cdelena

[QUOTE]Originally posted by The Reverend
[B]

I dunno...

RT

I'm thinking you get at least twice the wheel travel since the shocks are mounted closer to the chassis end than the spindle end of the A-arm. I'd guess that the 8mm shock travel equals close to and inch (25.4mm) of wheel travel but I'll need to look at the suspension geometry more closely next time I'm under the car.

The Reverend

I had a 200ish lb. passenger along on the drive today and my spare, sub, toolkit, amp, and cell phone in the car.

(ok, the cell phone doesn't weigh that much...)

slick rick

quote:
I'd guess that the 8mm shock travel equals close to and inch (25.4mm) of wheel travel

I don't think taht's correct. If I'm not mistaken, our rear motion ratio is 1.6:1. That would equate to 12.8 or pretty close to 1/2"

Clovis

[QUOTE]Originally posted by slick rick
[B]quote:
I'd guess that the 8mm shock travel equals close to and inch (25.4mm) of wheel travel

RT

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Clovis
[B]

This is correct.

slick rick

I'm gonna try and hopefully clear a few things out taht I can.

1. My car is pretty low in the rear and it's not on the bumpstops.

2. When Jon said preload wasn't necessary, that is completely true. In an ideal situation you don't want preload on the springs. It sounds to me that some of you guys may be riding on bumpstops and preload helps "lift" the car off the bumpstops. It could be a solution to a problem, but it's def. not ideal. It's very possible that some other factors are involved. I don't know. Maybe the newer bottom brackets are a little too tall and that'w why all this is happening. That still doesn't make JiC liars or "dweebs".

3. Stock springs have quite a bit of preload because they are much softer. That's why you need the compressor tool to take them off. Race coilovers with much heavier springs have much less sag and therefore don't need preload (usually).

4. Helper springs. They make the ride a little softer, specially when you have heavy springs 12kg or more. It makes it more streetable. I'm sure Jon explained that helper springs were an option, and I'm sure he didn't "make" you buy them.

So, it sounds like maybe a little more R&D is needed and hopefully they are willing to work with you guys to help you out.
Either way, the performance levels with these shocks (when properly dialled in) is very close to much, much more costly setups.

I'm gonna be there next week to meeet with Jon and I'll be sure to bring up your concerns.

I'm confident that a "diplomatic" solution can be found.

dk

slick rick

RT,

I personally haven't done the measurment, but I read it somewhere.

This could be pretty useful information to know.

So, if anybody has their car up on a rack and has some time -- why don't "we" measure the front and rear right now?

That way we will have the info for later.

Here's what's needed:

Measurment from the pivot centerline of the a arm to the shock bolt center.

Measurment from the pivot to the centerline of the wheel.

Then you divide one into the other and that's your motion ratio.


Any volunteers?

The Reverend

Already took care of it on Friday...

Kevin tried to tell me you want to be riding completely suspended on the bumpstops . But Jon and Yas (is that how you spell his name?) agreed there should be some travel and addressed it for me. There is talk of a revised lower bracket later this year.

gfacter

I still maintain Kevin is a DWEEB!!

I am sorry but I called several times to get advice on why my car was clunking, Kevin could not help me, but he had me disassemble the shock assy and check to see if it had damping (some are defective from the factory apparently).

Riding on the bump rubbers and or having just a few mm of travel is not acceptable in my book.

Maybe you can get away with little preload with Stiffer springs but I wanted to run the car with the springs that were supposedly extensively tested and the dampers re-valved for US roads.

Over 200 miles in the mountains today, exactly one clunk on a major unseen bump at speed, that is acceptable

George