Inspection, compression & leak-down done today. Bad results. Your opinions?
11-02-2015, 11:34 AM
#42
Thread Starter
I'll check that too. Thanks.
11-02-2015, 11:38 AM
#43
11-02-2015, 11:38 AM
#44
Thread Starter
Billman.. is there a revised torque spec for the locknuts, or is it still the same at 14lbft?
11-02-2015, 11:40 AM
#45
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Jah2000' timestamp='1446496485' post='23792950
I'll check that too. Thanks.
11-02-2015, 12:07 PM
#46
Decided to just do the valve adjustment myself (as per Billman's encouragement and recommendation to me) and save $240. I will do this once I receive my new torque wrench (getting a CDI wrench) and update my post with its' current valve-lash spec (per 16 valves) to see how off it really is from spec, as well get new compression check readings. Big advantage of DiY is I get to see with my own 2 eyes how off the valve-lash really is.
I've done many valve adjustments during the '90s, maybe a hundred times or so, on my own cars as well as many of my family's and friends' various Honda cars. But, I haven't done it in over 15 years; so, obviously, my mechanic's confidence is a little low and my "finger-feel" might not be as good as before. But, the sooner I start wrenching again, the better, in regards to re-gaining mechanic's confidence again. I look forward to doing this soon, once I receive my new wrench.
I needed to get a new torque wrench asap anyways ..so I can finally work on the rest of my car too (oil, fluids, brakes, wheels, future mods, etc.). Might as well get a new torque wrench today/asap, and then do the valve-adjustment myself once I receive it (and save $240 to boot).
Thanks a bunch for all your insight Billman. You've been a big help.
Btw…anyone have recommendations for an inexpensive, but decent/good quality, compression checker?
I've done many valve adjustments during the '90s, maybe a hundred times or so, on my own cars as well as many of my family's and friends' various Honda cars. But, I haven't done it in over 15 years; so, obviously, my mechanic's confidence is a little low and my "finger-feel" might not be as good as before. But, the sooner I start wrenching again, the better, in regards to re-gaining mechanic's confidence again. I look forward to doing this soon, once I receive my new wrench.
I needed to get a new torque wrench asap anyways ..so I can finally work on the rest of my car too (oil, fluids, brakes, wheels, future mods, etc.). Might as well get a new torque wrench today/asap, and then do the valve-adjustment myself once I receive it (and save $240 to boot).
Thanks a bunch for all your insight Billman. You've been a big help.
Btw…anyone have recommendations for an inexpensive, but decent/good quality, compression checker?
11-02-2015, 12:39 PM
#47
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If I were in your position, I'd just buy the retainers and cotters and expect to replace them. I think they were about $60 from Majestic. IIRC the ap2 retainers look different so you can tell if they've been replaced by a previous owner. If they haven't, just replace them. As bad as mine were, I still wasn't able to tell they were bad by looking at the tops.
11-02-2015, 01:14 PM
#48
Jah2000. I too have met Alex and think he is a smooth talker. The impression that I got from him is that he does things all or nothing in regards to the work that he does and is quite pushy with regards to his products.
I have the Exedy replacement clutch myself. It works OK, has buzz, and will probably prematurely fail... but that does not warrant a replacement right now. You should wait until it fails. I find it difficult that he discovered a real problem without a test drive.
I have the Exedy replacement clutch myself. It works OK, has buzz, and will probably prematurely fail... but that does not warrant a replacement right now. You should wait until it fails. I find it difficult that he discovered a real problem without a test drive.
11-02-2015, 01:15 PM
#49
Whether you buy a Snap-On comp tester or a cheap one, the difference in numbers will be the same (don't concentrate on actual numbers, but look for consistency)
One gauge may say 240-240-230-200. one may say 210-210-200-170. The numbers are different gauge to gauge, but the differences between each other is constant.
Compression prep:
-Engine full operating temp, run test right after engine shut down
-all spark plugs out
-throttle wide open
-injectors unplugged
-crank each cylinder the same amount (5-7 needle pulses on the gauge)
-do cylinders 1,2,3,4,1 (doing number one again and getting same result will negate any progressive test losses due to anything, cranking speed, etc, mentioned above by LeonV)
One gauge may say 240-240-230-200. one may say 210-210-200-170. The numbers are different gauge to gauge, but the differences between each other is constant.
Compression prep:
-Engine full operating temp, run test right after engine shut down
-all spark plugs out
-throttle wide open
-injectors unplugged
-crank each cylinder the same amount (5-7 needle pulses on the gauge)
-do cylinders 1,2,3,4,1 (doing number one again and getting same result will negate any progressive test losses due to anything, cranking speed, etc, mentioned above by LeonV)
11-02-2015, 03:39 PM
#50
Thread Starter
Yeah, I agree. Like I said earlier - (aside from pushing his products) he probably just wants all the very best products for his customers perhaps. But, in many cases, it's just not the best route in terms of spending money wisely with a conscientious budget on parts that are truly needed more so here&now. Of course you can cut to the chase and dump a couple grand on brand-new-everything and mods galore, even when it isn't close to critical nor faulty yet; but, not everyone wants to do that nor drop loads of cash on things that aren't priority.