Mg Racing Sc?
#61
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Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: MP Tuning, Atlanta
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In fact I have over 30 PPL on a waiting list, I would love to get the results so we can get the g/b going.
Until then I will post them when they are installed
Until then I will post them when they are installed
#62
[QUOTE]Originally posted by OneQuickS2K
[B]just thinking.... back then when I have the B18C1 GS-R motor, I have
a root-type SC (JRSC @ 6psi) and Jacking Racing came out soon later
with a JRSC for the Type-R B18C5 motor. However, the boost level
was about 1psi lower than the GS-R motor due to the compression ratio.
The USDM Type-R's CR is 10.6:1 and GSR is slightly lower (10.0:1?), I talked to Jacking Racing and they say the reason they lower the boost
level is because the root-type SC kicks in real fast (low-end power) so
the they have to lower the boost on the Type-R motor.
Now the question is, since our F20C motor has a 11.0:1 compression
[B]just thinking.... back then when I have the B18C1 GS-R motor, I have
a root-type SC (JRSC @ 6psi) and Jacking Racing came out soon later
with a JRSC for the Type-R B18C5 motor. However, the boost level
was about 1psi lower than the GS-R motor due to the compression ratio.
The USDM Type-R's CR is 10.6:1 and GSR is slightly lower (10.0:1?), I talked to Jacking Racing and they say the reason they lower the boost
level is because the root-type SC kicks in real fast (low-end power) so
the they have to lower the boost on the Type-R motor.
Now the question is, since our F20C motor has a 11.0:1 compression
#64
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Location: Studio City, CA
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My friend (I know, you all hate "my friend stories", but I worked on this car extensively and it was my best friend's car, so it's not one of those "my friend's brother's roomate had this kit..." stories) had a SOHC d16z6 with a jackson blower. The sudden boost was indeed a problem for detonation management. Since the boost comes on suddenly, the ecu didn't seem able to react/compensate fast enough and he had detonation when you first punched the throttle. He had a JS knocksensor, but it wasn't able to handle this unless he set the car REALLY rich and set the knock sensor REALLY sensitive (ie. if you fart while driving the car, the knock sensor would pull some timing out of the motor).
The major problem we had with the kit, however, was that it rubbed on a high pressure fuel line. We didn't know about this and fortunately, my friend found it before it got him or both of us killed... The noticed his belt was wearing out (this happened a lot). So he took the belt off to replace it and found the pully was also worn out (this also happened a lot). Then he noticed the brackets for the pully were breaking. So he pulled the blower and saw that the bottom of the blower had been rubbing on the fuel line and was a fraction of a millimiter away from making a nice little hole in it. Spraying pressurized gas on a hot engine bay is not good.
Jackson Racing.
The major problem we had with the kit, however, was that it rubbed on a high pressure fuel line. We didn't know about this and fortunately, my friend found it before it got him or both of us killed... The noticed his belt was wearing out (this happened a lot). So he took the belt off to replace it and found the pully was also worn out (this also happened a lot). Then he noticed the brackets for the pully were breaking. So he pulled the blower and saw that the bottom of the blower had been rubbing on the fuel line and was a fraction of a millimiter away from making a nice little hole in it. Spraying pressurized gas on a hot engine bay is not good.
Jackson Racing.
#66
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My friend did the install himself (we do all the work on our cars except for body work and wheel alignment). There just wasn't any mention of it in the instructions and it wasn't an obvious thing. But it was just close enough to rub on an edge of the blower. Had we noticed the rubbing, it probably would have required a custom-fabricated fuel line to work around it. That high pressure fuel line used banjo fittings, so it wasn't just something we could replace with some autozone generic hose.
#69
Registered User
Just for reference, I have the JR kit on a CRX. Originally on a D16A6 engine and now on a D16Y8 engine. Never any problems with fuel hoses, et al.
However, the kit is not perfect as delivered (few FI kits ever seem to be IMO - Comptech, nope; DRAG, nope; etc.).
1. Belt tension is extremely critical. Too tight and you'll wear things out. Too loose and you'll slip the belt and lose power. I use a spring loaded tension gauge to determine my tension and check it at every oil change. No problems now and I'm running an 8 psi kit (with a wider belt than the original D16A belt).
2. Early pulleys and brackets would wear out in 25-30k miles. JR replaced them all for free to my knowledge. The new pieces have been very durable for me.
3. Tuning - if you want to truly maximize the JR kit, you must have aftermarket fuel/ignition management. I went to a Zdyne ECU and 450 cc injectors and the car runs flawlessly (ask the poor S2K guys at T-hill that I passed on the straight :-). It allows you to properly fuel and time the engine for boost without the rising rate FPR and massive ignition retard. Makes it run like a factory FI car IMO. And, I had no problem passing emissions. Without the Zdyne, I was making 15-20 less in most areas and tip in detonation, as described by the Rev, was a problem.
4. Boost upgrades - you can't run more than about 8 psi on the D16 kit because the blower starts spinning too fast and making too much heat. Really needs an intercooler. That's the disadvantage of Roots blowers, especially non-intercooled ones.
Moral of the story? FI is fun, but you should always - 1. Have proper engine management 2. Intercooling.
Kits that don't have this don't get my vote of approval, no matter how much power they make on paper.
UL
[QUOTE]Originally posted by The Reverend
[B]My friend (I know, you all hate "my friend stories", but I worked on this car extensively and it was my best friend's car, so it's not one of those "my friend's brother's roomate had this kit..." stories) had a SOHC d16z6 with a jackson blower.
However, the kit is not perfect as delivered (few FI kits ever seem to be IMO - Comptech, nope; DRAG, nope; etc.).
1. Belt tension is extremely critical. Too tight and you'll wear things out. Too loose and you'll slip the belt and lose power. I use a spring loaded tension gauge to determine my tension and check it at every oil change. No problems now and I'm running an 8 psi kit (with a wider belt than the original D16A belt).
2. Early pulleys and brackets would wear out in 25-30k miles. JR replaced them all for free to my knowledge. The new pieces have been very durable for me.
3. Tuning - if you want to truly maximize the JR kit, you must have aftermarket fuel/ignition management. I went to a Zdyne ECU and 450 cc injectors and the car runs flawlessly (ask the poor S2K guys at T-hill that I passed on the straight :-). It allows you to properly fuel and time the engine for boost without the rising rate FPR and massive ignition retard. Makes it run like a factory FI car IMO. And, I had no problem passing emissions. Without the Zdyne, I was making 15-20 less in most areas and tip in detonation, as described by the Rev, was a problem.
4. Boost upgrades - you can't run more than about 8 psi on the D16 kit because the blower starts spinning too fast and making too much heat. Really needs an intercooler. That's the disadvantage of Roots blowers, especially non-intercooled ones.
Moral of the story? FI is fun, but you should always - 1. Have proper engine management 2. Intercooling.
Kits that don't have this don't get my vote of approval, no matter how much power they make on paper.
UL
[QUOTE]Originally posted by The Reverend
[B]My friend (I know, you all hate "my friend stories", but I worked on this car extensively and it was my best friend's car, so it's not one of those "my friend's brother's roomate had this kit..." stories) had a SOHC d16z6 with a jackson blower.