Master Cylinder leaking. Replace Slave as well?
#1
Master Cylinder leaking. Replace Slave as well?
So I always had clutch problems like after I got my car. I didnt know it was bad because I havent drove a manual in about 2 years. A friend of mine told me to lower my clutch engagement because its real high and I went to do that and I noticed it was leaking by the pedal.
I checked my clutch fluid and its dark. I just flushed it and put new one in. It helped a bit but now I need to change my master cylinder asap. Im wondering should I change my Slave as well? It looked like the clutch fluid was never changed in its life. -72k miles. Im thinking there will be thick clutch fluid deposits stuck on the slave cylinder which would be bad.
Any ideas?
Also any one know how much it will cost to replace both. I read just googling and people say it costs $800?
I checked my clutch fluid and its dark. I just flushed it and put new one in. It helped a bit but now I need to change my master cylinder asap. Im wondering should I change my Slave as well? It looked like the clutch fluid was never changed in its life. -72k miles. Im thinking there will be thick clutch fluid deposits stuck on the slave cylinder which would be bad.
Any ideas?
Also any one know how much it will cost to replace both. I read just googling and people say it costs $800?
#2
It is possible both will clear up with new fluid as the seals go back to normal. But if you're going to replace the master, replace the slave too. You can buy both parts for like 140 if you have jack stands. Just onbolt both, replace, and gravity bleed. SUPER easy.
#3
Moderator
90% of S2000 clutch MCs leak, so give it time it will likely stop. Change the clutch fluid every 4k. You will find its cleaner each time.
I have also found using ATE super blue literally quadruples the life of the clutch fluid. It took some time to prove this, I have 25k on the blue stuff. I sucked it out yesterday, and there was 0 sludge in the bottom of the master.
This has proven true for my customers as well.
There is ONLY ONE reason for a high grabbing clutch on an S2000, and that is a worn disc. Put the adjustment back where it belongs.
I have also found using ATE super blue literally quadruples the life of the clutch fluid. It took some time to prove this, I have 25k on the blue stuff. I sucked it out yesterday, and there was 0 sludge in the bottom of the master.
This has proven true for my customers as well.
There is ONLY ONE reason for a high grabbing clutch on an S2000, and that is a worn disc. Put the adjustment back where it belongs.
#4
I had the same issue with clutch engagement. It would grab right before the pedal came all the way up, but it also slipped when shifting in the higher rpm.
I first suggest finding out if your clutch is bad and go from there. In my case, I ordered a new master and salve when ordering my clutch kit. Reason being, I flushed the fluid and after a couple of canyon runs, it looked like apple cider. I cleaned out the master and added new fluid and about a week later, again it looked like three year old fluid.
If you are going to replace the master, do the salve as well. Don't let one ruin the other.
I first suggest finding out if your clutch is bad and go from there. In my case, I ordered a new master and salve when ordering my clutch kit. Reason being, I flushed the fluid and after a couple of canyon runs, it looked like apple cider. I cleaned out the master and added new fluid and about a week later, again it looked like three year old fluid.
If you are going to replace the master, do the salve as well. Don't let one ruin the other.
#5
I had the same issue with clutch engagement. It would grab right before the pedal came all the way up, but it also slipped when shifting in the higher rpm.
I first suggest finding out if your clutch is bad and go from there. In my case, I ordered a new master and salve when ordering my clutch kit. Reason being, I flushed the fluid and after a couple of canyon runs, it looked like apple cider. I cleaned out the master and added new fluid and about a week later, again it looked like three year old fluid.
If you are going to replace the master, do the salve as well. Don't let one ruin the other.
I first suggest finding out if your clutch is bad and go from there. In my case, I ordered a new master and salve when ordering my clutch kit. Reason being, I flushed the fluid and after a couple of canyon runs, it looked like apple cider. I cleaned out the master and added new fluid and about a week later, again it looked like three year old fluid.
If you are going to replace the master, do the salve as well. Don't let one ruin the other.
#6
Originally Posted by Misha7869' timestamp='1373644023' post='22662300
I had the same issue with clutch engagement. It would grab right before the pedal came all the way up, but it also slipped when shifting in the higher rpm.
I first suggest finding out if your clutch is bad and go from there. In my case, I ordered a new master and salve when ordering my clutch kit. Reason being, I flushed the fluid and after a couple of canyon runs, it looked like apple cider. I cleaned out the master and added new fluid and about a week later, again it looked like three year old fluid.
If you are going to replace the master, do the salve as well. Don't let one ruin the other.
I first suggest finding out if your clutch is bad and go from there. In my case, I ordered a new master and salve when ordering my clutch kit. Reason being, I flushed the fluid and after a couple of canyon runs, it looked like apple cider. I cleaned out the master and added new fluid and about a week later, again it looked like three year old fluid.
If you are going to replace the master, do the salve as well. Don't let one ruin the other.
If the clutch fluid has not been changed in a long time, the deposits will eat way at both the master and slave internals, which is the reason most of them go bad or leak. So for example; if your master was leaking and you saw that your fluid is really dark, chances are your slave has been affected as well. If you change your master and see that the fluid becomes dark fairly quickly, your slave needs to be replaced. In that situation, if you don't replace your salve, you will end up replacing both in now time.
In his case, if the clutch ends up being bad and the master needs to be replaced, you might as well spend another $60 on a new slave. No reason to pull things apart more than once, plus he would be starting with an entirely fresh system.
#7
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Same issues with my 00' I did the master Cylinder flush a few times as per billmans instructions, fluid nice clear now but when I press the clutch sometimes it doesnt feel consistent when I press, feels like im pushing the fluid then suddenly the pressure changes. Saw that it was leaking into the car so gonna get new slave and master.
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#8
Community Organizer
Excelent topic! When I drove my car last Friday their was hardly any resistance from the clutch until pressing 1/2 way down. After getting home I checked my fluid and it was very low. I added some super blue and gravity bled the system to remove and air. I also took the time to lubricate the Slave. After doing these things I drove it and noticed the engagement point had changed and there is now some play when I press down on the clutch (before there was little/none); I could press the pedal with my hand and I saw the rod push about 1/2" into the CMC before I felt resistance. After the drive I also looked under the dash and saw that there was some fresh fluid leaking from the CMC already. Is this an indication that my CMC is almost shot. If so, as the op had asked, is it necessary to replace the Slave as well?
FWIW, my clutch fluid was replaced less than 4,000 miles ago with Ate Superblue.
FWIW, my clutch fluid was replaced less than 4,000 miles ago with Ate Superblue.
#10
all u gotta do is adjust the clutch pedal. get down there "if you can fit lol" then behind the clutch pedal loosen bolt and spin the rod. retight and go for a spin and see how it feels.