TwiztedS2K

Did you for certain gap those spark plugs correctly? That is a pretty vital step. Mine didn't come gapped, so I thought I would ask. My problem so far was identical to yours, nothing different. Even at higher speeds sometimes it would do it. When I would just idle in traffic, I would sometimes have to even put the clutch in, rev it up, and then slowly let out or it would constantly stutter around. Good luck anyways, I know you have been with this issue for some while now, because we talked when it first began. There has to be a solution somewhere.....

NorthCyprus

I know man and its really giving me a headache now, its been like one year and having the same problem is just bad. I'll talk to the mech about it. What do you exactly mean by yours didnt come gapped, does it have a special adjustment or something? i remember somebody mentioning some numbers !

TwiztedS2K

Sure, when you buy spark plugs, 9 times out of 10 you have to adjust the space between the tip or it (the metal prong) and the peice of metal the spark comes from. This is called the 'gap'. They sell a small circular tool at advance auto or just about any auto dealer for one dollar or so. But anyways, I set all of mine to, I think..., 42? Is this right guys, 42? Straight out of the box they were set to 35 or so. I am not completely sure if this will solve all of your problems, but it wouldnt hurt a bit to try it, since it is a very easy and inexpensive task. I am not a certified mechanic by any means, so please, xviper or anybody that knows a lot about gapping, if his gap is off as much as mine, couldn't it cause this problem? I mean, this would still allow VTEC to work, and no CEL would show because of it.

xviper

OEM plug gap for his MY is 0.040" to 0.044". If the plugs are specifically sold as an S2000 replacement, they "should" be gapped with the proper gap right out of the package. At least, this is what I have found with the Denso Iridium IK24s. HOWEVER, never take for granted that the gap is correct. Always check the gap on all new plugs before putting them into the engine.
Here is a thread that might be of some help:
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?act=S...=0#entry4349486
Some discussions on gapping further down the page.

NorthCyprus

Thanks, i'm still curious about the knock sensor, if i disconnect it , would the car still work? i searched but didnt find the answer!

Slows2k

The CEL will be on for the open knock sensor circuit, and the PCM will run lots of timing retard. It's not viable option to eliminate your problem.

NorthCyprus

Thanks for the info,
from what you said i think my knock sensor might have a problem like sending wrong signals and confusing the ECU to cause timing retard. I'll definetly get it checked. I'll let you know. Thanks.

NorthCyprus

Until now i couldnt check the knock but i'll go to the mech and get;

Fuel Pressure Regulator,
Knock Sensor,
checked

and i'll block the coolant to the intake and let you know how it all turns out. If i dont post for a week or something on this thread plz dont think i'm not updating coz where i live , believe me things take time to do.

NorthCyprus

Ok, i went to the mech today. I told him about blocking the coolant to the intake and, good luck, he had exatly the same steel balls described in the thread about it so he blocked the coolant from those two lines. Car seems to run smoother and hesitation isnt as bad as before. I'm still going to test the car for a few days to be sure about everything than i'll let you know. About the FPR, we took it out, (some fuel came out bcoz of the pressure in the rail) mech told me it's a mechanical device not electrical so he doesnt think there's something wrong with it. That right? About the knock sensor, he got under the car and simply unplugged it. I turned on the car, CEL came on after a few minutes of driving, idle seems to drop to 100 than slowly back to 900 but it got better after driving for a while.

I still have the CEL and of course it's bcoz the knock sensor is unplugged.

About the problem, i dont know yet but on the way home from the mech, i drove around just for testing for like half an hour , there was some powerloss but not worst like it was before, little powerloss might happen bcoz of the very hot weather we have here, specially today it was 40 degrees celcius. To be sure if its ok now i'll test the car today, tomorrow, than let you guys know. I dont like driving around with a CEL but thats the only way now to see if i have a mad knock sensor or not. Thanks.

NorthCyprus

OK i've been driving the car for 2 days.
-Power loss still happens, but less. When AC is on, it's really bad. Imagine you have AC on and you have less performance right? in my car exactly the same kind of performance loss happens when the AC is off. I dont think anything is wrong with the knock sensor now and i think the power loss is a little bit less because we blocked the coolant. When powerloss first starts to happen it starts like the car stalls like something is opening and closing inside the engine, than it dies and stays dead. Just like when you turn AC on, same thing but worse.
Any ideas?