Kibro

Hey guys,

I just got my new Spoon exhaust from Mingster. I was wondering if any of y'all know on top of your head the tools that I will be needing. Basically, I need the following from the people that have done this in the past:

1. Tips and tricks
2. Problem areas and how to get around them
3. Tools
4. Torque values for the bolts.

Thanks guys!!!

Pappy

I installed my Spoon exhaust a few months ago, here are a few tips

1: The stock exhaust hangers were a bi$th to get off, so that was a problem area, becuase there are two hangers to each muffler.

2: I think you need a 12mm and a 14mm socket for the exhaust change, and i didn't use torque measurements, but just tightened it.

3: I always do this for header and exhaust installs. Just wipe down the Spoon exhaust with rubbing alcohol, so get rid of your fingerprints and oils. If you don't, the prints burn into the pipes, and a nasty ass smell emits from the exhaust....

Nick

CoralDoc

Here's one tip - The exhaust gasket (after the CAT) from an Acura Legend will fit the exhaust for the S2000.

PhoenixINX

Did you not get any WD-40? Geez... of course solid rubber is tough!

After my first exhaust install without the stuff I nearly gave up, second one I tried it... makes installation 100s of times easier.

9kRPMF20C

Just take it to a muffler shop. Im too lazy to get under the car when I don't have access to a lift or power tools.

Kibro

Hehhehehe, But, that's the fun of it. I enjoy working with my car. It is some kind of relaxation to me.

So, there's no definite torque on the bolts, just tighten them as much as i can? Should I assemble to exhaust first (it has two parts) before mounting them on the exhaust hangers?

Also, will I have problems taking the stock exhaust bolts? I just wanna make sure that this is a doable thing for a regular enthusiast like me.

Thanks again!


[QUOTE]Originally posted by 9kRPMF20C
[B]Just take it to a muffler shop.

The Reverend

DO NOT EVER TIGHTEN ANYTHING AS TIGHT AS YOU CAN MAKE IT!!!!!!! Bolts seize over time, so if you tighten something as tight as you can wrench it on there, it will only get tighter and it will then be too tight for you to remove later.

You'll need a 14mm box end for the cat nuts. They will probably be seized, so have some liquid wrench on hand and be VERY VERY CAREFUL NOT TO ROUND THEM!!! Use the liquid wrench, wd40, k-y, whatever you have on hand to get the hangers off. Although I think it is remotely possible, I have never been able to get the stock exhaust out without removing the rear lower tie bar. You will need a 10 mm socket and 14 mm socket for this. When you reinstall it, you should use a torque wrench on the 14mm bolts. I don't remember the torque spec off hand, but I think it's around 40-50 lb-ft. Just make the 10mm bolts snug enough that they wont come loose - they aren't load bearing and they're small, so if you try to tighten them too much you'll just strip out the threads.

I recommend you use anti-seize on just about every bolt of the car, but ESPECIALLY on the cat bolts. The heat from the exhaust usually makes these little bastards seize up BAD. When you reinstall them, give them a good helping of anti-seize and just tighten them to be snug/tight, but not so tight you are straining to tighten it. You wont be able to get a torque wrench in there, so like a blind man in an orgy, you're just going to have to feel your way through this one.

Hey, I should add this to the how-to section of my site! Can someone look up the torque spec for the lower tie bar for me???

CoralDoc

Oh, here's another tip - spray silicone lubricant where the metal exhaust supports slide into the rubber exhaust hangers. It makes removal and replacement a lot easier. I found it easiest to leave the rubber hangers on the metal supports attached to the car and wiggle the supports attached to the exhaust sytem out of the hanger.