Metallic/grinding saw like noise coming from rear after new (used) diff installed
08-30-2014, 07:03 PM
#11
Maybe someone else can chime in here, but I have heard a lot of shops will overfill these diffs. Overfilling is anything over a level car letting some excess spill out of the fill plug once you get to 'full'. I've heard of shops/dealers dipping the noise down to "get the oil in therrr' rill gud..." The vapor space above the oil then overcompresses and causes hydrostactic pressures to mess up some junk in the diff. It's not good for these diffs to my knowledge.
08-31-2014, 10:50 AM
#13
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Unfortunately, yes. It's kind of scary. I had to do it to pinpoint my own tail shaft bearing was shot. The risk is very manageable if:
1. Your engine should be running well and without any major concern or anything bogging out and shifting the car too wildly.
2. Jack up only the rear, much safer in my personal opinion
3. USE WHEEL CHOCKS on the front wheels
4. Follow what I said above
Wait for someone else to confirm my recommendations if it freaks you out. It freaked me out the first time too lol. But it's really not that bad after the fact. wouldn't hesitate to do it again.
1. Your engine should be running well and without any major concern or anything bogging out and shifting the car too wildly.
2. Jack up only the rear, much safer in my personal opinion
3. USE WHEEL CHOCKS on the front wheels
4. Follow what I said above
Wait for someone else to confirm my recommendations if it freaks you out. It freaked me out the first time too lol. But it's really not that bad after the fact. wouldn't hesitate to do it again.
DON'T DO THIS
Strike One and you're dead.
That is the opposite of manageable risk.
Be afraid. Be very afraid.
You have little experience or knowledge in this area, thus no basis for judgement of what is safe.
Cheap jack stands are unstable under vibration and torquing from engine loads.
They tip easily and don't prevent the car from sliding sideways.
Good jack stands are less unstable. If that sounds like faint praise, you got the point.
Wheel chocks don't prevent sideways slipping.
A mechanic would do it only on a hydraulic lift with frame supported on all corners,
and a lift capable of catching the car if a lift point slipped.
have a S2000 dinner meet to attend but I will be in contact with you at your best availability 
09-01-2014, 08:04 AM
#16
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This was said to throw you off, and it's something sad that happens in the automotive industry all the time.
It is most likely your new dif is defective right from the start, and your noise in your vid is a bad differential pinion bearing.
The fluid you pictured/used is correct and is not the cause of your problem.
VTM-4 and Dual-Pump Honda fluids are the ones that can destroy the S2000 dif in one day.
It's time for them to man up, and admit it.
Make a deal with them to work out the labor and cost. Get one of your difs (preferably the one currently in the car) to S2KPUDDYDAD and have it built right the first time. He has likely built more S2000 differentials than anyone in the world.
09-01-2014, 09:00 AM
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Originally Posted by mintswack' timestamp='1409362240' post='23308288
He said it couldn't be the differential because any odd noises would only be apparent while making turns and while not going straight
This was said to throw you off, and it's something sad that happens in the automotive industry all the time.
It is most likely your new dif is defective right from the start, and your noise in your vid is a bad differential pinion bearing.
The fluid you pictured/used is correct and is not the cause of your problem.
VTM-4 and Dual-Pump Honda fluids are the ones that can destroy the S2000 dif in one day.
It's time for them to man up, and admit it.
Make a deal with them to work out the labor and cost. Get one of your difs (preferably the one currently in the car) to S2KPUDDYDAD and have it built right the first time. He has likely built more S2000 differentials than anyone in the world.
I'll definitely give them a call tomorrow. They were closed this weekend and closed for labor day. Now I'm just wondering how difficult he's going to be regarding this warranty. Thanks for the info!
09-01-2014, 04:05 PM
#19
I received a report suggesting that the advice given about jacking the car up and getting underneath was unsafe.
There is some merit in this. If not done extremely carefully there is the possibility of injury or even death, so I think the advice needs to be padded out with some extra points.
Firstly, if you don't have experience working on cars, find someone who does.
Only jack up the car on extremely stable ground (concrete).
Use a trolley jack to lift the car but support it on two stable jack stands. As you are jacking up the rear the subframe rails are good points to place the jack stands.
Chock front wheels (preferably fore and aft)
Before starting the car ensure it is stable. Push it from the side. Get in it and jump up and down. If it's going to collapse better if it's not running.
Sit in driver's seat a start the car out of gear. Any shaking will show how much movement you can expect.
Clutch in, engage gear, clutch out slowly. Be prepared to shut down.
Only then should you prepare to get under the car. But be aware there are two big rubber and metal things spinning nearby and they don't give a damn about you.
Anyone have additions to these points let me know.
And if any of this surprises or scares you, take to some one who has done this sort of thing before. It's quite daunting being in a confined space under a running motor vehicle.
There is some merit in this. If not done extremely carefully there is the possibility of injury or even death, so I think the advice needs to be padded out with some extra points.
Firstly, if you don't have experience working on cars, find someone who does.
Only jack up the car on extremely stable ground (concrete).
Use a trolley jack to lift the car but support it on two stable jack stands. As you are jacking up the rear the subframe rails are good points to place the jack stands.
Chock front wheels (preferably fore and aft)
Before starting the car ensure it is stable. Push it from the side. Get in it and jump up and down. If it's going to collapse better if it's not running.
Sit in driver's seat a start the car out of gear. Any shaking will show how much movement you can expect.
Clutch in, engage gear, clutch out slowly. Be prepared to shut down.
Only then should you prepare to get under the car. But be aware there are two big rubber and metal things spinning nearby and they don't give a damn about you.
Anyone have additions to these points let me know.
And if any of this surprises or scares you, take to some one who has done this sort of thing before. It's quite daunting being in a confined space under a running motor vehicle.
09-02-2014, 05:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Gregg Lee' timestamp='1409511019' post='23309827
DON'T DO THIS
There is some merit in this. If not done extremely carefully there is the possibility of injury or even death, so I think the advice needs to be padded out with some extra points.
Firstly, if you don't have experience working on cars, find someone who does.
Only jack up the car on extremely stable ground (concrete).
Use a trolley jack to lift the car but support it on two stable jack stands. As you are jacking up the rear the subframe rails are good points to place the jack stands.
Chock front wheels (preferably fore and aft)
Before starting the car ensure it is stable. Push it from the side. Get in it and jump up and down. If it's going to collapse better if it's not running.
Sit in driver's seat a start the car out of gear. Any shaking will show how much movement you can expect.
Clutch in, engage gear, clutch out slowly. Be prepared to shut down.
Only then should you prepare to get under the car. But be aware there are two big rubber and metal things spinning nearby and they don't give a damn about you.
Anyone have additions to these points let me know.
And if any of this surprises or scares you, take to some one who has done this sort of thing before. It's quite daunting being in a confined space under a running motor vehicle.