S2000 Under The Hood S2000 Technical and Mechanical discussions.

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Old 10-12-2021, 09:50 AM
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Recently I had to drive my 01S with 74k miles from Texas to IL, around 14 hours. Around halfway through the trip the car would start breaking up in higher RPMs, I started to avoid high RPMs because of this, and eventually the car wouldn't let me go above 6k, then 5k and so on. it got to the point where I could not accelerate at all. Restarting my ecu by pulling the fuze would solve the problem for a short while only to come back the same way, this was repeated multiple times. Eventually this all caused a misfire on cyl #4 light that went away after restarting the ecu. Once I got home I took it to my mechanic who replaced the plugs, #4 coil pack, #1 injector, the MAP sensor, and did a valve adjustment. The car ran perfect afterwards, better than it ever has since I have owned it. 3 weeks of normal driving no problems, until I had to drive to SC, around 13 hours. 6 hours into the trip the problem came back, the same way as before. And I handled it the same way as before by repeatedly restarting the ecu until I got to where I was going. Now in SC without a trusted mechanic I took it to a dealership, I spent around $300 for them to tell me there is a problem and for them to suggest to replace the vtec solenoid and almost every part of the intake system. They quoted me above a grand for all this service, so I left. Still the car has the same problems, but only when driving over 2 hours. Also to note the car has been idling rough since this all started.

Happy to answer any questions, I just want my car to run right. Thanks in advance
Old 10-12-2021, 10:26 AM
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I'm not sure why the VTEC solenoid or intake would cause this. I could be wrong but I don't see it. I recently had a misfire on Cylinder 4. I suspected valve adjustment and bad coil pack(s). When the shop was taking things apart, they realized that most of the spark plug tube seals were leaking. Apparently they are difficult to set properly when a mechanic pulls the valve cover. Since you recently had the valves adjusted and it seemed to be running well, I'd start there. You can remove the spark plug cover and pull the coils to see if they're soaked in oil. My exhaust valves were somewhat tight but I think the real misfire code was probably from my #4 coilpack dripping in oil.

I ended up replacing all valve cover gaskets and coil packs because they're old and they do fail. Up to you but new coil packs are a decent idea. Yours are 20 years old.
Old 10-12-2021, 10:39 AM
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How long have you owned this car? You joined the forum this month so I'm guessing this car is new-to-you?

Someone else had a similar problem in the past couple of weeks and did many of the same things you note. Hit the rev limiter well below 8000 rpm. It turned out the valve train was physically incorrect (he'd had the head off) probably out of time by a "tooth." Did you confirm the cams were in the proper timing position when adjusting the valves? Easy enough to check but you gotta remove the valve cover. Someone will post the diagram -- very easy to check.

Setting the valves to the loose side of the spec seems to offer an advantage.

-- Chuck
Old 10-12-2021, 10:40 AM
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Heard, I will check the coils again this week, although last time there was no oil. Is there any way to test if a coil pack is failing?
Old 10-12-2021, 10:42 AM
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chuck, Ive owned the car for almost a year. I did read that forum! ill check this week and get back to yall
Old 10-12-2021, 11:01 AM
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This is pretty characteristic of a coil or spark plug issue.
Old 10-12-2021, 11:03 AM
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Did you get a chance to pull any/all CEL codes?
Old 10-12-2021, 11:06 AM
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In terms of something being physically off about the set of cams or valves, I doubt it's cam timing. I say that because the OP indicated that it ran better than ever and had no issues running out to high RPM's after receiving the car from having been opened up. For that reason, I especially doubt cam timing off. Valve adjustment *could* still be the issue or in part but I doubt it given OPs timeline unless they did not tighten down the jam nuts. I'm not sure how to diagnose coil packs. K20A coil packs fit and are cheaper to buy. Part # 30520-RRA-007
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Old 10-12-2021, 11:29 AM
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Windhund116, The only CEL was the misfire for cyl #4
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Old 10-12-2021, 11:32 AM
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Jub, that makes sense. I think ill just bite the bullet and order the coil packs then, thanks for the part #


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