Inspection, compression & leak-down done today. Bad results. Your opinions?
11-06-2015, 05:09 PM
#61
11-06-2015, 08:50 PM
#62
Thread Starter
on technique ... 
on highly possible low compression on Cyl1 
11-07-2015, 06:48 AM
#63
Adjust the valves to proper cold tolerances. Report back with results.
Good luck!
Good luck!
11-10-2015, 10:51 AM
#64
Thread Starter
Attempted to do a compression check with a Poop Boys rental unit. 1st cylinder, it got stuck. I didn’t even put it on there tight - just hand-tight and 7-9ftlbs by my “hand feel” estimate. Looked online for tips to get it out and there were a couple good ones - eg: screw out while it’s still compressed, jam a screw driver in there, loctite on adapter, screw extractor, etc.
I tried the “screw out while it’s still compressed” method first. And, it came out. But only the tube came out, leaving the screw/adapter metal end stuck in the head. A bit freaked out..I then tried looking for needle nose pliers or a screwdriver that I can maybe jam into the little hole; but none of mine were long enough while at the same time having a small/skinny enough tip. Then I ran into my torx bits while hunting for something and they looked to be the right size (and also able to be put on a socket extension for length).
I used a T10 on the end of my extension and slightly tapped/jammed it into the little hole with a hammer (though a T15 would work too..but it would be much tighter and more hammer action needed. It came out with ease (of course…since it was only on there lightly hand tight). The T10 worked perfectly!
Whew!
So…if anyone here ever gets one of these pep boys or autozone rental compression testers breaking on you..try a T10 or T15 torx bit
Anyways… The only readings I got were for cyl1 (190 psi, 4 times) ..which is almost pointless/useless anyhow, because I can’t even base/compare it to the other 3 cylinders for consistency. But, even then, 190 psi is a bit low and has me concerned.
I might have a shop do another compression check and also another leak-down..might as well do a leak-down too, if I end up going to a shop anyways. But, on the other hand, I think I should just save money and take my last inspection results word for it too.
I tried the “screw out while it’s still compressed” method first. And, it came out. But only the tube came out, leaving the screw/adapter metal end stuck in the head. A bit freaked out..I then tried looking for needle nose pliers or a screwdriver that I can maybe jam into the little hole; but none of mine were long enough while at the same time having a small/skinny enough tip. Then I ran into my torx bits while hunting for something and they looked to be the right size (and also able to be put on a socket extension for length).
I used a T10 on the end of my extension and slightly tapped/jammed it into the little hole with a hammer (though a T15 would work too..but it would be much tighter and more hammer action needed. It came out with ease (of course…since it was only on there lightly hand tight). The T10 worked perfectly!
Whew!
So…if anyone here ever gets one of these pep boys or autozone rental compression testers breaking on you..try a T10 or T15 torx bit
Anyways… The only readings I got were for cyl1 (190 psi, 4 times) ..which is almost pointless/useless anyhow, because I can’t even base/compare it to the other 3 cylinders for consistency. But, even then, 190 psi is a bit low and has me concerned.
I might have a shop do another compression check and also another leak-down..might as well do a leak-down too, if I end up going to a shop anyways. But, on the other hand, I think I should just save money and take my last inspection results word for it too.
11-15-2015, 08:31 AM
#65
Thread Starter
Just curious....can carbon build-up cause lower compression numbers and higher leak-down % numbers? Wouldn't carbon build-up on the intake valves and valve seats cause an imperfect valve seating?
When I did the valve-adj, I remember looking down the spark plug holes with a flashlight, and saw that there was a lot of carbon build-up on the piston tops..so maybe there's a lot of carbon build-up on the intake valves/seats too?
I am currently running a tankful with a bottle of Techron in it (hopefully it can clean some carbon build-up on the valves/seats ..but idk if it really works or if it's just some type of snake-oil sht). Hope it's effective on carbon deposits on the valves/seats. Might do another compression check afterwards to see if it helped.
When I did the valve-adj, I remember looking down the spark plug holes with a flashlight, and saw that there was a lot of carbon build-up on the piston tops..so maybe there's a lot of carbon build-up on the intake valves/seats too?
I am currently running a tankful with a bottle of Techron in it (hopefully it can clean some carbon build-up on the valves/seats ..but idk if it really works or if it's just some type of snake-oil sht). Hope it's effective on carbon deposits on the valves/seats. Might do another compression check afterwards to see if it helped.
11-15-2015, 01:30 PM
#66
Originally Posted by Jah2000' timestamp='1446420225' post='23792113
He actually told me it was a waste of money to do a valve-adjustment before anything else performed, because it most likely wouldn't help (ie: before installing the advised timing-gear, or pulling the head to get new valves (which we didn't get into, because he knew I had a very limited/tight budget). So, that's pretty much why I didn't get the valve-adjustment then-and-there - it wasn't advised/recommended to be done.
It affects all aspects of the engine, the way it runs and idles, its compression, it's power balance, it's HP output, it's health, it's noise level, and it's longevity.
You don't pull the head until you have diagnosed beyond doubt what you are going to replace.
You definitely don't need new valves at this point, because a proper diagnosis was not followed to determine their condition.
This also applies to all other Honda engines. From little L series to J V6s. BTDT too many times on J and K engines lately.
11-15-2015, 02:17 PM
#67
If anything, carbon deposits are going to raise compression. It will take up combustion space. Carbon wont get a chance to build up on the seats themselves.
I found the same thing when I did my plugs (@∼100k miles). I used water injected at pcv hose to steam clean pistons. Worked a charm.
I attached a thin hose to pcv vacuum hose, and used forceps to further limit water. Placed hose in bucket of water.
With engine fully warm, started motor, forceps fully closing off hose, placed hose in water. Carefully, slowly opened hose. Gotta be real careful here not to hydrolock motor. But done right, it does a very good job cleaning up carbon.
Sent from my SM-G920P using IB AutoGroup
I found the same thing when I did my plugs (@∼100k miles). I used water injected at pcv hose to steam clean pistons. Worked a charm.
I attached a thin hose to pcv vacuum hose, and used forceps to further limit water. Placed hose in bucket of water.
With engine fully warm, started motor, forceps fully closing off hose, placed hose in water. Carefully, slowly opened hose. Gotta be real careful here not to hydrolock motor. But done right, it does a very good job cleaning up carbon.
Sent from my SM-G920P using IB AutoGroup
11-16-2015, 02:14 PM
#69
Moderator
You are getting way off track. A cheap comp tester can read 190 where another could read higher.
Get a valid compression test done, all four cylinders. Comparison is key.
The next tester you get, wrap the entire lower portion with electrical tape so it can't spin within itself and come apart.
Get a valid compression test done, all four cylinders. Comparison is key.
The next tester you get, wrap the entire lower portion with electrical tape so it can't spin within itself and come apart.
11-16-2015, 04:37 PM
#70
Thread Starter
No prob bud. Even with the not-so-perfect compression numbers I was told, I'm actually quite happy with it. After all, it runs very strong, smooth and quiet (all the cylinder combustions sound similar and consistent with each other...especially after the valve-adjustment). The only thing really "wrong" with it anyways, are the "numbers." Let's say this was my previous car, a Tacoma. I never had it compression checked because I didn't really care about the numbers; but, I was perfectly content with it and it ran like a champ. Same with this car (kinda..but maybe not since it's a high rev engine lol) - if I never got those compression number results, I'd honestly be perfectly happy with it, since it runs good.