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So I did the valve lash adjustment, here are the results.
So, the numbers inside the box are the gaps I found, the numbers outside the box are the new gap measurements. They were all basically too tight, especially cylinder #3, of the two exhaust valves, the one closer to the front, initially I thought it had no gap because I kept trying to measure it and after getting down to 0.005, I realised it the rocker or whatever it is called, was just down. Reason I had to do a correction there.
So, trying to remember what I did back in my last valve measurement, I am not 100% sure, but I might have adjusted them on the tighter side. I did not realise that the valves and the valve seat would wear with time and so the valve would slowly over time move up and close the gap. So I think I created my own problem. It's a learning experience, and this time I set it a bit looser.
So the adjustment was last night.
This morning I went grocery shopping and drove the car for 40 minutes, upon getting home, I did a new compression test.
As you can all see, the compression went up a bit in cylinders 1, 2 and 4. But I lost compression on cylinder 3, about 10 psi.
So with this, I'm going to call it, I have problems with the valves in cylinder 3, and need to pull the head and send it to the machine shop to fix it.
Now, will I do that? That is a different story, the idea of doing a k-swap is starting to feel pretty good. I'm going to think about it for the next couple of weeks.
Anyways, thank you everyone for the advice, you were all a great help!!
Generally speaking, a valve adjustment should not get you higher compression unless one of the valves had a zero'd out clearance prior. Clearance isn't the issue. You still need to figure out if the compression is leaking through those valves or not. That will answer the question if refreshing the head will get you back the compression or not.
K swap is not anywhere close to plug and play, and end result is a bit more forever dealing with project car nuisances than oem like experience.
If you're waffling on pulling head yourself, you're definitely not ready for diy k swap.
The reason I am considering the swap is, for what I gather, the F-series is more fragile, more expensive, more complicated and less aftermarket parts available when compared to the K-series. While in the short run, repairing the head would be the cheaper option. In the long run, I think the swap would be a wiser move. Specially if I wish to return to the track, and maybe even boost the s2k at some point.
Originally Posted by Jub
Generally speaking, a valve adjustment should not get you higher compression unless one of the valves had a zero'd out clearance prior. Clearance isn't the issue. You still need to figure out if the compression is leaking through those valves or not. That will answer the question if refreshing the head will get you back the compression or not.
I have been thinking about that this afternoon, I think the reason might be that the previous compression tests, I would start the car and have it run for about 10 minutes, and of those 10 minutes, I would hold the rpms at about 2.5k~3k rpm for a minute, then let it idle for about 2 or 3 minutes , and repeat it about 3 or 4 more times. Then I would do the compression test when I saw coolant hit 80 C.
I think this last compression test, the engine was properly hot, unlike the previous times. Good call @Jub .
The F is not more fragile or more complicated. The thing it gets dinged for in terms of "complicated" and why it's generally considered hard to rebuild is the FRM lined cylinders. They can't really be honed much if at all and we haven't seen any cost effective way to re-do them. The F has a less complicated valvetrain than the K and a more robust bottom end by virtue of having larger bearings and forged internals. In theory, it is the stronger engine and if all else was equal, I'd bet the F would hold up to more track abuse than the K.
The K has a more complex valvetrain but it does have i-Vtec instead of just Vtec. It can be tuned to have significantly more mid-range and optimized better across the rev range. They're more easily rebuilt, cheaper to source a replacement, and much more abundant. Going into the future, they should be easier to deal with. Aside from emission stuff, which should absolutely be considered, the K swap is pretty well traveled at this point and the swap materials should be available and reliable.
If I blew an engine, I'd highly consider going k-swap. If refreshing the head would get your compression back and your bottom end is in good shape, I'd refresh the head and call it a day. I felt good about getting a fresh head back and seeing healthy cylinder walls in my block. Felt a bit like a half-life refresh @ 110k miles for me.
The F is not more fragile or more complicated. The thing it gets dinged for in terms of "complicated" and why it's generally considered hard to rebuild is the FRM lined cylinders. They can't really be honed much if at all and we haven't seen any cost effective way to re-do them. The F has a less complicated valvetrain than the K and a more robust bottom end by virtue of having larger bearings and forged internals. In theory, it is the stronger engine and if all else was equal, I'd bet the F would hold up to more track abuse than the K.
The K has a more complex valvetrain but it does have i-Vtec instead of just Vtec. It can be tuned to have significantly more mid-range and optimized better across the rev range. They're more easily rebuilt, cheaper to source a replacement, and much more abundant. Going into the future, they should be easier to deal with. Aside from emission stuff, which should absolutely be considered, the K swap is pretty well traveled at this point and the swap materials should be available and reliable.
If I blew an engine, I'd highly consider going k-swap. If refreshing the head would get your compression back and your bottom end is in good shape, I'd refresh the head and call it a day. I felt good about getting a fresh head back and seeing healthy cylinder walls in my block. Felt a bit like a half-life refresh @ 110k miles for me.
Would a K-swapped S2000 be a track-only car. How could you get that setup registered and pass smog, in say California?
Would a K-swapped S2000 be a track-only car. How could you get that setup registered and pass smog, in say California?
Thanks!
Idk about California and I don't fully know the answer to that. In my state (MD) and in most emissions states, they plug into the OBD-II and check if there is no check engine light. I do believe they can also see information about the ECU and make sure it matches the car model. If you're using a K-Pro or something, they likely can see it's not showing as an S2000 ECU. I believe there are usually ways to make that passable and sometimes it's a rule that the new engine/ECU have to be from a newer car than the original. I haven't been through that type of stuff in about a decade when I had a swapped Integra.
It's state by state and people will have to do their own research. I mainly point it out because I think it's often a forgotten element. I wouldn't want someone to swap their car and then realize they can't register it once their emissions time rolls around.
Idk about California and I don't fully know the answer to that. In my state (MD) and in most emissions states, they plug into the OBD-II and check if there is no check engine light. I do believe they can also see information about the ECU and make sure it matches the car model. If you're using a K-Pro or something, they likely can see it's not showing as an S2000 ECU. I believe there are usually ways to make that passable and sometimes it's a rule that the new engine/ECU have to be from a newer car than the original. I haven't been through that type of stuff in about a decade when I had a swapped Integra.
It's state by state and people will have to do their own research. I mainly point it out because I think it's often a forgotten element. I wouldn't want someone to swap their car and then realize they can't register it once their emissions time rolls around.
I'm guessing that in California and prolly some other states, you'd need to go to a special DMV referee just to get a permit to pass the eyeball and ECU ID test (OBDII). Then, maybe get the exhaust snorkel tested every year?
Yes! The agony of going through all the hassles of putting the K-engine into your car, and it DOESN'T pass?
Last edited by windhund116; 04-27-2023 at 11:25 AM.
04-26-2023, 01:57 PM
