slipstream444

I don't know HOW you're reading it then (post exactly what you're talking about because the numbers currently posted on Amsoil's site and I'm looking at say otherwise) - the current 5W30 doesn't outperform the 10W30. I used to use the 5W30 in the winter months until the formula was apparently cheapened. The Four ball numbers and NOACK volatility show the 5W30 is NOT a better oil (a larger number in the NOACK volatility test means MORE oil is burned off and ASL, SSO and the Series 2000 oils ALL have higher volatility numbers). The 5W30 is fine for the vehicles you're using it in though.
The VI is an arbitrary measure of an oil's characteristics as it goes from cold to hot (thinning characteristics). A 0W30 will have a larger index than a 5W30 and the 5W30 will have a larger index than a 10W30 - that's what's used in part to set the range. A 0W50 would have a much greater VI than a 0W30, but that doesn't make it a better oil - and certainly not the correct oil for the S2000.
The VI alone does not determine the overall quality of an oil - and certainly doesn't make one oil better than another. It's one piece of the picture. As stated before - there is NO single test that alone determines the quality and qualities of an oil. You generally want a VI greater than 150.
I tried the Series 2000 0W30 years ago and experienced higher valvetrain noise at startup, higher consuption, and much higher pain in the wallet. Once again, the only claimed benefit of the 0W30 over the other oils (measured at the time) was in the Four Ball test and the claimed 35,000 mile drain interval. The four ball numbers were not that much better to justify the added expense and the added consuption was not acceptable. There was is no added benefit in the viscocity numbers either.
The 10W30 produced slightly better four ball numbers back when the Series 2000 line was still being produced as well. Additionally, Amsoil 5W30 produced much better NOACK volatility numbers back when the Series 2000 line was still around. The 5W30 numbers were essentially identical to the 10W30 numbers back then. That is not the case today. If you have some of the older 5W30 - it's a better oil than what's offered today.

The only oil that appears NOT to have been "cheapened" in the Amsoil lineup is in fact the 10W30 (ATM). However, if this trend continues and the ATM formulation suffers what the other oils in the lineup have - I'll likely either switch to Redline.
I plan on discussing this with Amsoil tech services this week.

2007 ZX-10: the four ball test is an industry wide standardized test and is a valid measurement of wear protection.

slipstream444

The things you should never listen to when it comes to a technical subject are the ones just posted like this: "I have had great luck with my oil" or "I LOVE the oil I'm using" - those are neither qualitative or quantitative statements and basically say that their car's engine has not seized and therefore the oil must be working. No kidding.
This tells you nothing about the oil because the same can be said for any oil including conventional oil.
You should base your use of a motor oil on the specs provided by the company and any comparison tests available on the market.
Other data that is useful is any analysis provided (baseline and UOA). Additionally, posts showing wear over time show the most.

The leak-down performed on my S2000 at 40,000 miles show the following numbers: 1 - 1.25%; 2 - 1.25%; 3 - 1.35%; 4 - slightly less than 1.5%

The best numbers show 1.25% and the worst show 1.5% - those are very low numbers and a very tight spread between cylinders. That's a very good indication of wear in the engine, especially when I've had three over-revs with this car (10,200, 9,500, 9,400). Other measures include inspecting the cam lobes when the valves are being adjusted. The lobes should show no sign of "polishing" or grooving (the more factory machining marks reasily visible - the better the wear). My cams look like they just came out of the box.
Those are fact-based measures of wear, not based on feelings. Nothing provides more peace of mind.

Jay2000

I was always told that a higher viscosity number at the 100c was better and a lower number with the 40c is better. Was I told wrong? If so I am sorry.

If I was told right than the series 2000 has higher and lower numbers.

The four ball and noack were both performed at much higher temperatures than the 10-30 and still performed outstanding. I figure I run my car hard and the temperature internally probably gets very hot and I wanted the extra protection. I do burn about 1/2 quart of oil every 1500 miles. I change it every 5000 miles. I am not an oil expert at all, you seem very knowledgeable, am I way off kilter? Thanks

Jay

slipstream444

You want those values to lie within the specified range set forth for the oil in question.
If the 100C numbers are too high - then it may begin to cross the borderline between a 30 and 40 weight oil. However, 11.2 for the Series 2000 is well within the "30" range. If the 40C numbers are too low - then you run the risk of having inadequate lubrication and pumpability at startup - which is NOT a good thing. Remember that Honda specifies 10W30 for use in the S2000. That tells me that the oil pump is clearanced such that a thinner oil may not pump as well at startup.
This is a possible risk if you run with a "0" weight that lies at the low end of the "0" specification range during the summer months. Do I think this is an issue with the Series 2000 0W30 - no, that oil is not so thin that the oil pump would have problems pumping it and will flow sufficiently to provide lubrication, but provides NO advantage over ATM at startup during the summer months. It does have an advantage in colder weather though.
The 0.45mm four ball result for ATM is with the ASTM D 4172 @ 40 kgf, 150

dezignpro04

[QUOTE=2007 Zx-10,Aug 11 2008, 08:19 PM] What makes this engine different from others just because it's an S2000?

Jay2000

Shelf life of five years is good to know since I only change it once a year, I only drive about 5000 mileas a year. Thanks

Jay

2007 Zx-10

true, but I'm not convinced it has much to do with simulating actual conditions in an engine, and Mobil says the same thing

2007 Zx-10

This seems subjective Especially the "more noise at start-up". If the oil is thinner, it only makes sense you're going to hear more noise (less damping), but does that equate to greater wear on the valvetrain? I doubt it...I hear a little noise for about 20 seconds as the oil warms up, then it's gone

2007 Zx-10

No doubt that has something to do with it, but I don't think it's the full story. As far as I know BMW has recommended 5w-30 for several years now.

Interesting comment here
http://www.bmwe36blog.com/2007/04/22/what-...for-my-bmw-e36/

[QUOTE]Note that Mobil 1 0w-30, 5w-30, and 10w-30 are NOT ACEA A3 or BMW LL approved oils. This is because they all are thin 30 weight oils (approximately 9.8-10 CST@ 100c) and have HTHS of approximately 3.1. Mobil 1 0w-40 and 15w-50 are A3 rated and the Ow-40 is BMW LL-01 approved. For 99% of climates and users 0w-40 or 5w-40 is the appropriate grade. There are some 0w-30 and 5w-30 oils (like the BMW 5w-30) that are formulated on the heavier end of the 30 weight scale and are accordingly rated A3. These oils will work well also. LOOK FOR THAT ACEA A3 rating. If the oil doesn

slipstream444

I personally won't touch RP. I had a major issue with their gear oil in 2002 which resulted in an oil related failure. RP did not back their product. RP is extremely expensive and I haven't seen one reason to justify the expense. It doesn't preform well in industry standardized tests either.
Mobil 1 EP and Pennzoil Platinum perform better and cost less. I'm beginning to take a closer look at Pennzoil Platinum because everything I have seen to date shows it to be a very good oil - better than Mobil 1 EP in a number of areas. Don't get me wrong - Mobil 1 EP is a good oil - but is apparently a lot more expensive than P.P. (someone posted it was going for $19 for a 5 quart jug - that's a great price for a good oil).
One of the reasons (aside from outstanding performance) that I like Amsoil, is the corporation will repair or replace any component damaged due to an oil related failure. To date I haven't heard of one instance of an oil related failure while using Amsoil.