Lug nut won't budge
11-27-2007, 11:19 AM
#22
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I worked on an s2k the a few months back that the lugs were on so tight that I snapped the end totally off the lug nut using a long breaker bar. Had to cut the nut in half with a dremel and break it off in the end.
11-27-2007, 04:11 PM
#24
1. Snap the stud off,
2. throw away the broken stud and the lug nut it's trapped in,
3. take the brake rotor (and therefore caliper too) off,
4. remove the wheel hub from the car,
5. press in a new stud,
6. buy a new lug nut,
7. mount the hub back on the car,
8. but the brake rotor and brake caliper back on,
9. mount the wheel back on the car
..and you're done.
Commit to doing all of the above and if anything else happens, it'll be a pleasant surprise instead of a pain in the ass
2. throw away the broken stud and the lug nut it's trapped in,
3. take the brake rotor (and therefore caliper too) off,
4. remove the wheel hub from the car,
5. press in a new stud,
6. buy a new lug nut,
7. mount the hub back on the car,
8. but the brake rotor and brake caliper back on,
9. mount the wheel back on the car
..and you're done.
Commit to doing all of the above and if anything else happens, it'll be a pleasant surprise instead of a pain in the ass
11-27-2007, 04:51 PM
#25
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On my gf's bmw, the dealer tightened the lug bolt way too much, probably with an impact gun.
I had to use a 18" breaker bar and put my jack handle over it to give me more leverage.
My impact wrench couldn't break it loose...maybe I got a weak one?
I had to use a 18" breaker bar and put my jack handle over it to give me more leverage.
My impact wrench couldn't break it loose...maybe I got a weak one?
11-28-2007, 03:57 AM
#26
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Thanks everybody, I sprayed CRC screw loose super penetrant on Monday night and let it soak in until last night, then I used a five sided 19mm socket and an 18" breaker bar and gave it a solid hit with my hand and they all broke loose fine. I installed my Honda wheel locks and torqued all nuts to 80lbs. I think my biggest problem was that I was not using the proper socket and had too much play between it and the nut plus I was afraid to break a stud. Thanks again to all.
11-28-2007, 06:27 AM
#28
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Hey, Miami,
Two things nobody mentioned:
1. These days the attorneys have got the tire and wheel companies, and probably the manufacturers too, jumping through the torque specs hoop. They want me to tighten the eight lug nuts on my 3/4 ton Dodge to 140 ft lbs! Just how do you get them off when you get a flat out on the highway? You could tighten your lug nuts to 40 lbs on most cars and light trucks and be safe all day long. They'd never fall off and sliding sideways into a curb you couldn't budge them. Soooo.... IMHO 65 lbs should be plenty. But (attorney fear talking here) it's just my opinion.
2. The second thing that was not mentioned is that if you cannot get a bolt and/or nut off, try tightening it a bit first. Ususally you round off the dern things by trying to undo them so you can't get a hold of them. Mostly they just need to be "cracked" loose so either tighter or looser will stgart the process.
Keep the shiny side up,
Jim
Two things nobody mentioned:
1. These days the attorneys have got the tire and wheel companies, and probably the manufacturers too, jumping through the torque specs hoop. They want me to tighten the eight lug nuts on my 3/4 ton Dodge to 140 ft lbs! Just how do you get them off when you get a flat out on the highway? You could tighten your lug nuts to 40 lbs on most cars and light trucks and be safe all day long. They'd never fall off and sliding sideways into a curb you couldn't budge them. Soooo.... IMHO 65 lbs should be plenty. But (attorney fear talking here) it's just my opinion.
2. The second thing that was not mentioned is that if you cannot get a bolt and/or nut off, try tightening it a bit first. Ususally you round off the dern things by trying to undo them so you can't get a hold of them. Mostly they just need to be "cracked" loose so either tighter or looser will stgart the process.
Keep the shiny side up,
Jim
11-28-2007, 10:18 AM
#29
Registered User
Originally Posted by Krenath,Nov 27 2007, 08:11 PM
1. Snap the stud off,
2. throw away the broken stud and the lug nut it's trapped in,
3. take the brake rotor (and therefore caliper too) off,
4. remove the wheel hub from the car,
5. press in a new stud,
6. buy a new lug nut,
7. mount the hub back on the car,
8. but the brake rotor and brake caliper back on,
9. mount the wheel back on the car
..and you're done.
Commit to doing all of the above and if anything else happens, it'll be a pleasant surprise instead of a pain in the ass
2. throw away the broken stud and the lug nut it's trapped in,
3. take the brake rotor (and therefore caliper too) off,
4. remove the wheel hub from the car,
5. press in a new stud,
6. buy a new lug nut,
7. mount the hub back on the car,
8. but the brake rotor and brake caliper back on,
9. mount the wheel back on the car
..and you're done.
Commit to doing all of the above and if anything else happens, it'll be a pleasant surprise instead of a pain in the ass
In order to change the studs you have to replace the bearing in the hub- this has to be replaced my a shop with the proper tools, so after paying for parts from Honda and having the bearing pressed in your out some big money for a $6 stud and a $4.50 lug.
But thanks for posting
information - If I were this guy, and followed your instructions, I would be 
WTF is up, and 
that I had to buy these parts, probably have to wait on them to come in, and have my car out of commission for a couple days. Next time, have some sort of an idea about what you are doing before you post.
