that my engine is well-protected.

scargo

All,

Is there any truth to the claim made by some synthetic, and maybe some standard oils, that they meet Japanese valve train wear requirements? (I've been reading labels recently). On what scientific evidence is that claim made?

Would it be possible to install an electric on-demand oil pump to pre-lubricate the engine before starting in a cold climate or after a long period of storage? Is such a device used on race car engines?

One poster on another thread sent a sample of his oil to a laboratory for analysis. Could this approach be used to compare systhetic oil versus standard oil wear characteristics in an engine like ours?

Bieg

Such devices have been around for a long time. They are called "Pre-Oilers". Not very common though.

marcucci

[QUOTE]Originally posted by fuelie62
[B]All,

Is there any truth to the claim made by some synthetic, and maybe some standard oils, that they meet Japanese valve train wear requirements?

Bieg

No I guess you wouldn't seeing where you are located.

Trust me on this there is a difference and any car with an oil pressure gauge shows it clearly.

SilverFog

So, basically -- the sooner that oil-pressure is up to normal operating levels, the sooner the oil is flowing and lubricating at its fullest?

If one oil reaches this state sooner, especially in colder conditions, then that one oil is protecting SOONER...?

This oil then would be better protecting against cold-start wear?

Sounds good to me. I'll do anything to reduce engine wear. Including pay 400% more for my oil (ooo! $0.10/d versus $0.02/d* -- I must be a Sheik or something! Maybe if I win the lottery I can have an extra cup of coffee every day too! )

Seems like an easily verifiable fact too, on any car to which an oil pressure guage can be attached. BS tends to thrive where claims are difficult to quantitatively prove.


* assuming one oil change/year @ ~$36/fill versus ~$9/fill