Metal Chunk in Diff
03-31-2012, 05:22 AM
#32
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03-31-2012, 11:47 AM
#34
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Noise. Either whining or clicking/ banging. Whining is usually first as things loosen up, or a tooth looses a small piece. It goes south from there. Usually a loud crack is heard and you have a few miles to a few seconds of usage after that.
04-01-2012, 01:24 AM
#35
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One can see the diff as 2 items: the final drive and the Torsen LSD.
A bad final drive will do what SgtB said.
The Torsen can - and will - change the behavior, aka handeling of the car.
Especially during cornering.
During corner enrty leading into half way into the turn it can give the car what feels like understeer - front does not want to get into the corner.
It isn't understeer in the traditional FWD style, its the inner rear wheel getting more torque than it needs, its like it wants to spin as fast as the outer wheel and it pushes the front out of the turn.
This is most noticable in tight, relatively slow corners where you can get on the throttle soon.
During corner exit it does feel more like oversteer, the rear wants to make a wider turn.
RWD is more likely to oversteer by default, this is like a power oversteer without the power.
If you then lift the trottle you could end up at the curb - or worse - especially in an AP1.
Diff oil plays a (IMO huge) role in this.
(actually, Torsen themselves admit oil can change the torque bias, how the unit distributes torque to the wheels when they spin at different speeds)
The better the oil is able to allow parts in the unit to spin at different rpm under - high - load, the closer to the original Tosen behavior you stay.
You can change diff oil by milage or time, the last 2 times I changed it when I started to notice this handeling " issue".
Fresh oil fixed it straight away.
A bad final drive will do what SgtB said.
The Torsen can - and will - change the behavior, aka handeling of the car.
Especially during cornering.
During corner enrty leading into half way into the turn it can give the car what feels like understeer - front does not want to get into the corner.
It isn't understeer in the traditional FWD style, its the inner rear wheel getting more torque than it needs, its like it wants to spin as fast as the outer wheel and it pushes the front out of the turn.
This is most noticable in tight, relatively slow corners where you can get on the throttle soon.
During corner exit it does feel more like oversteer, the rear wants to make a wider turn.
RWD is more likely to oversteer by default, this is like a power oversteer without the power.
If you then lift the trottle you could end up at the curb - or worse - especially in an AP1.
Diff oil plays a (IMO huge) role in this.
(actually, Torsen themselves admit oil can change the torque bias, how the unit distributes torque to the wheels when they spin at different speeds)
The better the oil is able to allow parts in the unit to spin at different rpm under - high - load, the closer to the original Tosen behavior you stay.
You can change diff oil by milage or time, the last 2 times I changed it when I started to notice this handeling " issue".
Fresh oil fixed it straight away.
04-01-2012, 05:37 PM
#36
There are 4 washers inside the factory LSD one at each end and two in the middle. The 2 on each end are locked into the housing and the 2 center that lock into the 8 planetary gears. The little ears of these washers are what you guys are finding. The little ears are what keeps things in place.....if the little ears break off it will allow the washers to spin. This will affect the locking of the LSD as well as cause friction (heat) of the free spinning washer(s) inside the LSD.
Unfortunately Honda does not sell replacement parts for the LSD, the LSD is sold as a unit. I do have many good LSD washers in stock i remove from damaged units that I use to fix this issue when I come across it.
If you only find one ear and the car is just used for pleasure driving (Daily use) you should be fine. If you find 2 or more you will want to replace the washers or replace the LSD it's self. If you find one or more ears and the car is used on the track you will want to repair or replace the LSD ASAP.
Unfortunately Honda does not sell replacement parts for the LSD, the LSD is sold as a unit. I do have many good LSD washers in stock i remove from damaged units that I use to fix this issue when I come across it.
If you only find one ear and the car is just used for pleasure driving (Daily use) you should be fine. If you find 2 or more you will want to replace the washers or replace the LSD it's self. If you find one or more ears and the car is used on the track you will want to repair or replace the LSD ASAP.
04-04-2012, 10:18 AM
#37
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Any sign of overload, too much heat, anything?
Do you ever find damaged washers - or reports from customers finding ears - in diffs you have worked on, rebuild, serviced?
04-04-2012, 10:26 AM
#38
Registered User
There are 4 washers inside the factory LSD one at each end and two in the middle. The 2 on each end are locked into the housing and the 2 center that lock into the 8 planetary gears. The little ears of these washers are what you guys are finding. The little ears are what keeps things in place.....if the little ears break off it will allow the washers to spin. This will affect the locking of the LSD as well as cause friction (heat) of the free spinning washer(s) inside the LSD.
Unfortunately Honda does not sell replacement parts for the LSD, the LSD is sold as a unit. I do have many good LSD washers in stock i remove from damaged units that I use to fix this issue when I come across it.
If you only find one ear and the car is just used for pleasure driving (Daily use) you should be fine. If you find 2 or more you will want to replace the washers or replace the LSD it's self. If you find one or more ears and the car is used on the track you will want to repair or replace the LSD ASAP.
Unfortunately Honda does not sell replacement parts for the LSD, the LSD is sold as a unit. I do have many good LSD washers in stock i remove from damaged units that I use to fix this issue when I come across it.
If you only find one ear and the car is just used for pleasure driving (Daily use) you should be fine. If you find 2 or more you will want to replace the washers or replace the LSD it's self. If you find one or more ears and the car is used on the track you will want to repair or replace the LSD ASAP.
04-06-2012, 12:22 AM
#40
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For an OEM diff, OEM power?
Stay away from the polular, easy to find, multi grade SAE 75W-90 oils.
Simply because they are too fas off the original single grade SAE 90 GL-5/6 OEM recommendation - long story but its a fact.
There are not many (if any) single grade SAE 90 GL-5 oils on the market.
LE-1605 - sold by site supporter - is a direct replacement, it is a single grade, semi syn SAE 110 GL-5.
If you want / need to use a multi grade (cold mornings) Amsoil SG SAE 75W-110 GL-5 is an (as far as I know, the only) option in the multi grade SAE 110 range.
(You could kill 3 birds with one stone by using Amsoil engine oil & trans oil too - good stuff
)
Next range up is SAE 75W-140 GL-5, produced by several brands.
Boosted?
SAE 75W-140 GL-5 would be my minimun spec.
Stay away from the polular, easy to find, multi grade SAE 75W-90 oils.
Simply because they are too fas off the original single grade SAE 90 GL-5/6 OEM recommendation - long story but its a fact.
There are not many (if any) single grade SAE 90 GL-5 oils on the market.
LE-1605 - sold by site supporter - is a direct replacement, it is a single grade, semi syn SAE 110 GL-5.
If you want / need to use a multi grade (cold mornings) Amsoil SG SAE 75W-110 GL-5 is an (as far as I know, the only) option in the multi grade SAE 110 range.
(You could kill 3 birds with one stone by using Amsoil engine oil & trans oil too - good stuff
)Next range up is SAE 75W-140 GL-5, produced by several brands.
Boosted?
SAE 75W-140 GL-5 would be my minimun spec.