Malfunction light after cold v-tec!?
#11
it seems so obvious now that the heat sensor is the problem.
My local frickin honda garage still maintain it might be the ecu (which would be harsh) - is there any chance of that? Doesn't seem likely really.
I think they just want £100 to tell me what already know.
Any other thoughts people?
Ps: found this forum ultra helpful. Will fill in my profile proper and browse regularly after this minor crisis is over.
Thanks again
#12
Moderator
The light may go off after the monitor cycle is complete for the 02 sensor.
Is the light still on or has it gone off?
I'd say now that you have the code, pull the back-up fuse and clear it. run the car until the monitors are complete, usually 10-25 miles with this car. See if it comes back.
Is the light still on or has it gone off?
I'd say now that you have the code, pull the back-up fuse and clear it. run the car until the monitors are complete, usually 10-25 miles with this car. See if it comes back.
#13
Advisors & Techs @ almost every dealership anywhere, make money by selling labor hours. Some dealerships charge 1 hour diagnosis for any little complaint, others a half hour for a check engine light & pulling a code. You may find some that'll do a free diagnosis here & there when they could really use the business & are hoping the diagnosis turns into a big labor job. So someone comes in with a gas cap not screwed on tight & a check engine light on... that's $100 (or whatever their labor rate for an hour is) to pull the code, tighten the gas cap, & run a few minute diagnostic. So sure, your ecu could be bad, could be wiring, or an act of god, but 99% of the time it is your sensor. The garage just wants to get paid $100 to rule out the other 01%.
Just keep in mind that this is how the people at the garage put food on their tables, they aren't trying to "stick it to" everyone customer, just being overly thorough... while making money =p
Anyways, I'd replace the sensor & watch the problem go away.
Oh, & welcome to S2KI!
Just keep in mind that this is how the people at the garage put food on their tables, they aren't trying to "stick it to" everyone customer, just being overly thorough... while making money =p
Anyways, I'd replace the sensor & watch the problem go away.
Oh, & welcome to S2KI!
#14
Advisors & Techs @ almost every dealership anywhere, make money by selling labor hours. Some dealerships charge 1 hour diagnosis for any little complaint, others a half hour for a check engine light & pulling a code. You may find some that'll do a free diagnosis here & there when they could really use the business & are hoping the diagnosis turns into a big labor job. So someone comes in with a gas cap not screwed on tight & a check engine light on... that's $100 (or whatever their labor rate for an hour is) to pull the code, tighten the gas cap, & run a few minute diagnostic. So, sure.. you're ecu could be bad, could be wiring, or an act of god, but 99% of the time it is your sensor. The garage just wants to get paid $100 to rule out the other 01%.
Just keep in mind that this is how the people at the garage put food on their tables, they aren't trying to "stick it to" everyone customer, just being overly thorough... while making money =p
Anyways, I'd replace the sensor & watch the problem go away.
Oh, & welcome to S2KI!
Just keep in mind that this is how the people at the garage put food on their tables, they aren't trying to "stick it to" everyone customer, just being overly thorough... while making money =p
Anyways, I'd replace the sensor & watch the problem go away.
Oh, & welcome to S2KI!
I get the feeling the garage are well aware its the sensor - but are throwing ecu talk into the mix to make me commit to the £100 'investigation'.
Confident it's the sensor now (thanks to ya'll!) and have much cheaper options to replace it than...£300!!! Which is what the garage wanted for a new sensor. (official honda one)
So im all good hopefully! Will post back.
You guys complete me
#15
The light may go off after the monitor cycle is complete for the 02 sensor.
Is the light still on or has it gone off?
I'd say now that you have the code, pull the back-up fuse and clear it. run the car until the monitors are complete, usually 10-25 miles with this car. See if it comes back.
Is the light still on or has it gone off?
I'd say now that you have the code, pull the back-up fuse and clear it. run the car until the monitors are complete, usually 10-25 miles with this car. See if it comes back.
Im not getting a CEL, but my VTEC is outta whack since i did the same thing the original poster did. Should i replace mey O2 sensor anyway?
#17
whats odd is every since i hit VTEC cold the car wont VTEC in first gear and yesterday for tghe first time missed VTEC in second. What strikes me as odd is that i meet all the requirements for VTEC to engage normally but the car just misses it in first gear. I thought maybe the ECU for some reason is out of whack and i should just reset it..not sure though..
#18
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Join Date: May 2006
Location: Hartselle, AL
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whats odd is every since i hit VTEC cold the car wont VTEC in first gear and yesterday for tghe first time missed VTEC in second. What strikes me as odd is that i meet all the requirements for VTEC to engage normally but the car just misses it in first gear. I thought maybe the ECU for some reason is out of whack and i should just reset it..not sure though..
I was a dealership tech for a little while and in a shop of 36 guys there were only two or three real enthusiast in there that cared about more than making money. S2KDanny is pinpoint with his answer. Sensor replacement is a simple job and about $150 USD IIRC from parts stores states side. That code usually only comes up when the sensor is bad or going out and there is a fluctuation in ambient temperature. The latter goes away pretty quickly though.
#19
Im thinking of just popping the battery cable off and letting it sit for a bit, then hooking it back up and letting the car relearn itself. Otherweise i might check the VTEC solenoid screen to see if its dirty. Any DIY on that??
#20
the Vtec solenoid is very easy to get to... its right above the TCT... you might have to remove the intake box. give you more room
also, make sure to have your radio code handy if you unplug the battery.
also, make sure to have your radio code handy if you unplug the battery.