Let's talk about Brake Bleeders
12-04-2002, 09:15 PM
#1
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Let's talk about Brake Bleeders
First of all, the size we need is M10 X 1.25, if I'm not mistaken. So, what are our options, and what should we be looking for?
1) SpeedBleeder
http://www.speedbleeder.com
2) Earl's Solo Bleeder
http://store.summitracing.com/productdetai...257#largerimage
3) Russell Speed Bleeder
http://www.russellperformance.com/automoti...ed_bleeders.htm
Here are some of the rumors I have heard
#1, the Speedbleeder, is made of a relatively softer metal, causing it to sometimes strip and get stuck in the caliper. It can also leak at the threads because of the way the seal is created.
#2, Earl's Solo Bleeder, made of a harder material, is less prone to stripping and also seals differently. Leaking should not be an issue.
#3 - I have not heard the Russell speed bleeder mentioned on this board. Is it the same thing as #1? It does look quite similar.
I am leaning towards the Earl's Solo Bleeder, but the Speedbleeder seems to be the one that more people on the board are using. Any thoughts or experiences?
1) SpeedBleeder
http://www.speedbleeder.com
2) Earl's Solo Bleeder
http://store.summitracing.com/productdetai...257#largerimage
3) Russell Speed Bleeder
http://www.russellperformance.com/automoti...ed_bleeders.htm
Here are some of the rumors I have heard
#1, the Speedbleeder, is made of a relatively softer metal, causing it to sometimes strip and get stuck in the caliper. It can also leak at the threads because of the way the seal is created.
#2, Earl's Solo Bleeder, made of a harder material, is less prone to stripping and also seals differently. Leaking should not be an issue.
#3 - I have not heard the Russell speed bleeder mentioned on this board. Is it the same thing as #1? It does look quite similar.
I am leaning towards the Earl's Solo Bleeder, but the Speedbleeder seems to be the one that more people on the board are using. Any thoughts or experiences?
12-04-2002, 10:01 PM
#2
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Wow, good info!
These types of bleeders are very popular, but note that they can leak and either you still need a second person to pump the brakes while you watch or if you pump yourself you can't see when all the bubbles are out. Sometimes it takes a very long time to get them all out and so you never really know when to stop pumping if you are by yourself. If you have a helper then of course there is no need for them, the factory bolts work fine.
For these reasons I prefer the Power Bleeder. You attach the tank to the car's master cylinder, add some fluid, pressurize the tank, and then bleed each brake normally. The tank acts as your helper to keep the system pressurized. Downsides are that some wasted brake fluid is left in the tank and the attachment between the tank and master cylinder is a bit clumsy and prone to leaking if you do not tighten the connectors evenly and properly. For the money I think it is a good value and after a few times you will wonder how you did without it.
Now that I think about this more, I just realized that you really don't have to add fluid to the tank as long as you don't bleed too much. So there need not be wasted fluid and nor a risk of an attachment leak.
These types of bleeders are very popular, but note that they can leak and either you still need a second person to pump the brakes while you watch or if you pump yourself you can't see when all the bubbles are out. Sometimes it takes a very long time to get them all out and so you never really know when to stop pumping if you are by yourself. If you have a helper then of course there is no need for them, the factory bolts work fine.
For these reasons I prefer the Power Bleeder. You attach the tank to the car's master cylinder, add some fluid, pressurize the tank, and then bleed each brake normally. The tank acts as your helper to keep the system pressurized. Downsides are that some wasted brake fluid is left in the tank and the attachment between the tank and master cylinder is a bit clumsy and prone to leaking if you do not tighten the connectors evenly and properly. For the money I think it is a good value and after a few times you will wonder how you did without it.
Now that I think about this more, I just realized that you really don't have to add fluid to the tank as long as you don't bleed too much. So there need not be wasted fluid and nor a risk of an attachment leak.
12-05-2002, 12:58 AM
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Qube,
stay away from these bleeders. They are prone to leak as MV stated. I bought the Earl's-installed, then de-installed. Leak. The spring mechanism failed. Stock is fine, and you get a better bleed with some help.
stay away from these bleeders. They are prone to leak as MV stated. I bought the Earl's-installed, then de-installed. Leak. The spring mechanism failed. Stock is fine, and you get a better bleed with some help.
12-05-2002, 06:47 AM
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I have speedbleeders, and use them for purging fluid, not the final bleed. They can be operated manually like standard bleeders, and do not leak any air when operated in that fashion.
The thread sealant does seem to wear out, especially noticable when using a suction type bleeder like the Mityvac.
The thread sealant does seem to wear out, especially noticable when using a suction type bleeder like the Mityvac.
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12-05-2002, 08:50 AM
#9
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I've used Speedbleeders and Earl's Solo Bleeders. The Speedbleeders worked fine until the thread sealant started leaking. Soon after that I had the calipers rebuilt and the technician threw out the Speedbleeders, so I decided to try the Solo Bleeders. So far, I like them. I haven't had a problem with leaving bubbles in the system. I replace fluid and bleed brakes about 4-5 times per year, usually just before a DE day at the track. HTH.
12-05-2002, 02:15 PM
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I sell the Earl's Solo=Bleeders . Here is a link to their web site. http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLine/Prod...PHS/280031.html
You will se that the spring has nothing to do with the sealing of the bleeder . The sealing surface of the bleeder is brass it does not require much toque to keep bleeder from leaking . The only bleeder that was returned ,was tightened so much that the steel part was crushed and the brass part was totally deformed . The spring is only used to keep pressure on the seat while you bleed the brakes . There is no thread sealant required on the straight cut threads in the caliper . ( you can not effectively seal straight cut threads).
Brad
Pinnacle Braking Systems
You will se that the spring has nothing to do with the sealing of the bleeder . The sealing surface of the bleeder is brass it does not require much toque to keep bleeder from leaking . The only bleeder that was returned ,was tightened so much that the steel part was crushed and the brass part was totally deformed . The spring is only used to keep pressure on the seat while you bleed the brakes . There is no thread sealant required on the straight cut threads in the caliper . ( you can not effectively seal straight cut threads).
Brad
Pinnacle Braking Systems