pushinlsteg

Well...

I finally got it. 03. silverstone, 46k miles. $17500.

drove it home yesterday seemed alright...

I heard a valve tap sound last night...so I got a stethescope and listened...#3 definately has some issues, hopefully just an adjustment, and no damage

From there I pulled the plugs...man they were trashed, looked like OEM stock, trashed...


So I decide to do a compression test.

#1-135 psi
#2-220
#3-235
#4-240


So from there I was like man this sucks...I put some oil in #1 cylinder, do the test again, it went to about 175 psi

I put the new plugs in and drive around, the old #1 plug was so trashed I dunno if it even sparked properly, therefore I was thinking of the excess fuel possibly washed the rings, so I figured new plugs, a good burn in the cylinders would get the thing cleaned up and re sealed...

I get back from driving. #1 had 120 psi WTF?

The rest went down too by at least 10-15 psi in each cylinder after I drove for about 15 minutes

SO I step it up a notch and get out my leakdown tester....

#1 I did it 2 times. 89% the first time 85% the second
#2-3-4 all had about 92-95%

So the leakdown test doesn't seem half as bad as the compression test, and I hear the compression test is less important as the leakdown

My father builds full race motors for domestic V8 GM cars...he said the compression test could be foul due to a piece of dirt or something on the ring, or stuck in a valve etc...

I came from a non-vtec turbo integra...so I assume adjusting the valves on a vtec need a specific tool or something?

I figured I would just get honda to do a valve adjustment, I'm not sure how much costs though?

I figured I would also get a full diagnostic ran on it, but I dunno how much that is either...


Any input on what could be wrong, or what to do would help. Thanks.

six_speed

you bought a car from a private seller? and you didn't do a compression/leak down test before buying?

Saboten

this thread is going to make me paranoid about every engine noise I hear until I do a compression test

btw hecash by pulling oil pan I presume you are talking about pulling the valve cover instead of the oil pan?

Race Miata

Assuming a quiet working environment, you might be able to hear/feel from the dipstick hole with dipstick removed (leaky ring), the exhaust tail pipe (leaky exhaust valve), and notice a change in note when you vary throttle opening (leaky intake valve).

pushinlsteg

Those are all very helpful ideas...

I will have to get on that as soon as I get another dry day...the car is at the inspection station right now...

I was also wondering about those air pumps? Do they need to be running to keep the car running?

I started the car one time and I heard what sounded like an air pump, almost like a mini supercharger, or turbo spooling up, then it shut off and then the car shut off...

I started it back up and that pump sound stayed and it kept running after that...

I've been going through some weird issues with this thing already, between 2-3 grand part throttle in 2nd gear it'll bog up and down then come back into power...

none of this occured when I went and checked out the car, and test drove it, there was no loss of power when I test drove it, because I've test drove a few and it felt the same, and the car was fairly new, so that is why I did not do a compression test or leakdown...

I cant complain because of the price I guess... I dunno it drives fine other than those few things.

Race Miata

The air pump cycles on and off while the engine is running. Normal operation.

Maybe you need a MAP sensor whack? But then, I thought that applies to the earlier cars only?

beanolo

I think the possible whackin of map sensor was mainly in the AP1's, so his being an 03 it doesnt hurt to try...

Not sure of the exact dates/times when they added the OEM tie strap or new map sensor part #...

GrimReaper

here's the link to the valve adjust. Just about everything you need to know to do it. Pretty simple, just time consuming.

https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=93197

Lots of useful info in the technical forum. Try checking there for other issues.

DOUGHS2K

Its been a costly journey with my s2k.

My story:

I bought the car used 02' 17k miles.

After 2 months I get CEL and take it to dealer, they tell me that it has bad injectores so under warranty they replace all 4 injectors.

I'm happy leave smiling.


2 months later CEL on, go back to dealer. Sir, you might have bent valves but we're not covering it under warranty because we believe it's your fault so your choices are A) let us take the head apart and look and charge you $1200.00 for labor and we leave the head off if we find that the vavles are bent and you tow it home or B) charge you $2500 if the vavles are bent and fix the problem.

Lo and behold the valves in #4 break on me and the engine is cracked.


I bought a practically new F22C and is now sitting in my car. Installed it at home at a cost of $4000.00.

That is my story I can rant on and on but I won't.

I just hurts that my dream HOnda has given me so much grief. I have owned many Hondas in the past but this experience is having a great affect on me owning another one.

One of the most annoying things was hearing the service dept blame me for all the problems.

speed_bump

You buy used you take a risk and sometimes you get burned.

Not necessarily blaming you but possibly the previous owner.