Killing ECU's!
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Killing ECU's!
Hey guys, I'm helping a friend with his S2000 which seems to be eating ECU's for some reason.
The car is an AP1, and it's on it's second ECU. I've disabled the immobilizer in the second ECU and it started and ran for a few minutes and killed another ECU.
So far, I have found that five pins on the ECU that have both power and ground. But for some reason, I believe it's right, allow me to explain first.
I checked each of these pins with a multimeter tested to ground, and they have continuity. When I turn the key on, these same pins have power. But for some reason I think it's supposed to do that (short to ground when off). They have no power when off whatsoever.
The pins are in ECU Plug A (Blue one)
A6: EVAP wires are Red/Yellow
A18: MIL Green/Orange
A20: Radiator Fan Control Green
And these pins which are in ECU Plug C (Grey)
C1: Primary O2 Heater Black/White
C11: Secondary O2 Heater Black/White
Would anyone be a good sport and check these wires on their own car?? I'll even paypal you some beer money!
The car is an AP1, and it's on it's second ECU. I've disabled the immobilizer in the second ECU and it started and ran for a few minutes and killed another ECU.
So far, I have found that five pins on the ECU that have both power and ground. But for some reason, I believe it's right, allow me to explain first.
I checked each of these pins with a multimeter tested to ground, and they have continuity. When I turn the key on, these same pins have power. But for some reason I think it's supposed to do that (short to ground when off). They have no power when off whatsoever.
The pins are in ECU Plug A (Blue one)
A6: EVAP wires are Red/Yellow
A18: MIL Green/Orange
A20: Radiator Fan Control Green
And these pins which are in ECU Plug C (Grey)
C1: Primary O2 Heater Black/White
C11: Secondary O2 Heater Black/White
Would anyone be a good sport and check these wires on their own car?? I'll even paypal you some beer money!
#2
Registered User
Thread Starter
Well guess no one likes beer.....
All you have to do is probe any of these wires, make sure it has continuity with ground when off (take a test light, hook up to positive battery terminal), probe the wire and it should light up.
Turn the key on, probe it again, and the test light should be off, then (without shutting off the ignition), swap the test light to the negative battery terminal), then probe the same wire again and see if it lights. up.
All you have to do is probe any of these wires, make sure it has continuity with ground when off (take a test light, hook up to positive battery terminal), probe the wire and it should light up.
Turn the key on, probe it again, and the test light should be off, then (without shutting off the ignition), swap the test light to the negative battery terminal), then probe the same wire again and see if it lights. up.
#3
I'm pretty sure the O2 sensors, evap purge and alternator field supplies are all connected to the same fuse. They would only probe out as as continuity to earth due to the load on them. Try testing with the alternator 4 pin plug and O2 sensors unplugged and you should see some resistance to ground.
I would also check your fuel pump relay. Swap with the rear demister next door in the same fusebox. I've had these play up and the car sounds completely dead like the ECU has died but its only the fuel pump not cycling on power on/start.
I would also check your fuel pump relay. Swap with the rear demister next door in the same fusebox. I've had these play up and the car sounds completely dead like the ECU has died but its only the fuel pump not cycling on power on/start.
#4
Registered User
Thread Starter
Chris,
I'll check it and report back.
Also I know the ECU is fried because I tried it in another s2000 (keep in mind I disabled the immobilizer), and no spark.
I'll check it and report back.
Also I know the ECU is fried because I tried it in another s2000 (keep in mind I disabled the immobilizer), and no spark.
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