Master clutch and slave cylinder
#1
Master clutch and slave cylinder
Good evening gentlemen,
My mechanic told me that I need a "clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder rebuild kit", I dropped an email to our local Honda dealer and they sent me a quote for the whole set instead of the rebuild kit. Do you know whether Honda makes those kind of kits for the S2000. If so do you have a part number handy?
Also,
I am checking on ebay for the Master clutch cylinder and the slave clutch cylinder as a second option, (on ebay the parts are way cheaper from what I got quoted).
I noticed that certain listings have written that the slave cylinder will fit only on 2000-2003 models while the master clutch cylinder fits from 2000-2009. There are also listings which states that the slave cylinder fits from 2000-2009. who is correct?
My car is 2004 AP1 F20C-2 (EU market) - Facelift model.
Thanks,
My mechanic told me that I need a "clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder rebuild kit", I dropped an email to our local Honda dealer and they sent me a quote for the whole set instead of the rebuild kit. Do you know whether Honda makes those kind of kits for the S2000. If so do you have a part number handy?
Also,
I am checking on ebay for the Master clutch cylinder and the slave clutch cylinder as a second option, (on ebay the parts are way cheaper from what I got quoted).
I noticed that certain listings have written that the slave cylinder will fit only on 2000-2003 models while the master clutch cylinder fits from 2000-2009. There are also listings which states that the slave cylinder fits from 2000-2009. who is correct?
My car is 2004 AP1 F20C-2 (EU market) - Facelift model.
Thanks,
#2
No rebuild kits available as far as I know.
The slave will bolt up all years. The difference is the ap2 contains a delay valve, which some just remove anyway. You can use either version, it will work.
But, what symptoms are you experiencing? Its not common for the slave to go bad. The master will leak if fluid not maintained well. Sometimes just changing the fluid to fresh resolves the leak. Other times its so far gone the master does need replacing. Seems overkill to think both mc and slave need replacing.
Best practice is a full fluid swap, then every other oil change or so, turkey baster out fluid from mc, wipe it clean, add fresh fluid. This will prevent future mc leaks.
The slave will bolt up all years. The difference is the ap2 contains a delay valve, which some just remove anyway. You can use either version, it will work.
But, what symptoms are you experiencing? Its not common for the slave to go bad. The master will leak if fluid not maintained well. Sometimes just changing the fluid to fresh resolves the leak. Other times its so far gone the master does need replacing. Seems overkill to think both mc and slave need replacing.
Best practice is a full fluid swap, then every other oil change or so, turkey baster out fluid from mc, wipe it clean, add fresh fluid. This will prevent future mc leaks.
#3
The symptom is leak although he topped up the fluid and the level remained the same (in approx. 10 days). As for the slave cylinder, could it be that it has the same life time of a master cylinder?
As for the delay valve, the only cons is that it might stress the differential, gearbox etc on hard shifting. Am I correct?
As for the delay valve, the only cons is that it might stress the differential, gearbox etc on hard shifting. Am I correct?
#4
The symptom is leak although he topped up the fluid and the level remained the same (in approx. 10 days). As for the slave cylinder, could it be that it has the same life time of a master cylinder?
As for the delay valve, the only cons is that it might stress the differential, gearbox etc on hard shifting. Am I correct?
As for the delay valve, the only cons is that it might stress the differential, gearbox etc on hard shifting. Am I correct?
#5
I recently changed my master cylinder due to a leak, and it cost around $70 for an OEM from Amazon. An OEM slave should go around that much too. Just look up some DIY's and you should be able to change it in an hour or so.
First look where your clutch pedal is and check to see if you notice any leaks or fluid dripping from the master cylinder. If you don't see any leaks and the clutch fluid is gradually getting low, it is probably the slave cylinder. You can go ahead and change both, but just changing the part that is leaking should fix your problem.
You don't even have to jack the car up to change the master cylinder, but you will have to jack it up to bleed the clutch after.
First look where your clutch pedal is and check to see if you notice any leaks or fluid dripping from the master cylinder. If you don't see any leaks and the clutch fluid is gradually getting low, it is probably the slave cylinder. You can go ahead and change both, but just changing the part that is leaking should fix your problem.
You don't even have to jack the car up to change the master cylinder, but you will have to jack it up to bleed the clutch after.
#7
I've heard of guys even using the centric brand master cylinders and having no issues (these are like $40 on ebay). The Adler/Nissin one is OEM I believe and they will be significantly cheaper than what Honda will quote you.
I should have a nice video on how to swap the master cylinder soon.
I should have a nice video on how to swap the master cylinder soon.
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#8
Originally Posted by CarloBrincat' timestamp='1443312222' post='23758716
Thankyou guys!
I should have a nice video on how to swap the master cylinder soon.
Cheers. Honda quoted me 300 + for both cylinders. However my mechanic found a way to find and replace the seals only. Now my issue is that the clutch pedal seems to be very stiff, I guess that it is because he changed the fluid and bleed it correctly. The problem is that I am now experiencing clutch slipping on low revs. I checked on this forum and someone said that it might be causing this because of the clutch pedal setting.. though the pedal has tiny little play (a millimeter or so..)
Clutch was replaced with Competition Stage 2 together with light flywheel 15000km ago.
#10
When I drive the car when it is still cold, there is no clutch slipping, however after 15 mins of driving, the clutch starts slipping getting worse by time.
Here's a video of the clutch slipping... That is on full throttle (without releasing my foot)
https://youtu.be/oLJx7G1_b9M
Here's a video of the clutch slipping... That is on full throttle (without releasing my foot)
https://youtu.be/oLJx7G1_b9M
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ktwenty
S2000 Under The Hood
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11-09-2014 12:23 PM