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Update 9/21/20 - So I loosened all the rear suspension bolts and the lower shock wouldn't line up, then I loosened the rear subframe and the it still won't line up. I have to force the shock towards the front of the car to make it go between the lower arm. It can't be this hard to do and I'm sure the factory didn't have to do that but I can't figure out why it won't line up. I'd call the shop that did it but they went out of business in 2015. Here are a couple of pics.
Trying to put the new LR Koni is and I got the top nuts on but I'm fighting to get the bottom bolt in. I need 6 hands - 2 to push the shock in, 2 to pull on the crow bar and 2 to get the bolt in. This is the shock at rest with the top nuts on. Is it normally this far from the bolt hole when at rest before you put it in?
Last edited by WarrenW; 09-21-2020 at 01:01 PM.
Reason: Edited for upate - 9/21/20
It's just not Konis that do that, many other brands are hard to get on the rear lower control arms. I used a long (5-6 ft long) 2x4 wood stud under the chassis and over the control arm, I stood on the 2x4 and really leveraged it to get the bottom of the shock to slide over. An extra set of hands could help put the bolt in once you get the control arm pushed down far enough.
Also, all the bushings need to be clocked, so hopefully you also loosened all the control arm bolts?
No, haven't undone the sway bar end link, didn't think of that actually. Thanks.
By clocked I assume you mean torqued. No, haven't loosened the control arm bolts, was planning to re-torque all the bolts in the rear after new shocks were installed.
It's just not Konis that do that, many other brands are hard to get on the rear lower control arms. I used a long (5-6 ft long) 2x4 wood stud under the chassis and over the control arm, I stood on the 2x4 and really leveraged it to get the bottom of the shock to slide over. An extra set of hands could help put the bolt in once you get the control arm pushed down far enough.
Yeah this is what I did minus the 2x4. I had to stand on the hub to get the arm to drop far enough for my friend to get the bolt in.
I am surprised that so many people choose to ride the struggle bus on this particular job.
These cars were mass assembled and are meant to be serviced easily.
In general, if you're struggling...stop. You're doing something incorrectly.
Think about it...
Do you think the intended procedure for replacing shocks really involves jumping on 2x4's, extra people, or scissor jacks wedged against the body?
Does that UCA look like it should have a pry bar put between its webs and leaned on to absorb the resultant force from a few hundred LB-FT of torsion? You're probably asking that poor web to handle almost a few thousand LB of force by prying on it.
No, clocking os not torquing. Clocking is repositioning the bushings to their new ride height.
Failure to do this step will result in uneven ride height, wonkey handling, and eventually torn bushings (which are seriously not fun to replace).
To clock bushings:
Ideally you do this on a drive on lift where car is level, resting on its tires with suspension at ride height, and you can reach all tbe suspension bolts. But if you don't have access to such a lift:
Car safely on jack stands under the body, and level.
All four wheels removed
All suspension bolts with a bushing loosened (Front: upper control arm both bolts, lower control arm front bolt, lower shock mount. Rear: upper control arm both bolts lower control arm both bolts, lower shock mount, toe arm)
Place jack under suspension at one corner, then jack until that corner of the car just barely lifts off its jack stand. Now all the weight of that corner is on its suspension. This simulates that corner at ride height.
NOW you can tighten, then torque down, each suspension bolt. Just be super careful, and don't get under tbe the car at all, as this corner is no longer on its stand.
If you aren't comfortable doing this yourself, bring it to a shop. If they look at you funny when you mention all the bushings need to be clocked because you changed ride height, you are in the wrong shop. Keep looking.
Yep, I was feeling like it shouldn't be that hard but I didn't think about loosening all the bolts before I put the new shock in. I had to fight with too many other things. Shit like that clouds the thinking process. I started loosening the bolts on the rear but ran into several that were stuck so shot them w/ penetrating oil and back at it next time.
09-19-2020, 04:25 PM
Update - Left Rear Koni at rest - is this normal?
