S2000 Under The Hood S2000 Technical and Mechanical discussions.

Leak down and compression test

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Old 07-27-2017, 12:36 PM
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Originally Posted by s2000Junky
You are nearing the limit on # 1&4 and over on #2. The leak down numbers don't really point to HG to me, plus there are other more apparent signs of HG failure that will show up over any leak down test such as contaminated oil. If you heard no air coming from the exhaust or intake side then that's not valves. You did mention hearing air escape from the front valve cover breather? That would be piston rings.
I just changed my oil a week ago and did not see anything in it. Did not hear anything from intake nor exhaust. The car has 163k on it i just thought it would be the HG or rings. I check to make sure my coolant was still the same color and it was.
Old 07-27-2017, 01:11 PM
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Sounds like ring wear. I wouldn't worry about it too much, just keep driving until it gets worse. Chances are you will start going through some oil usage, and that will get to the point of ridiculous amounts and that's when you drop in a used long block.
Old 07-27-2017, 01:55 PM
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Originally Posted by s2000Junky
...you will start going through some oil usage, and that will get to the point of ridiculous amounts and that's when you drop in a used long block.
I get the feeling these engines cannot be easily rebuilt? Is that the situation?
Old 07-27-2017, 02:20 PM
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Originally Posted by jyeung528
maybe scored cylinder wall, did you have a looksie with borescope?
I could try that and see
Old 07-27-2017, 03:17 PM
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Originally Posted by rpg51
I get the feeling these engines cannot be easily rebuilt? Is that the situation?
Pretty much. One company ( I think its Mallory) makes an FRM compatible size piston for this engine, but only works if you need no more then just 0.25 over bore on the FRM cylinder liner in block, which isnt much leeway. These high revving engines commonly get ovalized cylinders after a lot of miles which puts you out of that option. Its probably your issue at 160k if the car has been run hard and put away wet. So the other option is the common iron sleeve in the engine, which then means forged pistons, which then means higher gap tolerances for two dissimilar metals with different expanding character, which ultimately means more cold running piston slap which then means added wear and lower longevity over a factory engine. Its a must for crazy level FI options though which is why its done. After all that said and done, thats assuming you can still find a builder that understands this engine and does the rebuild properly.

So yeah that leaves you with the most cost effective and reliable used option, assuming you get a good one.

Last edited by s2000Junky; 07-27-2017 at 03:24 PM.
Old 07-27-2017, 03:51 PM
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^^^ Its Mahle but on all the info.
Old 07-27-2017, 05:23 PM
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Well depends, it's hard to refinish the cylinders, but if the bores aren't damaged, then re-ringing them is all that's needed. However, my guess is the top end is the problem. If the guides are loose, half of the time you can just lap in new valves and that's that. Installing valve guides is tricky on these engines, the supertech guides have a little lip that makes it a little easier, as the install height is critical. I think that using guide inserts and reaming them to size would be a better choice if new valves doesn't do the trick. Of course if you're going to be replacing valves or guides you will be changing seals.
Old 07-28-2017, 11:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Slowcrash_101
Well depends, it's hard to refinish the cylinders, but if the bores aren't damaged, then re-ringing them is all that's needed. However, my guess is the top end is the problem. If the guides are loose, half of the time you can just lap in new valves and that's that. Installing valve guides is tricky on these engines, the supertech guides have a little lip that makes it a little easier, as the install height is critical. I think that using guide inserts and reaming them to size would be a better choice if new valves doesn't do the trick. Of course if you're going to be replacing valves or guides you will be changing seals.
In this case you would hear air escaping out of the intake or exhaust side, and OP did not. He heard air come from the bottom end up through the timing cover since he had no valve cover on. If he did have a valve cover on that air would have been directed up through the front breather and pcv openings.
Old 07-28-2017, 01:27 PM
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*****UPDATE*******

Just did another compression test cylinder 1-2 200 and 3-4 210. This was done on a 2bar warm engine.
Old 07-31-2017, 03:47 PM
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what about leakdown?


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