le1605 use in "Cold" Weather
#2
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Originally Posted by sillyboybmxer,Nov 16 2007, 08:47 PM
i read that its not for use in arctic climate.....but what does that mean ? how cold is toooo cold?
#3
Thread Starter
well living here in nevada it does get into the teens in the winter time,....maybe even single digits at night, but warms up usually during the week to at least 40-50 usually. should i be ok?? what is the consequence of getting the oil toooo cold?? just the need to let it warm up a little longer before driving?
#4
Secondly, LE607 is NOT for use in cold weather. No straight 90w diff fluid really is, as they tend to have higher pour points than say a 75w90. NOTE: LE 607 is been replaced by LE1605
QUOTE (Road Rage)
1) LE-607 is GL-5 rated. Honda cannot refuse a warranty claim based on use of this lubricant.
2) LE-607 is not for arctic use, but it has a rated PP (pour point) of -11 degF. That is the lowest PP I have seen for a 90w gear oil.
QUOTE (xviper)
Differential Oil:
IMPORTANT WARNING ABOUT HONDA SUPPLIED DIFF FLUID!
Even after years of this info being out there, some folks are still getting gooned with regards to Honda supplying the WRONG DIFF FLUID! This is important enough that I thought it worthy to put up here. Take a look at these and BE CAREFUL! .....
http://forums.s2ki.com/forums/showthread.p...threadid=115704
http://forums.s2ki.com/forums/showthread.p...threadid=199536
gotta love stickies
QUOTE (Road Rage)
1) LE-607 is GL-5 rated. Honda cannot refuse a warranty claim based on use of this lubricant.
2) LE-607 is not for arctic use, but it has a rated PP (pour point) of -11 degF. That is the lowest PP I have seen for a 90w gear oil.
QUOTE (xviper)
Differential Oil:
IMPORTANT WARNING ABOUT HONDA SUPPLIED DIFF FLUID!
Even after years of this info being out there, some folks are still getting gooned with regards to Honda supplying the WRONG DIFF FLUID! This is important enough that I thought it worthy to put up here. Take a look at these and BE CAREFUL! .....
http://forums.s2ki.com/forums/showthread.p...threadid=115704
http://forums.s2ki.com/forums/showthread.p...threadid=199536
gotta love stickies
#5
Registered User
I think 0F is a good rule of thumb. Toyota says to use SAE 90 GL5 in my Tundra rear diff for temperatures above 0F. If temperatures are expected to be below 0F, use 80W90 GL 5.
I hope this helps.
I hope this helps.
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sillyboybmxer Posted on Nov 17 2007, 08:28 AM
That's still way above the pour point of LE-1605, being -11F.
So, yes, you're ok.
If it gets toooo cold it will stop flowing.
The final drive (pinion and ring) is almost submerged in oil (the pinion is).
When the ring & pinion rotate oil has to flow in between parts to avoid metal/metal contact.
Besides, all mechanical parts need some warming up, always!
Especially at 0F.
At the temps you (the OP) mentioned, one has to think twice about engine oil too IMO.
A dino 10W-30 is not your best choice IMO (even so the manual says it is).
There are better viscosities available (5W-30's and 0W-30's)
innovation Posted on Nov 17 2007, 11:46 AM
Define "cold"
Without that definition, this statement really doesn't mean anything.
Thirdly, all the 75W-90 gear oils I have seen specs of, have a much (up to 30%) lower visosity at operating temp.
And that's when it really matters (And that's why I think one should not use 75W-90, and guess what, so does Honda! )
That's when your high offset final drive gears need their protection.
Fourth, even at "arctic" temps the diff will reach operating temp.
Maybe even more because of all the drifting
INDYMAC Posted on Nov 17 2007, 01:14 PM
If one feels the need for a multiweight diff oil, pick one with the viscosity numbers close together (80W-90 or 85W-90) if you can find them.
Less spread means less Viscosity Index Improvers, those chemicals may loose their function, leaving you with thin diff oil.
And yes.. the same applies for engine oil (in theory) but the lubrication fluid dynamics and type of bearings and such in an engine are completely different.
In engines one realy wants to go thin when cold to get oil flow.
Engines have oil pumps, diffs don't (well.. "our" diff doesn't)
well living here in nevada it does get into the teens in the winter time,....maybe even single digits at night, but warms up usually during the week to at least 40-50 usually. should i be ok??
So, yes, you're ok.
what is the consequence of getting the oil toooo cold?? just the need to let it warm up a little longer before driving?
The final drive (pinion and ring) is almost submerged in oil (the pinion is).
When the ring & pinion rotate oil has to flow in between parts to avoid metal/metal contact.
Besides, all mechanical parts need some warming up, always!
Especially at 0F.
At the temps you (the OP) mentioned, one has to think twice about engine oil too IMO.
A dino 10W-30 is not your best choice IMO (even so the manual says it is).
There are better viscosities available (5W-30's and 0W-30's)
innovation Posted on Nov 17 2007, 11:46 AM
Secondly, LE607 is NOT for use in cold weather. No straight 90w diff fluid really is, as they tend to have higher pour points than say a 75w90. NOTE: LE 607 is been replaced by LE1605
Without that definition, this statement really doesn't mean anything.
