DeeKay

run mine at 28 psi or else i get over-inflation wear. running bfgood 245 on rear

waleed786

I had the same symptoms as the OP and it was due to excessive rear toe

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ZDan

You could take it back and ask if they have your specific measurements from when they did the alignment, and if they don't, IMO they *should* be willing to measure again to get that for you without charging you.

If the rear toe is greater than maybe ~0.45 degrees total, you might ask them to knock it down to 0.2-0.3 degrees.
Front toe should be near zero. If it's more than maybe -.15 degrees total, you might have them zero it.
Also note the other measurements. I don't know what your usage is, but for me, a good street-only alignment should have at *least* -.5 degrees front camber and -1 rear. As far as I'm concerned, even on the street, as much as -2, even -2.5 isn't that bad for wear *as long as toe is reasonably minimized*.

Car Analogy

I was also going to suggest rear tires. They could look fine, have correct air, but still have issues. Swap wheels with someone to rule them out.

Also as was suggested hy others, and a couple more of mine:

- rear diff bushings
- rear subframe alignment (search on here. There are alignment holes in subframe. You stick screwdriver or similar into hole, make sure it goes through both subframe and body holes. You do this for all the holes)
- rear subframe bolts (make sure they are torqued down properly)
- rear control arm bushings
- rear toe alignment specs (get that printout!)
- rear toe arm bushings (if these are worn, toe can effectively change with load, which sounds suspiciously like what you describe)

silverstone05

Sidewall flex?

cdelena

I was very surprised when I changed the rear wheel bearings and hubs on my car... it made a real difference in handling at all speeds. So much so that I went ahead and did the front wheel bearings and got a good improvement in tracking, turn-in, and high speed control.

You cannot tell anything by shaking the wheel by hand... there is a procedure to measure if end play is within .05 mm, although most of us find the problem when they are way out and creating noise.

Wheel bearing issues are not uncommon with S2000's due to bad torque specs, owners using wheels with large variance to stock offsets, and hard driving with r-comp tires.

Mr. Orange

Ok so here's what I'm going to do:

Go see my mechanic and check the following:
-inspect all of the mounts
-inspect control arms and bushings again
-check the wheel bearings again, and try to be more scrutinizing
-check subframe alignment
-double check the tire pressure with a different gauge, perhaps mine is wrong?

If that yields nothing, I will go to the alignment shop and ask to see the specs for the toe and camber. I

Assuming the alignment is good, I'll try to find someone local who can swap wheels for a little bit and drive the car around.

Failing that, I will change out the brakes and fix the stuck caliper(s) and make sure the brakes are at 100%.

If that doesn't work, then I'll start looking into replacing the hubs and bearings, and also swap the CV cups just for good measure.

I've got nothing if that doesn't fix it. I guess I'll just torch it and call my insurance /s

Mr. Orange

Doesn't really have that feeling. The rear is firm over bumps, it just sways side to side. I had some relatively soft Continental DW tires on my old S2000 and it never felt anything like this.

arsenal

I would do the wheels before all of that, shouldn't be hard to find someone. What condition are the tires at the moment?

cdelena

I have three tire pressure gauges and all are different... I had a fourth but it was consistently low so I threw it away. I doubt that a minor variation is causing your problem but it always good to question tool calibration.