jWESTFOO

Do you follow a specific DIY when you do your valve adjustments? I've never done one myself before, but I definitely don't want to pay the $300 the Honda quotes for that job.

vtec9

I follow this:

https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/245...ve-adjustment/
and this
https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/931.../page__st__100

I bought the valve adjustment tool linked in the second thread (haven't used it yet, you don't necessarily need it), and flat feeler gauges that I bent myself.

30 min start to finish to just check valve clearance when you are familiar with the process. Longer your first time, but certainly a doable home project with moderate mechanical aptitude.

poorshoeless

This is what I use as a reference and I also have the service manual.

http://robrobinette.com/S2000ValveAdjust.htm

It's not that hard, just take your time and triple check your work. The hardest part was puting the cover back on. It will be a lot faster the next time I do it.

Slowcrash_101

It's super simple, I disco the battery, make sure car is cold, I like to do it 1st thing in the morning. Remove valve cover turn engine at the crank so the cam lobes are away from the valves, slide in your feeler gauge (get the ones that have a kink as it's easier to get em in), loosen the lock nut then adjust the adjustment screw until there's a drag on the feeler gauge when you slide it under the adjustment fastener and top of the valve stem then tighten the locknut to 14ft lbs. I adjust both intake and exhaust to .01"

It's my experience that the valves tend to tighten, so I leave them on the loose end of the range.

Just make sure you turn the crank so that each cam lobe is away from the valves on each cylinder.

For reference, all valve cover bolts are 10mm and the hex bolts that cover the coil packs are 5mm all bolts are tightened to 9ft lbs. Also it's a lot easier to remove the valve cover if you unbolt the two tdc sensors, and the bracket that props up the wire harness to the firewall. Don't lose those o rings on the sensors.

I also like to replace the spark plug seals and valve cover gasket.

Car Analogy

What ever happened to reading comprehension? Or if u r 2 lazy 2 read the post, then don't make yourself look stoopit by posting things that don't jive with the post.

The guy didn't do the valve adjust himself. He brought it to a shop. Yes, he knows to go back to the shop, he just wanted to hear from us if his new sound is normal.

My answer, yes, an engine could be noisier after a valve adjust, if the valves were tight beforehand (ie; noise now is normal, before it was abnormally quiet). Ask the tech what the valve clearances were before he adjusted. That will tell us if they were tight enough to now make more (normal) noise.

Car Analogy

Stupid mobile app dup post.

Billman250

I assure you 100% that is not what is happening. It's amazing what some people will make up to say, just to have something to say.

The chain is not driven off the oil pump, it is driven off the crank. The oil pump chain drives nothing.

Slowcrash_101

Sorry, you are correct in the end, the looser they are the noisier they are, because the rockers are striking the top of the valve stem. If they're so tight that they don't make any noise, the valve will not seat properly(aka valve float) and can cause all sorts of problems, especially on the exhaust side, which is why I'm more worried about not hearing the valve train than the inverse. Granted if they're too loose they valves won't open all the way which causes it's own problems.

Slowcrash_101

Aside from the oil pump.

jWESTFOO

I think he was trying to say that the oil pump chain could be sounding differently since the slightly different viscosity of the new oil would make the pump behave a little different. Based on the video, does it sound abnormal/should I get the valves looked at again? I appreciate your input and am just wishing I was closer to you so that I could just bring it into your shop and be done with it.