Junkyard Special Kia 4.77 ring & pinion install
06-25-2007, 12:36 PM
#81
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It's too bad you know nothing about the checking distance of the 4.77 set.
Worst case scenario = most likely coming true.
Put the pinion in the housing without the seal and (hopefully new) crush sleeve.
Put the LSD & ring in its bearings and look for a contact patch.
You will need some Prussian Blue dye (or simular)
You may be lucky on your first try.
When assembled look into the housing at the pinion and ring.
The pinion should not stick out too much or be too low.
My 4.57 looked like this:
You see that the top of the pinion is flush with the inside ring tooth.
(On the Richmond gears are the checking distance and backlash engraved and mine were close to spot on)
Good luck.
Worst case scenario = most likely coming true.
Put the pinion in the housing without the seal and (hopefully new) crush sleeve.
Put the LSD & ring in its bearings and look for a contact patch.
You will need some Prussian Blue dye (or simular)
You may be lucky on your first try.
When assembled look into the housing at the pinion and ring.
The pinion should not stick out too much or be too low.
My 4.57 looked like this:
You see that the top of the pinion is flush with the inside ring tooth.
(On the Richmond gears are the checking distance and backlash engraved and mine were close to spot on)
Good luck.
06-25-2007, 07:03 PM
#82
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Originally Posted by SpitfireS,Jun 25 2007, 12:36 PM
It's too bad you know nothing about the checking distance of the 4.77 set.
Worst case scenario = most likely coming true.
Put the pinion in the housing without the seal and (hopefully new) crush sleeve.
Put the LSD & ring in its bearings and look for a contact patch.
You will need some Prussian Blue dye (or simular)
You may be lucky on your first try.
When assembled look into the housing at the pinion and ring.
The pinion should not stick out too much or be too low.
My 4.57 looked like this:
You see that the top of the pinion is flush with the inside ring tooth.
(On the Richmond gears are the checking distance and backlash engraved and mine were close to spot on)
Good luck.
Worst case scenario = most likely coming true.
Put the pinion in the housing without the seal and (hopefully new) crush sleeve.
Put the LSD & ring in its bearings and look for a contact patch.
You will need some Prussian Blue dye (or simular)
You may be lucky on your first try.
When assembled look into the housing at the pinion and ring.
The pinion should not stick out too much or be too low.
My 4.57 looked like this:
You see that the top of the pinion is flush with the inside ring tooth.
(On the Richmond gears are the checking distance and backlash engraved and mine were close to spot on)
Good luck.
Let's see....
I've got a new crush sleeve
I've got a fresh tube of Prussian Blue
My "worst case scenario" probly will come true
I doubt I can get by with "eyeballing" if the pinion is "too high or too low"
And I'm glad your Richmond gear is set up perfectly (e-pat on the back)
Anyways, for those interested, I installed the new bearing with the stock Kia spacer today. BTW, to remove the old one I just busted off the bearing cage and heated up the inner bearing race with a propane torch, knocked right off with a chisel and hammer.
I put the pinion in the freezer (next to my pizza rolls) for a couple days and then heated up the new bearings inner race with the same torch. I then readied the old inner race to meet up with the new inner race (when flipped) and not disturb the bearing cage. I then slid the new bearing on, then the old race (upside down) and then a piece of 2" pipe and gently tapped the new bearing on. Slid right on actually, better than I expected!
Frozen pinion...
presto!
Hope that all makes sense
06-26-2007, 08:21 AM
#85
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I guess I took your post wrong, thanks for helping with some info!
I probly will not be able to mess with this for a few weeks since I am going out of town the next three weekends. I fully know I might end up putting it back together stock again (been there once already), if so no biggie. Damn a daily beater would help out though lol.
FWIW and for anyone curious, right now I have a bit under $200 in the whole setup
I probly will not be able to mess with this for a few weeks since I am going out of town the next three weekends. I fully know I might end up putting it back together stock again (been there once already), if so no biggie. Damn a daily beater would help out though lol.
FWIW and for anyone curious, right now I have a bit under $200 in the whole setup
06-26-2007, 08:46 AM
#86
You must be paying yourself only $3/hr to be at just $200 so far. 
06-26-2007, 08:52 AM
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Originally Posted by JonBoy,Jun 26 2007, 08:46 AM
You must be paying yourself only $3/hr to be at just $200 so far.
08-10-2009, 02:04 PM
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I recently blew out my stock ap1 diff and I'm looking for the cheapest way to replace it. I broke it open and the ring doesn't look too bad but the pinion is destroyed. I plan on replacing both however. I wouldn't mind having a 4.77 final drive. Should I look into doing this? Would I save money?