simons2k

This past Sunday I decided it was time to install my springs. The library along with a few threads I've researched helped plenty.

The fronts were a breeze. The rears weren't that bad either except for the left rear. Getting to the 14mm nuts on the top shock tower was a challenge because of the fuel lines. You simply just need to manuever the black boot covering the fuel lines to access the bolts. Other than that, I would say it was a simple process. I took my time making sure I made no mistakes (4 hrs)

Love the way the car looks & handles.

Next project is installing clear diffussers.

honda9krpm

Do you need a spring compressor for the job?

simons2k

I used a spring compressor to remove the oem springs. I've read about some people not using them. I wanted to play it safe (safety in mind). Installing the lowering springs didn't require the use of the compressor. Just push down on shock tower's cap until the threads are exposed, then hand tight the 14mm nut to hold it in place. A side note: I would mark the upper and lower caps of the strut tower with "white out" or something so when you install the the new spring, you can realign the marks and won't have any problems with installing it back on the car. This will let you install the shock back in, perfectly aligning with the lower "A" arm and the top mounting holes in the frame of the car. Hope that made sense.

Remember to preload the suspension before you torque everything down!

honda9krpm

THANKS SIMON
do you mind to detail also how you preload the springs/shocks?

Thanks again

simons2k

I had the car on 2 jack stands, lifting one end of the car at a time. I worked on the rears 1st. With the 2 wheels suspended, I was able to free up my hydrolic jack, using it to preload the suspension. First, get all the bolts back into place: "A" arm bolts (17mm), lower shock mounting bolt (17mm), top shock tower bolts (14mm). BUT DON'T TORQUE THEM JUST YET! Now get your hydrolic jack and place it underneath the suspension (lower A arm) and proceed to jack up the suspension. I used a piece of wood between the jack and the lower A arm as a cushion against possible damage to the suspension. I jacked it up so that the A arm angle was parrallel to the ground. I then torqued
everything down to factory specs. Do this to all four corners.

Another thing is I would remove the ABS sensor and wiring from each corner of the suspension. There are about 4-5, 10mm bolts. Otherwise the ABS wiring will be tugged by the weight of the hanging suspension and suffer from damage.

Take your time. It is a relatively simple mod.

honda9krpm

Thx man