Looking into a new Clutch - Questions
#1
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Looking into a new Clutch - Questions
Hey guys,
It has been a long time since I've been on here, but I recently discovered that my clutch is starting to go bad. I'm not surprised since my 2002 has made it to 160,000 miles on my original clutch, so I have been doing some searching looking into aftermarket replacements as I have a buddy that can probably get me anything aftermarket for pretty cheap, but I have some questions and was wondering what you guys think of some of these replacements. If anyone has any experience with these clutch replacements I would love to hear your feedback on what you think of it compared to OEM.
The 2 that I was looking at are:
Competition Stage 2 = Part # 8023-2100
and
Exedy Clutch kit = Part # KHC06
Also, I have read a few times now when I was reasearching that it seems to be recommended to use the OEM bearings over the aftermarket ones. From what I gather this is due to them being stronger than aftermarket ones, but I don't know how much relevancy there is to this. can anyone shed some light on this?
Also, from what I gather if I'm replacing the clutch now is a good time to replace the flywheel. It seems to be that the 14 lb AP1 flywheel is the ideal replacement to go with over the 22 lb flywheel that is stock. Also, it seems that this may make the car slightly more difficult to drive in stop and go traffic situations.
It has been a long time since I've been on here, but I recently discovered that my clutch is starting to go bad. I'm not surprised since my 2002 has made it to 160,000 miles on my original clutch, so I have been doing some searching looking into aftermarket replacements as I have a buddy that can probably get me anything aftermarket for pretty cheap, but I have some questions and was wondering what you guys think of some of these replacements. If anyone has any experience with these clutch replacements I would love to hear your feedback on what you think of it compared to OEM.
The 2 that I was looking at are:
Competition Stage 2 = Part # 8023-2100
and
Exedy Clutch kit = Part # KHC06
Also, I have read a few times now when I was reasearching that it seems to be recommended to use the OEM bearings over the aftermarket ones. From what I gather this is due to them being stronger than aftermarket ones, but I don't know how much relevancy there is to this. can anyone shed some light on this?
Also, from what I gather if I'm replacing the clutch now is a good time to replace the flywheel. It seems to be that the 14 lb AP1 flywheel is the ideal replacement to go with over the 22 lb flywheel that is stock. Also, it seems that this may make the car slightly more difficult to drive in stop and go traffic situations.
#2
Moderator
In my experience, none of the bearings will last like OEM, by a long shot.
The OEM disc is the only disc you should be using. My experience (meaning many many S2000 customers) has shown that CC, exedy, and the like are very poor components.
All of them will have horrible clutch buzz, except oem.
Fact: oem "replacement parts" like exedy are nothing like what Honda supplies and share nothing similar.
Many of the non oem stuff has been reported to release under high RPM and slip.
Use the ap1 flywheel, and remove the CDV. ANYTHING that you have read about the car being hard to drive in traffic, even with an 8 lb flywheel is a complete myth. It can happen with other vehicles, so people assume it would be the same with the S2000 and post it with no experience.
Every S2000 clutch job I do gets:
new OEM disc and bearings
resurface oem flywheel
resurface or supply resurfaced oem PP
A lifetime guarantee against defects, problems, or drivability issues
This is the most reliable trouble free setup.
Add an ACT PP for FI applications, but that requires some special rules and habits to avoid thrust washer damage and engine failure.
The OEM disc is the only disc you should be using. My experience (meaning many many S2000 customers) has shown that CC, exedy, and the like are very poor components.
All of them will have horrible clutch buzz, except oem.
Fact: oem "replacement parts" like exedy are nothing like what Honda supplies and share nothing similar.
Many of the non oem stuff has been reported to release under high RPM and slip.
Use the ap1 flywheel, and remove the CDV. ANYTHING that you have read about the car being hard to drive in traffic, even with an 8 lb flywheel is a complete myth. It can happen with other vehicles, so people assume it would be the same with the S2000 and post it with no experience.
Every S2000 clutch job I do gets:
new OEM disc and bearings
resurface oem flywheel
resurface or supply resurfaced oem PP
A lifetime guarantee against defects, problems, or drivability issues
This is the most reliable trouble free setup.
Add an ACT PP for FI applications, but that requires some special rules and habits to avoid thrust washer damage and engine failure.
#3
#4
Your original clutch went 160k miles. Why would want to even consider going aftermarket. Go with what got you to 160k trouble free miles.
#5
Guest
Posts: n/a
Billman,
Ive heard from a mechanic out here in southern California that works on a ton of s2000s that going with a new flywheel is best when replacing clutch. He went into detail and I don't remember everything but it had something to do with when you resurface the flywheel and the new position of it when its reinstalled. He said that's the reason why the original clutch lasts so long.. im starting to realize this as I had my OG clutch swapped out at 130k and im at 200k now and im getting close to needing a new clutch already (with OEM clutch kit).
Have any idea what im talking about?
Ive heard from a mechanic out here in southern California that works on a ton of s2000s that going with a new flywheel is best when replacing clutch. He went into detail and I don't remember everything but it had something to do with when you resurface the flywheel and the new position of it when its reinstalled. He said that's the reason why the original clutch lasts so long.. im starting to realize this as I had my OG clutch swapped out at 130k and im at 200k now and im getting close to needing a new clutch already (with OEM clutch kit).
Have any idea what im talking about?
#6
Guest
Posts: n/a
Im looking at their website. I think it may have to do with something about the stack height and clearance with flywheel. btw: its Alex at Ballade Sports
EDIT: I think I remember now what he was talking about.. he was saying if I use a OEM clutch kit, then getting a new flywheel would be best. but if getting the Ballade Clutch kit, it designed for proper stack height clearance with flywheel. they would determine if I needed a new flywheel if I got the ballade clutch kit. but not necessary.
EDIT: I think I remember now what he was talking about.. he was saying if I use a OEM clutch kit, then getting a new flywheel would be best. but if getting the Ballade Clutch kit, it designed for proper stack height clearance with flywheel. they would determine if I needed a new flywheel if I got the ballade clutch kit. but not necessary.
#7
Moderator
That would make since if a lot of material was cut from the flywheel, in order to affect the PP positioning in relation to the transmission.
The fact is flywheels are ground...not cut. The material removed is usually less than .003.
This makes that a complete myth.
I assure you resurfacing the flywheel has zero affect on clutch life.
It's grinding the surface WITHOUT grinding the step that affects PP clamping force and finger positioning.
Flywheel must be step ground.
The fact is flywheels are ground...not cut. The material removed is usually less than .003.
This makes that a complete myth.
I assure you resurfacing the flywheel has zero affect on clutch life.
It's grinding the surface WITHOUT grinding the step that affects PP clamping force and finger positioning.
Flywheel must be step ground.
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#9
Don't mean to hijack this thread, but, Billman- If my car is completely stock and I'm getting a new clutch set up.. How does this sound-
OEM Clutch Disk and Bearings.
ACT Pressure Plate.
AP1 Flywheel.
My car is a 06 with 89000 miles.
Or should I go with the stock PP since I have no engine mods?
OEM Clutch Disk and Bearings.
ACT Pressure Plate.
AP1 Flywheel.
My car is a 06 with 89000 miles.
Or should I go with the stock PP since I have no engine mods?
#10
There's not necessarily a need for the upgraded pressure plate unless you plan for more power (FI) down the road. The Ap1 flywheel would be a nice upgrade and change over to an Ap1 slave cylinder of you want to get rid of the clutch delay. Definitely go for oem disk and bearings for nice, smooth and quiet operation.