Installed colder plugs and getting worse gas milage?
#1
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Installed colder plugs and getting worse gas milage?
Running NA with Mugen headers/TB/JR filter/Mingster CAI
Installed Denzo 24's and I think my gas milage has dropped. Is this possible? I will be pulling the plugs to see if they fowled over time. Just currious if its a possible answer or is my foot just getting heavier?
Oh yea.........I also gapped them above the .44 but below the .50.
I appreciate your answers.
Installed Denzo 24's and I think my gas milage has dropped. Is this possible? I will be pulling the plugs to see if they fowled over time. Just currious if its a possible answer or is my foot just getting heavier?
Oh yea.........I also gapped them above the .44 but below the .50.
I appreciate your answers.
#2
The colder plug is not really needed for the street IMO, but the heat range by itself should not affect your mileage unless a plug fouled and you would know that 'cause it would run crappy. It could be that it is running less well because the gap is too big (I would say .45 should be max) or maybe you are just driving how and where your mileage is lower.
#3
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Originally posted by cdelena
The colder plug is not really needed for the street IMO, but the heat range by itself should not affect your mileage unless a plug fouled and you would know that 'cause it would run crappy. It could be that it is running less well because the gap is too big (I would say .45 should be max) or maybe you are just driving how and where your mileage is lower.
The colder plug is not really needed for the street IMO, but the heat range by itself should not affect your mileage unless a plug fouled and you would know that 'cause it would run crappy. It could be that it is running less well because the gap is too big (I would say .45 should be max) or maybe you are just driving how and where your mileage is lower.
I guess I really don't understand the whole colder thing. Just went on a recomendation. I am definitly not driving 65 on the highway for hours at a clip. More like zipping around town........so yea its probably the driving.
So in short if my plugs are fine(not fouled) I should re-gap them to .XXX what specs? Many thanks. Plus I can re-torque them to 18fp.
#4
Gap and heat range are not related.
Gap simply determines how wide a distance the spark must jump when the plug is fired. The ignition system and plug limit the maximum. The recommended gap (.40 ? I don't have a reference here) is usually the maximum for reliable performance for the ignition system over the life of the plug. Some plugs support a little larger gap but too large can result in a weak or intermittent spark.
Heat range refers to the ceramic configuration designed to transfer heat away from the plug tip. Too hot and detonation can occur, too cold and the plug can foul more easily. The 22's are the recommended plugs, with the 24's for heavy loads. I don't know of any problems with either.
Re-gapping the plugs to .40 to .44 and retorquing the plugs is probably a good idea but may not change your mileage.
Gap simply determines how wide a distance the spark must jump when the plug is fired. The ignition system and plug limit the maximum. The recommended gap (.40 ? I don't have a reference here) is usually the maximum for reliable performance for the ignition system over the life of the plug. Some plugs support a little larger gap but too large can result in a weak or intermittent spark.
Heat range refers to the ceramic configuration designed to transfer heat away from the plug tip. Too hot and detonation can occur, too cold and the plug can foul more easily. The 22's are the recommended plugs, with the 24's for heavy loads. I don't know of any problems with either.
Re-gapping the plugs to .40 to .44 and retorquing the plugs is probably a good idea but may not change your mileage.
#5
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Originally posted by cdelena
Gap and heat range are not related.
Gap simply determines how wide a distance the spark must jump when the plug is fired. The ignition system and plug limit the maximum. The recommended gap (.40 ? I don't have a reference here) is usually the maximum for reliable performance for the ignition system over the life of the plug. Some plugs support a little larger gap but too large can result in a weak or intermittent spark.
Heat range refers to the ceramic configuration designed to transfer heat away from the plug tip. Too hot and detonation can occur, too cold and the plug can foul more easily. The 22's are the recommended plugs, with the 24's for heavy loads. I don't know of any problems with either.
Re-gapping the plugs to .40 to .44 and retorquing the plugs is probably a good idea but may not change your mileage.
Gap and heat range are not related.
Gap simply determines how wide a distance the spark must jump when the plug is fired. The ignition system and plug limit the maximum. The recommended gap (.40 ? I don't have a reference here) is usually the maximum for reliable performance for the ignition system over the life of the plug. Some plugs support a little larger gap but too large can result in a weak or intermittent spark.
Heat range refers to the ceramic configuration designed to transfer heat away from the plug tip. Too hot and detonation can occur, too cold and the plug can foul more easily. The 22's are the recommended plugs, with the 24's for heavy loads. I don't know of any problems with either.
Re-gapping the plugs to .40 to .44 and retorquing the plugs is probably a good idea but may not change your mileage.
#7
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Originally posted by cdelena
The spec is .039 to .043 in or 1.0 to 1.1 mm, so .044 is probably fine for the iridium plug.
The spec is .039 to .043 in or 1.0 to 1.1 mm, so .044 is probably fine for the iridium plug.
I took my handy dandy gapper and gapped them so the 0.44 wouldn't fit but the .040 had no resistance. So its somewhere in the middle. When I got the new plugs it said to NOT gap them because of the electrode could/would break. As well as that they were pre-gapped. Well lemme tell you they were so not gapped to .044!!!!!
Long and short...............thanks cdelena! All is well.
***One thing for others to know. The screws that hold down the coils are VERY WEAK. I was very lucky I didn't need a screw out kit. It broke but not totally only torqueing(sp) it down to like 12 fpt. I got new screws which are a much stronger metal.***
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