Jah2000

After he told me my compression results, I said, "Ah, yeah. Cyl1 doesn't look good because it isn't consistent at all with the rest"
He said, "No, that doesn't really matter and is false. Don't listen to the internet. What matters most is how close cyl1 is to being very bad and very close to being below 200psi. A healthy motor should be well over 200, around 230-240."

I (as well as most here I assume) totally agree with him that higher numbers around 230-240 are ideal and always wanted. But, I thought it was a little odd how he shot down the "importance of consistency" rather quickly.

Habitforming

Even the factory service manual has a spec on consistency (10% I think?). Surely the people that designed and built the car know what they're doing

LeonV

Sounds like one of those guys that's really good at talking but doesn't actually know what he's talking about...

Jah2000

I know whatcha mean. I wasn't expecting what I experienced at all; and was honestly a little disappointed (especially since so many here in the S2ki forums actually recommend and refer others to them - so I was expecting better) ..it's a bit difficult to follow through with any service from them (or even listen to their advice now), when the things I heard from him are almost the total opposite of the things I have learned for the past 23+ years of being into cars. The conversation felt a bit one-sided, disconnected, stubborn (shooting down what ever I said) and preach'y too; with an underlying/hidden motive (selling parts), with no concern of what I said, nor my intentions with the car, nor anything on my end honestly. If I had to describe the entire experience in one word, it would be - Disconnected. Honestly wish I went to a regular "non-tuner" shop with certified mechanics for my inspection instead (one of the many recommended within the S2k and NSX communities).

My aforesaid comments aren't intended to bag on them nor talk crap at all - it's just my honest experience. I still think the inspection was pretty decent (especially concerning the compression issues), as it focused on the main/important components of the car - the engine and drivetrain. But, I just didn't like the underlying sales pitches for their products, the false information I received (which breaks trust for a customer) nor a disconnected feeling from whatever I said/wanted for my car. But, I admit, I have very high-standards and I am cut-throat. Oh well, it's in the past. To be fair, I still think their products and "brand" are interesting and attractive - their timing gear, nice cf hardtop, oem clutch kit, etc., etc. They look good and I'd love to maybe get them someday.


With that out of the way and over with... I ordered a new torque wrench, extra stands and a bunch of other little tools and parts yesterday. Once I receive them, I'll update my results. Just hoping there is nothing wrong with my engine.

Jah2000

I just checked the current valve-lash. Here it is. Most of them look pretty off spec. Let me know whatcha think and if it relates to my bad compression in Cyl 1.

Billman250

There is a possibility for burnt exhaust valves on cylinder one and two, if the engine spent enough time under load (vtec).

It is also very possible no damage has been sustained at all.

A proper leakdown will pinpoint it beyond doubt.

Have you run a compression test?

If the car is 06-09, bring the exhaust out to .011.

For those familiar, 0 drag on the .010.

s2000Junky

Overall the Exhaust side is a bit tight esp 1&2, but as far as anything waving a red flag causing low comp on cylinder 1, no.

Billman250

To add to s2000junky's above comment, the current settings will not affect the compression TEST at all (high rpm running compression will improve), neither will the adjustment. The adjustment will help stop any valve torching from starting, or continuing.

However the compression could be affected by a burnt valve if the engine was run at those numbers for a prolonged period.

Jah2000

The previous owner said he got a valve adj in late 2014 or early 2015..so I’m not sure how long it’s been outta whack, or if it was out of spec beforehand, or if it had sustained enough time with tight valves enough to cause burning over time.

I will run a compression test after the valve adjustment. It shoulda been done already…but the dumb UPS driver delivered my new torque wrench to the wrong house (it was supposed to come today..smh). I called them, it was a “mis-delivery” and the driver is trying to pick it up at the wrong house now. I don’t think I’ve ever had a “mis-delivery” yet, lol.

It’s a MY03. I am setting it for .008 intake and .010 exh.

My technique is “just enough or slight” drag on the correct gauge, “no drag” on the gauge 1-step lower. And, “very hard to get in” or “a lot of force to get it” or “doesn’t go in” or “very very tight and sticky/skippy friction and drag” for the gauge 1-step higher.

So far it doesn’t sound good then … I guess we’ll see when I re-do the compression test, after I finish the valve adj.. After what you guys have said, I expect Cyl1 to be the same and still much lower than the rest, unfortunately (not to mention the 20% leak in Cyl1 from the inspection)

Billman250

Spot on