A.O.

So I would like to be able to work on my new to me 2005, and there is no way to do a lot of this stuff without picking it up. So what is the consensus of what to use? No way do I want one of those permanently mounted 2 or 4 post lifts, too expensive and I dont want it in the way all the time. So do you mostly go with floor jacks ( I have 2) and jack stands, or something on the order of the Quick jacks? Are there other options out there and if so what? And is there a good place to pick up used ones?
Thanks , Scott

JWN6264

I've used this jack for about 10 years now: https://smile.amazon.com/Arcan-XL2T-...zcF9hdGY&psc=1

Heavy as a beast, but reliable and easy to use. It can reach the differential lift point and also the front center lift point fairly easily. I do have to drive the front tires up on 2x10s to get the jack under the front.

I use jack stands along with the jack for a lot of work where I don't get underneath the car. I built some interlocking wheel cribs for when I'll be under the car. The wheel cribs get the car high enough that I have plenty of room while rolling around on a creeper.

Save the Manual Wagons!

I am definitely not an expert, but having said that, I like the plastic ramps quite a bit. If I'm not taking the wheels off I drive up the ramps. Quickest, easiest, super secure.

This year I finally got a "real" low-profile floor jack from Harbor Freight ($160) that reaches the front and rear center lift points. It is worth every penny. I jack it up in the center and support it with jack stand on each side. If I'm crawling under the car, I also put a wheel/tire behind the jack stand for insurance.

If you watch the DIYGuys videos on YouTube, you can see how he lifts and lowers the S2000 in most videos.

Chuck S

As pictured last week I have the EZCarlift. More expensive than others? Completely mechanical (NO hydraulics) with worm gear drive which I believe is a safer more stable system -- has to be cranked up and back down using a corded electric drill. 4400 pound capacity. Not particularly fast to lift the car, maybe 90 seconds. Stores on its side against the wall in my garage and slides under the car when needed.

There is an optional moving caster kit that will allow the car to be hand pushed around the garage as needed. Helpful for storing the car into a corner of the garage where it can't be driven.

-- Chuck

GBR!

I use a 3-ton extra long reach low profile Daytona jack from Harbor Freight with ESCO “shorty” jack stands. As you can see from pics I like to have wheel blocks under the set of wheels on the end that I’m working under for extra safety. Set up works great and happy overall.

Billman250

Race Ramps.

darcyw

1. Quickjack.
2. Race ramps

darcy

Fokker

I use a QuickJack and some small planks of plywood to lift the car up. I could do it with just the QuickJack and their low profile blocks, but those blocks allow the frame to come into contact with the platforms themselves, which I didn't want, hence the extra ~5/8" clearance needed. A stock height vehicle should be able to clear the platforms with medium blocks without assistance.

spider2k

i just had a 2 post installed in my basement. im getting too old to be using jack stands and the price was worth it. now to just clean up down there so i can use it!

Slowcrash_101

Drive on ramps, jack up the front center jacking point, remove ramps, place jackstands, then raise the rear, and place jackstands. Throw vinyl tarp under the car, and get to work.