zeroptzero

Looks great thanks for posting, we don't see many runs with that oil on s2000's, nice to see it.

jkelley

I ran that oil for 4 or 5 OCIs, I have WIX UOA's for two of them i think so if it's helpful I'll post mine as well. I thought it was a common s2k oil. I LOVED the stuff, my UOAs were great, and it always had great life remaining when I changed it. I switched to the castrol edge syntec gold due to popularity and majority opinion that it's basically the best oil aside from going AMSOIL.

Bror Jace

Thanks Nissanfanatic. Your report looks good. How much did you have to shell out for the Motul 300V? Is that their ester-blended synthetic?

I was fine with using Pennzoil Platinum ... saw the Pennzoil Ultra on clearance ($20 for a 5 quart jug) and could not resist. Also, my oil showed great results for a slightly longer interval showing that you do not need to go to a 40 weight to keep wear down. I might stick with a 40 weight if I were you if your oil temps are really climbing on track days. My driving was very hard ... but not quite so intense.

My first UOA shown on my report was actually Pennzoil High Mileage.

I refilled the car with Chevron Supreme synthetic 10W30.

Oh, and I convert the PDF to a JPEG so I can redact my personal info. For the future, I would suggest you do the same ... even if the end result is not quite as nice to look at.

nissanfanatic

About $15 a quart.

It provides an oil analysis that looks similar to street driving. So, it basically provides street driving levels of wear for track driving.

If I didn't track my car or if I only did street pulls, I would run 0w-40 Mobil 1 no questions; you can't beat $25/gal at Wally World. Motul is way too expensive if you are just doing street driving.

bgoetz

What do you guys think of the representativeness of samples from high consumption engines? I am a 1qt/1k guy and got the attached from Blackstone. They didn't seem worried in the least in a separate email that I had with them, I even indicated high consumption.

nissanfanatic

I also cut open my oil filter regularly. That may be a better indicator of an issue for you.

Otherwise, one of my samples is at 1800 miles on the sheet I posted above. Maybe you can overfill and stretch it to 1800 miles and compare to mine...

bgoetz

Do you have a particular method to cutting it open or do you just cut it in half (I assume you want to avoid getting shavings from cutting into the filter to confuse things)?? Also, any advice on what to look for, obviously metals, but I assume there is a bit more to it than that?

nissanfanatic

I use a filter cutter. There are two that you can get on Amazon Prime for about $60.

I always see maybe a couple very small flakes in my filter. You will be able to tell if something is wrong; you'll see some metal.

Also, do a UOA in combination with looking at the filter. I have found that with any piece of equipment, you have to establish what is normal for that particular equipment. Obvious problems are typically just that, obvious.

BTW, a good trick for inspecting the filter element is to stack the element up like a compressed accordion, wrap it in a rag, and compress it in a vice really hard. That will squeeze all the oil out and you will get a better look at the element for metal content.