Pinky

Well its not really test results but more of a definite difference between stock and well not.

Way back when I had my car totally stock I changed over to a K&N air filter(later to a JR)
* Air box was very very hot inside and out. To hot even to put your hand on the filter for more than 2 seconds.

Next I took out the factory air dam.
* Air box still hot inside and out though could hold hand on air filter without leaving grid lines seered into my skin.(still very hot)

I learned of this product Rubatex. Covered the inside entirely with it and the bottom of the air box up to lid.
* Air box top still hot but the sides and bottom are not. Inside the box is much cooler to the touch and the 2" area not covered is VERY HOT. Air filter is still hot slightly cooler than before. Also used it to seal up the intake hose to the air box.

Now I have the Mingster CAI totally sealed up the intake area with Rubatex and had it in for a week.
*Car has gotten used to the extra air as well as it being cooler. I had the car out for about 35-45 min of driving. Not only stop and go but highway. Took the car home popped the hood felt the very top of the CAI right before the box was hot but nothing else really was on the CAI. I open the box and feel the filter..........ITS COLD! Not warm but cold......colder than the seats in my car it was amazing!!!!

I can't give any time trials or HP gains but its faster on the highway and definitly is keeping the intake temps through the filter at ambient temp. not the temp in the sun the real temp in the shade!!!!!!!!!!

Prolene

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Pinky
[B]*

rstark

Please post some pictures of how you installed/applied the rubitex.

tantheman

I concur; please post pics of your work so that others may benefit. I really want to do something like this without voiding my extended warranty.

Tan

ultimate lurker

If anyone wants to do real world testing here in SoCal, I still have a Vericom 2000 lying around the house. It's like a bigger, more advanced G-tech. It allows interval testing (30-70 mph for example) and other stuff. It would be very simple to do a baseline test, go back and quickly swap in Mingster's intake and then retest on the same road within 30 minutes to avoid changes in conditions, etc. We can even get hp estimates if we enter in car weight.

Something to think about. An extended pull in a single gear would eliminate shifting and launching variance and give a really accurate accounting of the benefit. I'm thinking maybe 20-65 in 2nd gear, along with a 45-65 run to try and isolate gains below and above VTEC.

UL

Tedster

UL,

that's exactly what I'm looking for. Thanks for offering your help.

Anyone willing to be the Guinea pig?

Thanks,

Ted

Pinky

[QUOTE]Originally posted by ultimate lurker
[B]If anyone wants to do real world testing here in SoCal, I still have a Vericom 2000 lying around the house.

mingster

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Pinky
[B]

Only thing that waves a flag at me for this after having it in my car for a while is the damn ECU!

ultimate lurker

Pinky,

I agree that ECU learning strategies are an issue. There are several ways to look at it.

1. Good products will show gains very quickly. When I installed the Mugen header on my car I dyno'd, put the car up on a lift, let it cool for 30-40 minutes and installed the header. I drove it around the block, put it back on the dyno and saw gains. Might there have been more after some learning time? Sure, but gains did show up instantly.

2. Add some additional tests. This time of year in SoCal, the weather is pretty consistent. We can run the immediate before and after test and then come back the next day at the same time and see if the car improves further.

3. ECU reset. We can speed the learning process by resetting the ECU and driving 10-15 miles after the install.

UL

Pinky

Read UL's comments above!