Major S2000 mechanical revision
#11
Coolant should be changed after 10 years or 100,000 miles, then every 5 years or 60k miles. Check your radiator for stress cracks near the upper hose. The banjo bolt "upgrade" has caused a lot of people a lot of headaches with stripped threads, and in one case a cracked block, as well as oil starvation from the bolt backing out. I would not be so eager to do that, torque is critical and very easy to mess up. It's much easier to do with the oil pump/pick up tube removed, if you're dead set on doing the timing chain I guess it's not that much a stretch(get it chain pun).
He's quite experienced plus I'm providing him any information I can get so it makes both our lives easier and risk-free. He's also going to upgrade the valve retainers, so yeah with the block out it should be a pretty straightforward job. Will take time but will be properly done.
About the coolant, everything's alright. Whenever I take the car to the yearly service the mechanic does a full inspection, not just the basic "oil-filter-water/coolant" routine. I pay more but I get off the service with peace of mind and knowing exactly what should need to be replaced on that service or next year's.
After all, this is a car I've always dreamed of and want to maintain. It's a very reliable car. With the proper maintenance it's bulletproof and I intend to keep it that way.
@Seals, so far so good but I understand your point. However, as I'm gonna still order a few other stuff for the mechanical part i'm running out of budget very soon. I'll still take a look at it.
#12
I always caution people to be careful that there efforts to prevent a problem don't inadvertently cause it.
Taking apart a healthy engine to replace parts that aren't broken might end up causing the very thing you seek to prevent. If everything isn't taken apart, and put back together, just so... The more invasive the disassembly, the more risk.
These engines are like any Honda in that they can go forever with nothing more than regular oil changes and making sure to never have a low oil event. But they are unlike any other Honda engine, and most any other production motor of any brand, in ways that can easily trip up even the most experienced mechanic. The paet looks the same as any other car, so they treat it the same. The oil filter. The engine bearings. Pistons. These parts all require special, unique knowledge and care. Does this mechanic have this specific knowledge? Just being a Honda expert is not enough. In fact, it may give a dangerous false level of confidence.
I fear you are going to pay a good chunk of money only to end up damaging your motor, and your relationship with your mechanic, beyond repair.
To summarize:
If it ain't broke, don't fix it.
Taking apart a healthy engine to replace parts that aren't broken might end up causing the very thing you seek to prevent. If everything isn't taken apart, and put back together, just so... The more invasive the disassembly, the more risk.
These engines are like any Honda in that they can go forever with nothing more than regular oil changes and making sure to never have a low oil event. But they are unlike any other Honda engine, and most any other production motor of any brand, in ways that can easily trip up even the most experienced mechanic. The paet looks the same as any other car, so they treat it the same. The oil filter. The engine bearings. Pistons. These parts all require special, unique knowledge and care. Does this mechanic have this specific knowledge? Just being a Honda expert is not enough. In fact, it may give a dangerous false level of confidence.
I fear you are going to pay a good chunk of money only to end up damaging your motor, and your relationship with your mechanic, beyond repair.
To summarize:
If it ain't broke, don't fix it.
#14
The thing is, most of the parts I ordered need replacement, so taking the block off is easier than trying to fiddle with things on a tiny space. It's not like hes gonna disassemble the engine until the last screw.
For example: spark plugs, TCT, valve retainers and their keepers. Everything else is a bonus (timing chain since it's 17 years old and I already got it, and the AP2 banjo bolts to have the updated version)
I like to push this car to its limits once in a while and I want to take part in some drag events for some fun. When I do that, I like to have confidence and peace of mind that I've done and installed everything that was recommended, specially because I don't know in what state these parts are.
I can bet the valves are cracked and the spark plugs too burned, not sure about the rest.
I also suspect the coils are being responsible for the few misfires i've been having, but since it's quite expensive atm to order them, I'll wait for the mechanic's final word. I've spent around 1000€ already on parts, plus 1500€ on the hardtop. The service will be around 300€, so all put together there's already some good money invested.
For example: spark plugs, TCT, valve retainers and their keepers. Everything else is a bonus (timing chain since it's 17 years old and I already got it, and the AP2 banjo bolts to have the updated version)
I like to push this car to its limits once in a while and I want to take part in some drag events for some fun. When I do that, I like to have confidence and peace of mind that I've done and installed everything that was recommended, specially because I don't know in what state these parts are.
I can bet the valves are cracked and the spark plugs too burned, not sure about the rest.
