Mishap when doing CV joints
10-30-2011, 06:35 PM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Mishap when doing CV joints
I had the dreaded vibration on acceleration, so I did the inner joint swap left to right...worked perfectly and fixed the issue.
But, when pulling the driver (left) side ball joint (it was a REAL pain...right was easy!), I damaged the threads on the bolt of the ball joint that goes through the lower arm.
I was able to salvage it for now by grinding the bolt's threads down up to the point at the top of the holes for the cotter pins, and I was then able to get the castle nut on there...very exacting dremel work!
So, I thought this would be a simple "replace the ball joint" but the ball joint is part of the entire knuckle...which would mean pulling the axle, disconnecting the entire knuckle from the tie rod and upper control arms, packing bearings (?)...very labor intensive!
I'd say about 2/3 of the threads are still there, and it's holding fine. The threads are intact where the nut actually wraps entirely around the bolt...the "fingers" where you slide the cotter pin through have no threads anymore, though.
So, should I replace the entire knuckle, or are the "fingers" on the castle nut not biting into threads not a huge deal?
But, when pulling the driver (left) side ball joint (it was a REAL pain...right was easy!), I damaged the threads on the bolt of the ball joint that goes through the lower arm.
I was able to salvage it for now by grinding the bolt's threads down up to the point at the top of the holes for the cotter pins, and I was then able to get the castle nut on there...very exacting dremel work!
So, I thought this would be a simple "replace the ball joint" but the ball joint is part of the entire knuckle...which would mean pulling the axle, disconnecting the entire knuckle from the tie rod and upper control arms, packing bearings (?)...very labor intensive!
I'd say about 2/3 of the threads are still there, and it's holding fine. The threads are intact where the nut actually wraps entirely around the bolt...the "fingers" where you slide the cotter pin through have no threads anymore, though.
So, should I replace the entire knuckle, or are the "fingers" on the castle nut not biting into threads not a huge deal?
10-30-2011, 07:38 PM
#4
Registered User
Thread Starter
It's locked with a cotter pin. I ordered 2 new nuts and pins, too. I am leaning toward a new knuckle, too...but will probably have a shop do it.
10-31-2011, 05:23 AM
#5
Moderator
By your description, you are totally fine to leave it be. you say the nut has a full bite minus the castle towers of the nut. If the nut is torqued properly you are good to go.
10-31-2011, 12:39 PM
#6
Registered User
Thread Starter
billman, hecash, I appreciate the feedback!
Yes, the threads are intact above the cotter pin holes, and the castle nut had plenty of turns to bite into the threads. It's also torqued plenty and the pin is in place to prevent it from backing out...although new cotter pins are on the way.
It is good to hear that there's an actual ball joint part that will work and will be a cheap-ish fix. It seems to be a trend that crucial S2000 parts are bundled with others you don't need...classic case being the outer CV cups being sold as only an entire inner joint!
Yes, the threads are intact above the cotter pin holes, and the castle nut had plenty of turns to bite into the threads. It's also torqued plenty and the pin is in place to prevent it from backing out...although new cotter pins are on the way.
It is good to hear that there's an actual ball joint part that will work and will be a cheap-ish fix. It seems to be a trend that crucial S2000 parts are bundled with others you don't need...classic case being the outer CV cups being sold as only an entire inner joint!
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