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I have the normal K&N replacement filter with the stock airbox. I dont feel a lot of hp increase with it over stock. And if i took off the stock airbox, the sound is better but i can see that there a lost in power especially in the low end...I dont think that the aircharger will add 10 hp. Maybe 2-4 but not 10.
interesting post ---
I'm happy with the K&N filter --
this just may be an advancement over the stock box --
please continue the post so that we can learn more
I have not done any mods to my S yet but Remember reading somewhere on here the sound difference if you remove the stock airbox lid so I did and wow the car sounds like a beast, I was instantly hooked and started reading up on intakes and I am gonna go with the K&N as well cause for one I work at an auto parts store and get it for like half of the cheapest price I saw in this thread and everyone seems to say that its a good runner. I did definately notice when I took off the stock air cover that after some driving and the engine bay warming up that the car was getting slugesh cause of all that heat from the engine bay getting sucked in. Also can anyone confirm that the hood seals with the k&N heat sheilding when closed ?
I currently have a gutted stock airbox because of horrible heatsoak in hot muggy Florida but here are a few ghetto creations for my Weapon- R intake.
Rubbermaid homemade airbox that works great and looks funny! Ram air!
We all like to dream don't we? Hey I'd love to think installing a CAI will give me 10 HP. Personally I don't buy it, not on this engine! Honda has this motor fairly maxed out as it is, not to say there is no room for improvement but this ain't no WRX motor where with simple bolt ons I got over 320 at the crank from a 227 HP motor.
First of all, 10HP is noticeable... it all depends on where the 10HP is. Are we talking peak power figures or are we talking about performance throughout the entire stretch of rpms? For example, if the extra 10HP came in at 8500 rpms versus one that had it at 5000 rpms, I'd go with the latter since I'd be able to use that more effectively and I don't intend on "sitting" at 8500 rpms for extended periods anyway.
A lot of noobs only look at peak performance numbers and show little concern towards the power under the curve. You see, if the F20C was made like crap, then we'd all could do just about anything to improve on it since it's crap wouldn't we? We could use PVC sewer pipe with a tube sock for a filter and it should improve on the stock system right? Perhaps, if the motor was made very poorly therefore just about anything you do may help. Not so in reality. Since the engine was tuned very well in stock form, you need to watch out for things like poorly designed "bling-bling" crap. In order for S2000 engines to benefit, aftermarket tuners actually have to take the time to test its effectiveness... there is a reason why Mugen takes a few years to release their products due to R&D. If you start off with a very good working system, it'll take brains and time to improve on what's already good... that's common sense.
CAI's may not provide the kind of benefits you'd expect, but the good ones do a lot. Hook up a scan tool and monitor the IAT (intake air temp) and you'd see that my AEM V2 does a heck of a better job than my stock air box. If you don't want to install it, that's on you and nobody has a problem with that. Like you said, the Honda OEM stuff is pretty good. Keep in mind that the room for improvement is there, you need to know where to look for it, or know someone who knows where to look for that extra performance.
How do you get 320hp from simple bolt on's and measure it at the crank? If you need to remove your motor to do those mods and run an out-of-car engine dyno, how is this considered "simple"?
How do you get 320hp from simple bolt on's and measure it at the crank? If you need to remove your motor to do those mods and run an out-of-car engine dyno, how is this considered "simple"?
lol i think he added up the estimated power gains from all his mods
"lessee.... this cai should give me 20hp, the exhaust 30hp, downpipe/up-pipe 30hp, boost controller 50hp... yeah sounds about right, that's what the magazine says"
if it wasn't an engine dyno, then saying something like "an estimated 320bhp, given X awhp and an estimated Y% drivetrain loss" would be more accurate
06-27-2002, 06:35 PM
Does anyone know if the Air Chager will fit a MY03? I think it would since I do not know of any differences between MY00-02 and MY03.
How do you get 320hp from simple bolt on's and measure it at the crank? If you need to remove your motor to do those mods and run an out-of-car engine dyno, how is this considered "simple"?