I also suspect the coils are being responsible for the few misfires i've been having, but since it's quite expensive atm to order them, I'll wait for the mechanic's final word. I've spent around 1000€ already on parts, plus 1500€ on the hardtop. The service will be around 300€, so all put together there's already some good money invested.
#15
Just getting half way down the post in this thread im already . Sometimes its better to not be OCD with this car when you are talking only 83k miles and cracking into a perfectly good running factory engine to replace timing chains and the like. I hope the head is not coming off and then compounded by mistakenly resurfacing it too. Good rule of thumb is to post thread like this before any parts are bought, not buy the parts and then post in hopes you did the right thing. The general information and vast experience pooled together on this forum is second to none. The only official mechanic id trust over the general knowledge base here to work on my s2000 is Billman.
Last edited by s2000Junky; 10-25-2018 at 08:44 AM.
#16
I know that s2000Junky. But most if not all the parts listed here are quite straightforward replacements, nothing really tricky that involves a maze to sort it out. And since the engine is getting opened and it's a taskful operation that costs quite some money, unless something critical happens I won't be opening that engine in the next 15 years. That's the point.
#17
Glad to know that, because the amazon "check if it fits" and hondapartsnow said they were incompatible on 2001 version.
I know that s2000Junky. But most if not all the parts listed here are quite straightforward replacements, nothing really tricky that involves a maze to sort it out. And since the engine is getting opened and it's a taskful operation that costs quite some money, unless something critical happens I won't be opening that engine in the next 15 years. That's the point.
I know that s2000Junky. But most if not all the parts listed here are quite straightforward replacements, nothing really tricky that involves a maze to sort it out. And since the engine is getting opened and it's a taskful operation that costs quite some money, unless something critical happens I won't be opening that engine in the next 15 years. That's the point.
Last edited by s2000Junky; 10-25-2018 at 09:50 AM.
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Diablosrouge (10-30-2018)
#18
The thing is, most of the parts I ordered need replacement, so taking the block off is easier than trying to fiddle with things on a tiny space. It's not like hes gonna disassemble the engine until the last screw.
For example: spark plugs, TCT, valve retainers and their keepers. Everything else is a bonus (timing chain since it's 17 years old and I already got it, and the AP2 banjo bolts to have the updated version)
I like to push this car to its limits once in a while and I want to take part in some drag events for some fun. When I do that, I like to have confidence and peace of mind that I've done and installed everything that was recommended, specially because I don't know in what state these parts are.
I can bet the valves are cracked and the spark plugs too burned, not sure about the rest.
I also suspect the coils are being responsible for the few misfires i've been having, but since it's quite expensive atm to order them, I'll wait for the mechanic's final word. I've spent around 1000€ already on parts, plus 1500€ on the hardtop. The service will be around 300€, so all put together there's already some good money invested.
For example: spark plugs, TCT, valve retainers and their keepers. Everything else is a bonus (timing chain since it's 17 years old and I already got it, and the AP2 banjo bolts to have the updated version)
I like to push this car to its limits once in a while and I want to take part in some drag events for some fun. When I do that, I like to have confidence and peace of mind that I've done and installed everything that was recommended, specially because I don't know in what state these parts are.
I can bet the valves are cracked and the spark plugs too burned, not sure about the rest.
I also suspect the coils are being responsible for the few misfires i've been having, but since it's quite expensive atm to order them, I'll wait for the mechanic's final word. I've spent around 1000€ already on parts, plus 1500€ on the hardtop. The service will be around 300€, so all put together there's already some good money invested.
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Diablosrouge (10-30-2018)
#19
Right. Do the plugs. Do the tct. Check the retainers, do them if they are cracked.
If the coils are bad, do them.
These are all regular maintenance things or things that need to be done if they are damaged.
Its the other things that are invasive and unnecessary. And more likely to cause problems than prevent them.
Only do the banjo bolts if you will be driving at high speeds for extended periods of time, like half an hour on the autobahn at 175 km/hr or more (you don't need them for drag racing).
There is no need to do the timing chain.
The less you can open this motor the better.
If the coils are bad, do them.
These are all regular maintenance things or things that need to be done if they are damaged.
Its the other things that are invasive and unnecessary. And more likely to cause problems than prevent them.
Only do the banjo bolts if you will be driving at high speeds for extended periods of time, like half an hour on the autobahn at 175 km/hr or more (you don't need them for drag racing).
There is no need to do the timing chain.
The less you can open this motor the better.
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Diablosrouge (10-30-2018)
#20
The following users liked this post:
Diablosrouge (10-30-2018)