IRIDUIM BRISK SPARK PLUGS
#2
I doubt you could improve upon the NGK IX series iridiums which you have already. I run BKR7EIX NGK Iridiums, The NGK iridiums have a fine wire center electrode with a tapered ground electrode, and iridium center/tip. I think that is the best combination for performance. Denso Iridiums may offer a bit more performance as their center electrodes are the thinnest of any plug, but they are also more prone to breaking so I personally would not use them.
I think you can get more power with heat range 7 NGK Iridium plugs vs. heat range 8, since you are naturally aspirated. If you remove too much heat from the combustion chamber you can lose power, heat = power as long as you are not having detonation issues. Heat range 7 is cool enough for N/A IMO.
I think you can get more power with heat range 7 NGK Iridium plugs vs. heat range 8, since you are naturally aspirated. If you remove too much heat from the combustion chamber you can lose power, heat = power as long as you are not having detonation issues. Heat range 7 is cool enough for N/A IMO.
#4
I have try OEM platinum after 2 years with 2668 NGK and it was very not good vs 2668, first, i choose OEM to avoid to gap them but mistake, all 4 are out of .039 spec, i need to regap all 4...
For performance, not good, i remove them and reinstall 2668 after speak directly to NKG tech line but the problem is that NGK recommand colder plugs if you have air intake and exhaust but they dont recommant to over gap more that .008 there plugs.
2668 is supposelly to be pregap to .030 but in reality, they are at .025 and gap for the s2ki is .039 to .043 and 2668 cant be, as tech tell to me be gapped to the s2ki gap specs...
Finnally as NGK tech told to me, they do not have proper colder plugs for the s2ki but they recommand to install colder plugs if you have air intake or exhaust!!!
I decide to reinstall 2668 gap to .040 and wow, my lost power with the OEM plugs is back beside i have only a basic set-up (K&N Fipk, test pipe and exhaust)!!!!
For performance, not good, i remove them and reinstall 2668 after speak directly to NKG tech line but the problem is that NGK recommand colder plugs if you have air intake and exhaust but they dont recommant to over gap more that .008 there plugs.
2668 is supposelly to be pregap to .030 but in reality, they are at .025 and gap for the s2ki is .039 to .043 and 2668 cant be, as tech tell to me be gapped to the s2ki gap specs...
Finnally as NGK tech told to me, they do not have proper colder plugs for the s2ki but they recommand to install colder plugs if you have air intake or exhaust!!!
I decide to reinstall 2668 gap to .040 and wow, my lost power with the OEM plugs is back beside i have only a basic set-up (K&N Fipk, test pipe and exhaust)!!!!
#5
Don't listen to the NGK reps, they are only there to sell you a plug that fits the car, they don't know anything about what heat range works best. If you have a heat range 7 plug and a heat range 8 plug and the engine does not detonate, you will always make more power with the heat range 7 on a naturally aspirated engine. Boost and detonation sensitive setups are different, and the F20c engine is very resistant to detonation in NA form, your intake and exhaust won't change that.
Gap the plugs at .043 for better performance and change the plugs a bit sooner, who wants to leave plugs in the car for 100,000 miles anyway ?. Honda starts with .039 on the factory plugs as they want them to last 100,000 miles before the gap gets so big that they need to be replaced. Mine were worn out at 55k miles as the gap increased to over .051" as the center electrode wore down.
Gap the plugs at .043 for better performance and change the plugs a bit sooner, who wants to leave plugs in the car for 100,000 miles anyway ?. Honda starts with .039 on the factory plugs as they want them to last 100,000 miles before the gap gets so big that they need to be replaced. Mine were worn out at 55k miles as the gap increased to over .051" as the center electrode wore down.
#6
Look at this: http://www.ngksparkplugs.ca/document...ge%20Chart.pdf
On my car, the colder plugs have definatly more punch!
On my car, the colder plugs have definatly more punch!
#7
Community Organizer
Look at this: http://www.ngksparkp...nge%20Chart.pdf
On my car, the colder plugs have definatly more punch!
On my car, the colder plugs have definatly more punch!
Sounds like you're trying to convince yourself.
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#10
The way to get increased power with colder spark plugs is through increased ignition timing, or boost, as they pull heat out of the combustion chamber while dumping it into the cooling system.
The S2000 ecu won't advance timing based on combustion chamber temps, it can retard timing if it senses detonation (through knock sensor), and increased intake air temps, and excessive coolant temps. As long as you aren't getting detonation, or have high intake air temps or coolant temps you should be getting all of the timing the ecu will give you.
The S2000 combustion chamber is very resistant to detonation in normal conditions. If you don't have detonation issues due to high combustion chamber temps, and the ecu is giving you the proper ignition timing then removing heat from the chamber (with colder plugs) will not give you any added power. Colder plugs may help with track driving conditions, boost setups, and ignition systems that can be manually programmed.
The S2000 ecu won't advance timing based on combustion chamber temps, it can retard timing if it senses detonation (through knock sensor), and increased intake air temps, and excessive coolant temps. As long as you aren't getting detonation, or have high intake air temps or coolant temps you should be getting all of the timing the ecu will give you.
The S2000 combustion chamber is very resistant to detonation in normal conditions. If you don't have detonation issues due to high combustion chamber temps, and the ecu is giving you the proper ignition timing then removing heat from the chamber (with colder plugs) will not give you any added power. Colder plugs may help with track driving conditions, boost setups, and ignition systems that can be manually programmed.