Inspection, compression & leak-down done today. Bad results. Your opinions?
11-01-2015, 06:34 PM
#11
Thread Starter
I'm also worried about my clutch, since that's +$1k job. It already has a brand new Exedy clutch, installed less than a month/150 miles ago. But he said there was something wrong with the engagement (either clutch and/or fork), it would eventually fail soon (within 6 months to a year) and not go into gear when it would fail. He advised me to might-as-well get a new clutch/flywheel, since the labor to check the current clutch and fork would end up costing me the same as just getting a new clutch (their own clutch and flywheel kit was recommended).
11-01-2015, 06:40 PM
#12
Registered User
I'm also worried about my clutch, since that's +$1k job. It already has a brand new Exedy clutch, installed less than a month/150 miles ago. But he said there was something wrong with the engagement (either clutch and/or fork), it would eventually fail soon (within 6 months to a year) and not go into gear when it would fail. He advised me to might-as-well get a new clutch/flywheel, since the labor to check the current clutch and fork would end up costing me the same as just getting a new clutch (their own clutch and flywheel kit was recommended).
Also, we need more information on the symptoms you're seeing. Like I said in my first post, if the ONLY issue is that it's chattery then you need to put more break-in miles on it. Where is the engagement point in the pedal's travel? Is it difficult to shift into gears? The more info the better.
11-01-2015, 06:41 PM
#13
Thread Starter
And to add, if you get another compression check done, make sure they go back to the first cylinder again as a double-check. I always do this to eliminate battery voltage issues, etc.
We only see one side of the story here and things can get lost in translation but if the PO's account of the situation is accurate, I would not go back to that shop.
We only see one side of the story here and things can get lost in translation but if the PO's account of the situation is accurate, I would not go back to that shop.
There is no reason for me to make up anything nor lie. I am here for a reason..the exact same reason everyone else is here - to get/share help in fixing, maintaining and taking care of our cars.
11-01-2015, 06:43 PM
#14
I'm also worried about my clutch, since that's +$1k job. It already has a brand new Exedy clutch, installed less than a month/150 miles ago. But he said there was something wrong with the engagement (either clutch and/or fork), it would eventually fail soon (within 6 months to a year) and not go into gear when it would fail. He advised me to might-as-well get a new clutch/flywheel, since the labor to check the current clutch and fork would end up costing me the same as just getting a new clutch (their own clutch and flywheel kit was recommended).
11-01-2015, 06:45 PM
#15
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Jah2000' timestamp='1446420225' post='23792113
He actually told me it was a waste of money to do a valve-adjustment before anything else performed, because it most likely wouldn't help (ie: before installing the advised timing-gear, or pulling the head to get new valves (which we didn't get into, because he knew I had a very limited/tight budget). So, that's pretty much why I didn't get the valve-adjustment then-and-there - it wasn't advised/recommended to be done.
Hopefully I'm just reading this wrong, but to advocate pulling the head in lieu of a valve adjustment is...concerning. Then the showing how out-of-spec the valves are...which means 95% of the valve adjustment process was done and they didn't want to adjust it right quick?
11-01-2015, 06:49 PM
#16
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Jah2000' timestamp='1446435267' post='23792211
I'm also worried about my clutch, since that's +$1k job. It already has a brand new Exedy clutch, installed less than a month/150 miles ago. But he said there was something wrong with the engagement (either clutch and/or fork), it would eventually fail soon (within 6 months to a year) and not go into gear when it would fail. He advised me to might-as-well get a new clutch/flywheel, since the labor to check the current clutch and fork would end up costing me the same as just getting a new clutch (their own clutch and flywheel kit was recommended).
It actually feels fine, just a little grabby. It's def not slipping. I think I just need someone else to check it out, drive it and tell me if there is actually anything wrong with it. But imo, I don't really see anything wrong with it.
11-01-2015, 06:53 PM
#17
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Jah2000' timestamp='1446435267' post='23792211
I'm also worried about my clutch, since that's +$1k job. It already has a brand new Exedy clutch, installed less than a month/150 miles ago. But he said there was something wrong with the engagement (either clutch and/or fork), it would eventually fail soon (within 6 months to a year) and not go into gear when it would fail. He advised me to might-as-well get a new clutch/flywheel, since the labor to check the current clutch and fork would end up costing me the same as just getting a new clutch (their own clutch and flywheel kit was recommended).
Also, we need more information on the symptoms you're seeing. Like I said in my first post, if the ONLY issue is that it's chattery then you need to put more break-in miles on it. Where is the engagement point in the pedal's travel? Is it difficult to shift into gears? The more info the better.
He didn't test-drive it. Just drove it 5-10 secs from parking lot to garage. He said it was slipping a little bit, engaging weird and the fork might be bad or damaged (maybe a clutch disc spring or pressure plate issue...it is unknown). Kinda vague..basically said the only way to find out was to pull off the tranny and that's obviously going to be the same labor rate as a new clutch install.
11-01-2015, 07:01 PM
#18
Thread Starter
Engagement pedal point is a bit higher than what I was used to in the distant past. But, very very similar pedal height to brand new FRS's I've test-driven at the dealership (3x I've test driven them). I'm used to it's height now.
Shifting b/n gears is easy and normal. Love this shifter! S2k shifter really is magical isn't it?
Not slipping. It's actually quite grippy. PP feels a tad heavier, but still similar to stock cars. Yeah, only problem I am noticing is a grabby 1st gear take-off engagement..don't get me wrong..it's not Super grabby to the point of shaking everything or racecar grabby...just slightly grabby. It's actually fine imo.
Shifting b/n gears is easy and normal. Love this shifter! S2k shifter really is magical isn't it?
Not slipping. It's actually quite grippy. PP feels a tad heavier, but still similar to stock cars. Yeah, only problem I am noticing is a grabby 1st gear take-off engagement..don't get me wrong..it's not Super grabby to the point of shaking everything or racecar grabby...just slightly grabby. It's actually fine imo.
11-01-2015, 07:51 PM
#19
Originally Posted by LeonV' timestamp='1446435264' post='23792210
And to add, if you get another compression check done, make sure they go back to the first cylinder again as a double-check. I always do this to eliminate battery voltage issues, etc.
We only see one side of the story here and things can get lost in translation but if the PO's account of the situation is accurate, I would not go back to that shop.
We only see one side of the story here and things can get lost in translation but if the PO's account of the situation is accurate, I would not go back to that shop.
There is no reason for me to make up anything nor lie. I am here for a reason..the exact same reason everyone else is here - to get/share help in fixing, maintaining and taking care of our cars.
If I were in your shoes, and I fully believed I was recounting things correctly, I would seriously consider using a different shop in the future.
11-01-2015, 07:56 PM
#20
I'm also worried about my clutch, since that's +$1k job. It already has a brand new Exedy clutch, installed less than a month/150 miles ago. But he said there was something wrong with the engagement (either clutch and/or fork), it would eventually fail soon (within 6 months to a year) and not go into gear when it would fail. He advised me to might-as-well get a new clutch/flywheel, since the labor to check the current clutch and fork would end up costing me the same as just getting a new clutch (their own clutch and flywheel kit was recommended).
Not a single part of the Honda OEM clutch for the s2000 is made by Exedy