Thirdly, all the 75W-90 gear oils I have seen specs of, have a much (up to 30%) lower visosity at operating temp.
And that's when it really matters (And that's why I think one should not use 75W-90, and guess what, so does Honda! )
That's when your high offset final drive gears need their protection.
Fourth, even at "arctic" temps the diff will reach operating temp.
Maybe even more because of all the drifting
INDYMAC Posted on Nov 17 2007, 01:14 PM
If temperatures are expected to be below 0F, use 80W90 GL 5.
Less spread means less Viscosity Index Improvers, those chemicals may loose their function, leaving you with thin diff oil.
And yes.. the same applies for engine oil (in theory) but the lubrication fluid dynamics and type of bearings and such in an engine are completely different.
In engines one realy wants to go thin when cold to get oil flow.
Engines have oil pumps, diffs don't (well.. "our" diff doesn't)
#7
Originally Posted by SpitfireS,Nov 17 2007, 07:30 AM
....That's still way above the pour point of LE-1605, being -11F.
So, yes, you're ok.....
So, yes, you're ok.....
Based on that LE607/LE1605 would be safe to use to down to around 10 deg F [ -11 + 20 = 9 deg F ]
Do you still agree with that rule?
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trapper Posted on Nov 17 2007, 03:44 PM
I remember posting that.
I was reading online about gear oils and pour points so maybe I even posted a link to a site where I found that info?
Here are 2 links to sites where they recommend +9F.
http://www.substech.com/dokuwiki/doku.php?id=gear_oils
http://www.engineersedge.com/gears/gear_lu...acteristics.htm
That makes the 0F for SAE 90 mentioned by INDYMAC pretty close.
Do I still agree?
Is there any relation to outside temp and diff oil mentioned in the manual?
No.
(Is there any relation to outside temp and transmission oil mentioned in the manual?
No.)
So I guess I agree with Honda to use (old spec) SAE 90 GL-5 in the diff.
(Maybe Honda never ever thought of people buying a softtop in the Arctic?)
In addition to what I mentioned earlier: if one feels like using a multigrade because of lower temps (-11F and lower) on a regular basis, I would use a 75W-110 (Amsoil) or a 75W-140 (Castrol) or simular.
That way you start thicker and when (not if ) the oil shears down it will not hurt.
OTOH, its a great excuse not to go to work: "Well.. I can't come to work because my diff oil is solid and I can't drive.. sorry...bye!"
Picture this: put a screwdriver is a jar of "warm" diff oil and put it in the freezer.
When the diff oil is solid, pull out the screwdriver.
It will still be covered in solid oil, like grease.
Its not that all lubrication will fail if temps drop below pour point.
The "solid" oil will not be like candle wax.
Its not ideal, true, and if you have to start & drive your car on a regular basis in those temps, start looking for the 75W-110/140 oils IMO.
Those oils will be available there I guess, as those temps are a regular thing.
SpitfireS .... In reply to a post of mine a year or so back you indicated that a rule of thumb to use for safe temperature use of diff fluid was: Pour Point + 20 deg F.
Based on that LE607/LE1605 would be safe to use to down to around 10 deg F [ -11 + 20 = 9 deg F ]
Do you still agree with that rule?
Based on that LE607/LE1605 would be safe to use to down to around 10 deg F [ -11 + 20 = 9 deg F ]
Do you still agree with that rule?
I was reading online about gear oils and pour points so maybe I even posted a link to a site where I found that info?
Here are 2 links to sites where they recommend +9F.
http://www.substech.com/dokuwiki/doku.php?id=gear_oils
http://www.engineersedge.com/gears/gear_lu...acteristics.htm
That makes the 0F for SAE 90 mentioned by INDYMAC pretty close.
Do I still agree?
Is there any relation to outside temp and diff oil mentioned in the manual?
No.
(Is there any relation to outside temp and transmission oil mentioned in the manual?
No.)
So I guess I agree with Honda to use (old spec) SAE 90 GL-5 in the diff.
(Maybe Honda never ever thought of people buying a softtop in the Arctic?)
In addition to what I mentioned earlier: if one feels like using a multigrade because of lower temps (-11F and lower) on a regular basis, I would use a 75W-110 (Amsoil) or a 75W-140 (Castrol) or simular.
That way you start thicker and when (not if ) the oil shears down it will not hurt.
OTOH, its a great excuse not to go to work: "Well.. I can't come to work because my diff oil is solid and I can't drive.. sorry...bye!"
Picture this: put a screwdriver is a jar of "warm" diff oil and put it in the freezer.
When the diff oil is solid, pull out the screwdriver.
It will still be covered in solid oil, like grease.
Its not that all lubrication will fail if temps drop below pour point.
The "solid" oil will not be like candle wax.
Its not ideal, true, and if you have to start & drive your car on a regular basis in those temps, start looking for the 75W-110/140 oils IMO.
Those oils will be available there I guess, as those temps are a regular thing.
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