Misfire at 8-9000rpm
#31
Heh, heh...you're gonna say, "well, no wonder!"
How many miles? 117,000
When did you do your valves last? If it's not part of Honda recommended maintenance, then probably never. If it is, then at 60,000
Does the valve train look good? Dunno. Never looked at it. The car eats a quart of oil every 1000mi under normal (no VTEC) driving. But, I'm in VTEC everyday so it eats a quart every 500 or so. It'll eat a half quart after a day of autocross, where I'm always above 6000rpm. I got it at 65,000miles. The previous owner drove in like a grandma. Never missed a shift, never a mechanical over-rev, never about 7000rpm. I did about 4 mech over-revs at between 65000-75000, never above 10,000rpm. Could have a cracked retainer from that I suppose, but no issues up to now.
Has a retainer cracked? Dunno. See answer above. I've been meaning to check, however I don't trust my eyes to look at the center of the retainer (I've read Billman's threads) because of my inexperience. I don't think my mechanic is detailed enough (he's just sort of a general mechanic, very good at what he does, but just general), and I don't know of anybody in the SoCal area who would help me take a look? Anybody?
Ran fuel cleaner (Techron) about 5 months ago before I had it smog tested.
Haven't relearned the ECU.
I drive 25,000 miles a year, so several tanks. I go to many places. Always name brand.
But know that you mentioned it...a station I go to very often had it's premium and medium grades offline the other day because of "maintenance". I say a repair guy using a pole with a big towel on the end dipping it into the tank edge and wiping it around, like he was cleaning or absorbing stuff.
Also, for the last 5 days, I've had no misfire. I was sort of intermittent anyway and had only started a week or so before that. I haven't had the misfire since I pulled the plugs to look at them. Perhaps it was water or other contaminants in the gas?
How many miles? 117,000
When did you do your valves last? If it's not part of Honda recommended maintenance, then probably never. If it is, then at 60,000
Does the valve train look good? Dunno. Never looked at it. The car eats a quart of oil every 1000mi under normal (no VTEC) driving. But, I'm in VTEC everyday so it eats a quart every 500 or so. It'll eat a half quart after a day of autocross, where I'm always above 6000rpm. I got it at 65,000miles. The previous owner drove in like a grandma. Never missed a shift, never a mechanical over-rev, never about 7000rpm. I did about 4 mech over-revs at between 65000-75000, never above 10,000rpm. Could have a cracked retainer from that I suppose, but no issues up to now.
Has a retainer cracked? Dunno. See answer above. I've been meaning to check, however I don't trust my eyes to look at the center of the retainer (I've read Billman's threads) because of my inexperience. I don't think my mechanic is detailed enough (he's just sort of a general mechanic, very good at what he does, but just general), and I don't know of anybody in the SoCal area who would help me take a look? Anybody?
Ran fuel cleaner (Techron) about 5 months ago before I had it smog tested.
Haven't relearned the ECU.
I drive 25,000 miles a year, so several tanks. I go to many places. Always name brand.
But know that you mentioned it...a station I go to very often had it's premium and medium grades offline the other day because of "maintenance". I say a repair guy using a pole with a big towel on the end dipping it into the tank edge and wiping it around, like he was cleaning or absorbing stuff.
Also, for the last 5 days, I've had no misfire. I was sort of intermittent anyway and had only started a week or so before that. I haven't had the misfire since I pulled the plugs to look at them. Perhaps it was water or other contaminants in the gas?
#32
Valves are to be adjusted 'when noisy, or every 100K' if never done start there.
An over-rev is beyond your red-line. If you over-rev the motor you need to check the retainers. Take pictures and ask for opinions. AP1 motors don't have much buffer, they are at the limit of the valve train at 9K. 9500rpm can do damage. 10K is sure to be a problem. billman knows best
Spark plugs need replacing every 100K.
Gas could be the problem. Water in gas very bad. Causes all sorts of issues.
I've purposely left the oil as it seems to be about right. 1Qt per 1000miles is spot on for that motor and within the honda norm. You might do a compression/leak down test but I would be looking at the valves/plugs/gas first.
An over-rev is beyond your red-line. If you over-rev the motor you need to check the retainers. Take pictures and ask for opinions. AP1 motors don't have much buffer, they are at the limit of the valve train at 9K. 9500rpm can do damage. 10K is sure to be a problem. billman knows best
Spark plugs need replacing every 100K.
Gas could be the problem. Water in gas very bad. Causes all sorts of issues.
I've purposely left the oil as it seems to be about right. 1Qt per 1000miles is spot on for that motor and within the honda norm. You might do a compression/leak down test but I would be looking at the valves/plugs/gas first.
#33
Many owners mention the Iridium spark plug mis-fire issue, and it appears to have happened to a number of S2k owners. I can't think of why an Iridium plug would mis-fire solely based on it's design compared to a platinum plug. I've run an Iridium plug for one year and so far so good, but I haven't put many miles on them yet.
My best guess is that if an issue does exist with Iridium plugs on this engine it would be related to the oil consumption characteristics of this engine. Iridium plugs feature a smaller center elecrrode by design, perhpas it fouls easier when oil is burned in the chamber. Perhaps a platinum plug runs hotter than an Iridium plug ?. Some things to consider. I think in all other respects an Iridium plug would work better than any other material, I just don't know if oil consumption throws a wrench into the isuse. Swapping plugs is still the easiest and least expensive daignosis/test you can start with.
My best guess is that if an issue does exist with Iridium plugs on this engine it would be related to the oil consumption characteristics of this engine. Iridium plugs feature a smaller center elecrrode by design, perhpas it fouls easier when oil is burned in the chamber. Perhaps a platinum plug runs hotter than an Iridium plug ?. Some things to consider. I think in all other respects an Iridium plug would work better than any other material, I just don't know if oil consumption throws a wrench into the isuse. Swapping plugs is still the easiest and least expensive daignosis/test you can start with.
#37
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voting for its ur plugs. my car had problems at high RPMs. here is a vid of what it sounded like. i changed the plugs and it went away.
my car redlined at 7600 cause bad plugs.[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EH4z_bEDamo [/media]
my car redlined at 7600 cause bad plugs.[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EH4z_bEDamo [/media]
#38
Originally Posted by MasterForce,Jan 3 2011, 07:14 AM
voting for its ur plugs. my car had problems at high RPMs. here is a vid of what it sounded like. i changed the plugs and it went away.
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rlaifatt
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10-27-2008 12:43 PM