Install Time/Difficulty
05-15-2009, 05:11 AM
#6
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Location: Peachtree City, GA
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damn you guys work fast! Reminds of my suspension guys who state that even a monkey can do a removal and install in 2 hours. Must be subsimian because my record is 2,75 hours and I've done literally hundreds of these. In fact, factoring in normal breaks, more like an average of 4,5 hours even with all that experience.
Anyway, I just did this for the first time on an S the past weekend. Assuming one is going to remove the underbody shielding (car on jack stands) and then clean all the spilt fluid thoroughly, even the fan switch becomes at least a 1 hour job. Incrementally, removing and more difficult yet, replacing the thermostat is surely another hour - it's just a real f'ing bitch. Upon completion of the parts install one has to bleed the system and there will be lots of coolant lost believe me, another hour. Frankly, may I strongly suggest purging and refilling the entire system? One may as well for all the coolant you are going to lose! I can't imagine, even doing it a second time, getting out from the job in under 3 hours.
Some tips:
1. Flush all the coolant - this way you will be prepared to catch it all in a basin versus lying to yourself that the task can be performed ad hoc without an utter mess everywhere - 2 gallons Honda or other coolant - use a bottle of Water Wetter too
2. Get at least enough of the pop fasteners to replace all those securing the shields under the motor, virtually every one will break as you remove it and those surviving will be questionable as to their longevity
3. Use an 18mm copper, rubber or plastic crush gasket for the fan switch and wrap it in teflon tape near the gasket to prevent leaks
4. Locate some Wurth HHS spray as it will help keep the T Stat from falling out of place as the cover is screwed on yet not screw up the rubber seal nor clog the mechanism
5. Have a 10mm 0,25" socket with VARIOUS lengths of extension to reach the T Stat - found various combos of 1", 3" and 6" worked well. A nice to have tool for this purpose is a twist ratchet if you can locate one - may also want a swivel adaptor although I decided to forego it.
6. Keep the front end of the car on jackstands during the bleeding process as it helps tremendously - and expect this to take much much longer than is reasonable - mine took about 0,5 hours to really stop burping - have rags avaialble for this! Be sure to check both hoses for heat as this is occurring.
Anyway, I just did this for the first time on an S the past weekend. Assuming one is going to remove the underbody shielding (car on jack stands) and then clean all the spilt fluid thoroughly, even the fan switch becomes at least a 1 hour job. Incrementally, removing and more difficult yet, replacing the thermostat is surely another hour - it's just a real f'ing bitch. Upon completion of the parts install one has to bleed the system and there will be lots of coolant lost believe me, another hour. Frankly, may I strongly suggest purging and refilling the entire system? One may as well for all the coolant you are going to lose! I can't imagine, even doing it a second time, getting out from the job in under 3 hours.
Some tips:
1. Flush all the coolant - this way you will be prepared to catch it all in a basin versus lying to yourself that the task can be performed ad hoc without an utter mess everywhere - 2 gallons Honda or other coolant - use a bottle of Water Wetter too
2. Get at least enough of the pop fasteners to replace all those securing the shields under the motor, virtually every one will break as you remove it and those surviving will be questionable as to their longevity
3. Use an 18mm copper, rubber or plastic crush gasket for the fan switch and wrap it in teflon tape near the gasket to prevent leaks
4. Locate some Wurth HHS spray as it will help keep the T Stat from falling out of place as the cover is screwed on yet not screw up the rubber seal nor clog the mechanism
5. Have a 10mm 0,25" socket with VARIOUS lengths of extension to reach the T Stat - found various combos of 1", 3" and 6" worked well. A nice to have tool for this purpose is a twist ratchet if you can locate one - may also want a swivel adaptor although I decided to forego it.
6. Keep the front end of the car on jackstands during the bleeding process as it helps tremendously - and expect this to take much much longer than is reasonable - mine took about 0,5 hours to really stop burping - have rags avaialble for this! Be sure to check both hoses for heat as this is occurring.
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