Billman250

There is nothing electrical that can allow the engine RPMs to increase over road speed. The only culprit is the clutch.

your codes are not related to this, you have two different issues.

IheartOEM

^^^ This guy knows....

vbb

Thanks for the reply. I was beginning to suspect the two were unrelated, but I thought it was a weird coicidence that both problems showed up at almost the exact same time.

So what are the signs of a failing, but not completely failed clutch? As I stated before, it is working fine now... I've probably gone 30 or 40 trouble free miles since the last incident. Of course I haven't done any hard driving in that period of time... but I've taken it up to 6K a few times just to test it out, and I've had no problems. I don't want to drop the $$$ on a clutch install if it really isn't the issue. The only clue that I've ever had that my clutch might be bad is that this is my 2nd S2000 and on my first, I remember the engagement point being a lot lower. Other than that issue, I've never had any signs of a blown or failing clutch that I can think of.

Just so it is clear, the first time I had this problem, it was immediately after my tuning session, where the tuner probably did 5 or 6 WOT pulls on my car on the dyno. Honestly, I think that's the hardest the car has been "driven" in the two years that I've had it. The second and last time I had the problem, it was the very next day following the dyno session. The problem hasn't come back since.

Billman250

Sound like the clutch was slipping on the dyno and burnt up.

Run it wide open and put some load on it. It will be obvious if the clutch is no good.

vbb

Now I'm really stumped. I did the "clutch test" that I read about on this forum and several others: put the car in 3rd gear from a stop and slowly let out the clutch. It passed the test (the car stalled out and cut off). I've read that if it is a bad clutch, the car would either continue to run with the clutch out, or it would rev for awhile without cutting off. Neither happened, it just stalled right out. I also spent about 30 minutes driving around tonight on both the highway and streets, doing some WOT pulls in gears 2-5, and I didn't feel evidence of a slipping or failing clutch. In 2nd and 3rd gear especially, the car pulls hard to about 7000rpms (which is how my car is tuned).

I am not saying it isn't the clutch, but these aren't things I would expect with a failing clutch either. I should also mention, I did not experience the "no acceleration" problem again either.

The second thing is my p1121 code is clear and hasn't come back, but the p122 code (TPS voltage) is still there. I cleared it while the car was idling in my garage, and the idle immediately jumped another 100-200 rpms, but the code came right back on after about two seconds, and the idle settled back down a little bit.

VPS_AP1

TPS those 2 codes usually relate when you unplug the throttle position sensor (most likely with the key on) wouldn't worry about them clear the codes just to be sure they stay off just check to see if its unplugged/wires broken b4 doing so. also I would check your clutch fluid if you tested the clutch and everything was fine. maybe something to do with the system like contaminants clogging it for a bit and you broke them free and now it works. maybe do a clutch system fluid bleed.